Please Help... Quick Questions
Please Help... Quick Questions
Hello,
I know from getting two free estimates that my front wheel bearings need to get replaced. I also know that i need to replace my rotors and my brake pads.
my main reason for posting this is because i want to know how hard it would be to replace these items by myself. Now know that i have basic mechanical knowledge and that i dont mind a so called "learning expeirience". I dont really have any guides to go by and would really lke some help from the guys here.. You guys have helped me before and i would really appreciate some help.
The reason for this post is because my local shops want around 300 - 350 just for the labor. This seems outrageous to me.
If there is anyone in southern cali that would be willing to help i would pay cash, beer, whatever you need. Thanks a ton guys.
Deviant
I know from getting two free estimates that my front wheel bearings need to get replaced. I also know that i need to replace my rotors and my brake pads.
my main reason for posting this is because i want to know how hard it would be to replace these items by myself. Now know that i have basic mechanical knowledge and that i dont mind a so called "learning expeirience". I dont really have any guides to go by and would really lke some help from the guys here.. You guys have helped me before and i would really appreciate some help.
The reason for this post is because my local shops want around 300 - 350 just for the labor. This seems outrageous to me.
If there is anyone in southern cali that would be willing to help i would pay cash, beer, whatever you need. Thanks a ton guys.
Deviant
If you can do the front brakes, replacing the bearings on the front end is only a cotter pin, retainer, and nut more involved.
The rears are a bit more involved with the parking brake drum built into the rotor. Sometimes the shoes wear a ridge around the inside of the drum, and you have to manually adjust the adjuster both when removing the rotor as well as reinstalling it. It works essentially like a standard drum brake, so if you're ever worked on drums, you can do it, no problem.
Personally, I wouldn't pay $350 for it, but I know I can do it.
-Joe
The rears are a bit more involved with the parking brake drum built into the rotor. Sometimes the shoes wear a ridge around the inside of the drum, and you have to manually adjust the adjuster both when removing the rotor as well as reinstalling it. It works essentially like a standard drum brake, so if you're ever worked on drums, you can do it, no problem.
Personally, I wouldn't pay $350 for it, but I know I can do it.
-Joe
should i go out and buy like a manual to look at everything or is that just going to be a waste of money
to me it just seems overwhelming like bleeding the lines and repacking the seals and i mean i know how to bleed the lines i have no idea what it means to rrepack the grease seals.
to me it just seems overwhelming like bleeding the lines and repacking the seals and i mean i know how to bleed the lines i have no idea what it means to rrepack the grease seals.
You don't re-pack the seals, you re-pack the bearings with fresh grease, and replace the inner seal. It's a lot easier to learn if someone shows you how the first time. I have yet to find a manual (Factory, Chilton's, Haynes, or other) that shows the details well. e.g. they all say to remove the cotter pin, retainer, and nut. But, how? Sidecutters grip much better than pliers. They all say to remove the seal. How? With a seal puller. It's a $10 tool at any auto parts store. Re-pack the bearings with fresh grease? There's an art to what I call 'palm-packing', or you can buy a bearing packer from the local AutoZone. It's about a $20-25 tool, and it's messy. What kind of grease? I like synthetic heavy duty wheel bearing grease, but just about any wheel bearing grease from any auto parts store will work fine.
Oh, as for re-tightening it, do it in three steps: 30 ft*lbs, then loosen, then tighten to 14-27 ft*lbs, then loosen, then 14 in*lbs, all while rotating the wheel to make sure the bearings are properly seated. Too tight and they'll burn up. Too loose, and they're wear out and/or wobble.
The hole doesn't line up with the castle nut slot.... now what? Tighten 1/12 of a turn, or loosen 1/12 of a turn?? Should the cotter pin be sideways or front to back?
Like I said, lots of tricks, but not the easiest for a first-timer.
-Joe
Oh, as for re-tightening it, do it in three steps: 30 ft*lbs, then loosen, then tighten to 14-27 ft*lbs, then loosen, then 14 in*lbs, all while rotating the wheel to make sure the bearings are properly seated. Too tight and they'll burn up. Too loose, and they're wear out and/or wobble.
The hole doesn't line up with the castle nut slot.... now what? Tighten 1/12 of a turn, or loosen 1/12 of a turn?? Should the cotter pin be sideways or front to back?
Like I said, lots of tricks, but not the easiest for a first-timer.
-Joe
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well crap... basically my options right now are to pay some shop or to pray that there is someone that i know that knows hwo to do this.
This is a cry to anyone on this forum I WILL PAY FOR HELP (just not 300) bucks
This is a cry to anyone on this forum I WILL PAY FOR HELP (just not 300) bucks
2000 150 xlt rear brakes...
Originally Posted by Deviant
well crap... basically my options right now are to pay some shop or to pray that there is someone that i know that knows hwo to do this.
This is a cry to anyone on this forum I WILL PAY FOR HELP (just not 300) bucks
This is a cry to anyone on this forum I WILL PAY FOR HELP (just not 300) bucks
i tried this today and well it didnt turn out so good
I went ahead and then when i tried to seperate my caliper from my disc it wouldnt budge, at all. i am scared that i a gong to brake something so i think that i am just going to take it into a shop . BTW the ones i tried working on were the front drivers side.
I went ahead and then when i tried to seperate my caliper from my disc it wouldnt budge, at all. i am scared that i a gong to brake something so i think that i am just going to take it into a shop . BTW the ones i tried working on were the front drivers side.


