My long time brake mechanic charged me $30.00 to do a brake flush, brake and front end inspection.My local Ford dealer wants $120.00 just for a brake flush. What does the dealer do to justify the $90.00 difference?

 

What's the difference between a $30.00 brake flush and a $120.00 brake flush?


I know! I know! $90.


My guess (and this is just a guess) is that your mechanic just bleeds them to make sure the air is out, whereas the dealership has a machine that actually replaces nearly all the fluid.

either that, or I need the name and number of your mechanic! $30 for a brake flush is very reasonable.

 

the dealers labor rate is $80 an hour and the book says it take 1.5 hours to do it.
Your mechanic knows he can bleed and flush them in under 30 minute so thats what he charges you.

 

That's why they are called STEALERSHIPS....

 

He also replaced the fluid, although he didn't use the machine the dealer uses.Which brings me to my next question. Is the dealers machine doing a better job than my mechanic who does it by hand? Isn't the end result the same?

 

yes.

 

Its like all other things automated. The machine takes over the humans part of the job, and you have to help pay for the machine and its design team!

 

$90 for hair and make-up

 

Is that a pic of Quintin?

 

I ain't that pretty, and my shirt sez Lincoln-Mercury on it.

Anywho, my best guess is that the $30 joint is probably just refilling the master cylinder with fresh fluid and maybe manually bleeding the system out, while the $120.00 gig uses a pressure bleeder type deal that constantly replaces the old fluid with the new.

 

Beechkid!

 

You start at the rear right caliper and open the bleed valve so fluid flows. When clear fluid flows you stop. Remember to keep the master cylinder resevoir full. Then you do the rear left. Then the front right and finally the left front. You have now replaced all the old brake fluid with new fluid. Ask both your mechanic and dealership how much for doing this service. Don't forget to ask how much they charge for a bottle of brake fluid. A pressure bleeder just makes the job easier because you don't have to constantly monitor the fluid level and the fluid flows faster becasue of the pressure pushing it VS gravity. Both get the job done.

JMC

 

I would like to add to JMC's post one word..well actually two words... MITY-VAC!! Since my truck is a 2001, the compound on the bleed fitting threads is kinda dried up...so I just pop them out and wrap them with Teflon tape (to minimize air leakage from the fitting) pop the Mity Vac on it, and start pumping. Do it in the exact order as JMC states in his post. Remember to keep an eye on the reservoir or get a buddy to do so.

I bleed mine out every year this way. It's almost a habit because that's always been an annual maintenance requirement on my BMW cars and motorcycles.

Good luck.

P.S. there is also a product called "Speed Bleeders" (www.speedbleeder.com) that are basically a bleed fitting with a built in check valve. I use them on my motorcycles with good success.

 

It works. You don't need no stinking machine

May I suggest Valvoline Synpower.

 

I'll second the Mighty Vac route.

This is how I do the brakes on my Kawi's as well. Takes nothing at all to get the fluid replaced, works good if I boil the fluid at an open track day, from getting too carried away. I don't use the Speed Bleeders, not that big of a deal to open the bleeder valve to me, but that is a personal preference thing.