it has brand new battery cables on both sides. just clicks from the firewall relay.. the relay is good, i had a good one and put it on and it still clicks.. am i looking at the starter as the problem or is it the battery? the battery read 12.2 volts when i tested it. i tried to take the starter out, took out 2 bolts, but there seems to be a 3rd? HELP

 

I believe a fully charged battery should read slightlly more than 13 volts. You could have charging/alternator or related problems or a bad starter or wiring

 

No a fully charged battery won't likely read over 13. Usually 12.5 - 12.75. Now after it is started, the alternator should push it to about 14 V.

Battery voltage doesn't tell the whole story, as a bad battery can have proper voltage when not under a load. It could be either so I would start with one or both and have them tested. You might be able to have somebody turn the key and test terminal voltage. If it is still 12.2 I wouldn't necessarily assume it is bad. If it drops below 10 (it will drop all the time due to the starter pull) then you can probably assume a bad battery. Taking them to a parts store for testing will be much more determinative.

 

problem is i can't get the starter out...i took out the stud on the bottom and the bolt on the side, but it feels like there is a bolt on the top. i can't see how i could even take the bolt out!!!

 

from the back side(looking towards the back of the truck) you have bolts in relation to a clock face at 1 o'clock,7 o'clock and 10 o'lock..the one at 1 o'clock is your missing bolt....gather all your extensions 'cause your gonna need them

 

There is a bolt on the top. A deep 13mm socket on a 6" extension will do the trick to brake the bolt free. Once it has started to come out check the clearance between the socket wrench and the motor mount. When it gets tight remove the deep socket and use a normal one. There are 2 positive cables running to the starter. One comes directly from the battery to the starter solenoid ( on the starter ) and the other one goes from the battery to the starter motor solenoid relay switch (on the firewall) and then to the Starter Solenoid. Check all the connections for corrosion. There is also a ground cable going from the battery to one of the starter bolts. It is important to check for corrosion there too.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

If you don't want to do a load test on the battery, just try jumping it. If it starts, then the battery could use a testing. I've had lots of batteries that put out 12 volts, but there is no juice behind the volts to back it up = no start. Any battery retailer should be able to do that for ya. If that checks OK, then I'd move to the starter..

 

My battery went bad in one starting cycle It started three times that morning while I was running around town, no hint of a problem at all. The fourth time I came out and hit the alarm and it sounded weak. I tried inserting the key and turning it, the truck had just enough juice for the alarm to sense the voltage loss and go off. Talk about annoying, lol! One new battery later, and it was fixed. Believe it or not, this was the first time I ever had a battery die that quickly.,,,,98

 

JMC

I always wondered what the three wires were. So I presume the small amp from the battery energizes the solenoid to engage the flywheel gear, and the heavy amp from the relay actually energizes the armature to spin the flywheel?

Also, is there any way to tell which amperage starter I have?

 

9 times out of 10 car batteries give no to very little warning before they are toast, starters on the other hand usually give some warning to their demise.

you are describing the perfect bad battery scenario. The starter is the last place I would look.(though there is always a chance of course) You need to make sure that nothing killed your battery in the first place.

You didn't say how old the battery is. Most modern day lead acid batteries only last 2-4yrs.

 

my battery appears to be the original motorcraft. i put in my optima red top from my mustang, and it did the same.
i got the starter out and took it to autozone to test. it was dead. they wanted 175. for a new one, so i said NOPE. will get it rebuilt tomorrow. thanks for all of your help and ideas!

 

Well, that was simple and quick? I'm glad you figured out what it was. If that's the original motorcraft battery, it's probably close to kicking the bucket as well. Mine's a 98, and the battery died last year.,,,,98

 

Boy I would have bet money it was the battery and not the starter!

Look in your yellow pages for Precision alternator under autoparts. They are the guys whom usually wholesale alternators,starters,half shafts, and rads to the car shops. They will gladly sell to you for the same price with a core swap. Yes everything they sell is re-built but believe me you will have a hard time telling the difference between their stuff and new!

I replaced the 2 from half shafts including inner and outer cv joints on my wife's old Subaru. Every shop I went to wanted between $180-280 each side! not to mention the wanted over a $100 bucks just to re-boot the cv's! I got them both at Precision for $65.00 a piece!

Good luck!

 

mine did the same thing once. got under there to look at the starter and the positive wire had broke off. (@#$^*&$ road salt). bought a new terminal and soldered it on the wire.

 

I should have been clearer in earlier comment. A fully charged battery isone where the specific gravity reaches 1.264 on hydrometer. ( most just indicate a green dot at this point. A fully charged battery in good condition at full charge will read from 12.68 and slightly higher . A 12 volt battery indictaing a reading of 12 Volts - open circuit would mean a partial discharge or possibly a weak battery .