My friend owns a 2000 Ford F150 where his ABS light always stays on. He thought it was the rear sensor so he replaced that to no avail. I finally got a chance to go over and read his idiot light and it comes up with OPEN circuit on the hyd. pump motor Code C1096.
Anyone have the same problem with the solution to fixing this?

 

Looking at the service CD's diagnostic, they're are a couple of voltage and resistance checks to be made (assuming the DTC is repeatable). If there is no fault found, the instructions call for replacing the EHCU.

Steve

 

The ABS light is on all the time with no effect when trying to reset it.

I did some homework on the net and found that the HCU is located under the black plastic module (ECBM). Hope it is just something electrical if not it looks like it will be very expensive.

Thanks for your help.

 

You cannot reset the ABS light. The ABS computer will reset it when all faults are corrected and it passes ALL internal self-tests. This is by design.

Steve

 

I learn something new everyday.
I appreciate it.

 

I know this is old but does anyone have a wiring diagram of this? C1096 indicates an open circuit.
I have been rejected for my inspection sticker even though the light has been on for 5 years at least. I guess it is a new regulation in NH.

 

It turned out to be the black wire to the pump motor. Once I removed the controller from the top of the pump I saw green copper salts and pulled on the wires and it felt soft. I could squeeze the insulation and found the wire within had corroded. A snip, splice and liquid electrical tape to seal it and my ABS is working again.

 

in refernce to your post about the abs module :

It turned out to be the black wire to the pump motor. Once I removed the controller from the top of the pump I saw green copper salts and pulled on the wires and it felt soft. I could squeeze the insulation and found the wire within had corroded. A snip, splice and liquid electrical tape to seal it and my ABS is working again.


Can I ask you ,where is this motor you speak of?TIA.

 

Just below and behind your air filter housing. Follow the lines down from your master cylinder. Pump motor and valve body is under abs black box.

 

Subscribed as i have a similar issue w/ my light staying on but i have yet to have the code read since no-one has access to a proper scanner.......so i'd like to check all possibilites.

Already checked:
- rear abs sensor
- fuse
- fluid (not that it matters)

 

I have a 2001 F-150 4x4 supercrew cab. The abs light was going on and off intermittently, and now is on solid. Reading the abs codes I found it to be C-1096 and C-1095. I will let you know what I find when I take the four screws off the controller abs module to see if the wiring is ok.

 

Gents,
After looking at the HCU motor leads I found that they had corroded away under the shrink tubing at the motor connection however they looked like they were still connected, I had to use a jack knife to cut away the shrink wrap to see the green copper dust from the broken corroded connection. In my case it was the black lead that had failed. After cleaning the short piece of wire coming out of the HCU motor and cutting back the wire on the plug side to clean wire, I used a 12-10 guage connector to join the motor stub to the cut back wire plug lead in order to give it more support, and soldered both sides. Next I installed new shrink tubing and covered the whole connection with liquid tape.

The C-1096 code cleared itself by the computer after the repair.
Thanks goes to the blogger who mentioned the motor lead problem he had, it is hard to see the corroded leads without a detailed look.
Best Regards,
SPW

 

Glad to help.

 

I'm having issues with my A4wd its almost like it's stuck in 4x4 binding and grinding when turn. Changed the rear speed sensor as that was throwing a code, still doing it. ABS light on and got codes C1095-1096. Could an ABS issue he causing this?? Can hear transfer case working when I select 4hi. Also wondering if there is a way to check actuator motor in hubs????

 

Bumping this for the sake of giving everyone my solution for my abs specific code and now a new prolem which may help others!

Mine turned out to be a broken abs electronic control module!

When removed one of the actuator was broken off completely so i sent it out to be re-built and it was good again.

However now i have another ABS issue and i'm 99% sure it's the actual HCU as there is no abs light on but i get a very slow sinking brake pedal (fade if you will) that makes it slow to brake from speed....it will stop and hold but with a good amount of pressure needed.

So i looked at the HCU and under the hard lines there are 2 rubber plugs and the one that is on the drivers side has a leak so i'm sure the valve is messed up or being blocked by something not allowing it to fully close allowing brake fluid to be by-passed back to the master cylinder.

This is the ECM




This is the actual ABS HCU



Here's a great youtube vid i found that explains it all for anyone out there still with the issue as it's not air in the system nor bad master cylinder as i've re-bled numerous times and it has a new master on it that was bench bled


I will order one of these up asap and will report back

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ford-ABS-Pump-and-Module-1L34-2C346-AA-01-04-F150-/141250505428?fits=Model%3AF-150#ht_1372wt_1096
Specifically to answer your question though you can remove the TC actuator and manually move the TC from 4WD to 2WD there is a square or hex drive that connects to the electronic shift actuator it's really easy to get to under the truck....