big 4x4,
Mobil 1(synthetic)/ Mobil Drive Clean(conventional). Synthetic or conventional...the choice is yours. I agree with everyone on the Penzoil-leave it in the store. Second choice next to Mobil-Valvoline All-Climate. As for the weight, I don't know anything about the difference between 5W-20 and 5W-30--besides that the 20 is thinner at operating temp. than the 30. The first #(in this case) means that the oil will never be thinner than a "5" weight oil(cold), and not thicker than a "30" weight oil when hot. At least that is what I've read. I would think 5W-30 would be ok, but I am also one of those that says to stick with what the manual says. Me-I would use Mobil 1 5W-30.

Sorry So Long

------------------
1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.

 

What is wrong with Penzoil? Are you talking only synthetic or regular or both? I've been using 5w30 non-synthetic for years. I thought Consumer Reports rated it the best a couple of years age when I switched from Quaker State due to airation problems.

[This message has been edited by MAR (edited 05-01-2001).]

 

OK, I use Mobil One 5W-30 Syn. & a Mobil 1 filter.


Anybody have any experience with Lubrication Engineers motor oil? They make a 5W-30 but I am considering the LE-8800 in the hot summer months. Recently installed a Mag-Hytech rear differential cover and filled it with LE-607 gear lube. Got the oil from Mag-Hytech and the sent me a bunch of info (graphs & charts) on LE oil. The LE 8800 beat the synthetics (i.e., AMSOIL & others in both wear & oxidation tests on the charts.
LE makes a "best oil" claim on their website too. Right now I'm a Mobil 1 user but am wondering if any has any feed back on the LE oil?

------------------
1999 4X4SC, F250 Light Duty, 5.4L (replaced with new 5.4L 04/11/00 due to oil leak)
4R100 also replaced with reman on 02/07/01 due to hard 3-4 downshift.
3.73LS
Gibson Sweptside
K&N
Bilsteins
Flip Chip

 

Ford changed the spec's on oil weight for the 2001 model year and is specifying 5-20 weight oil...

I asked Ford about that right off, as I just bought my new 2001 F150 SC 4x4 3 weeks ago and have 2 cases of 5-30 weight oil in my garage. They said it was for environmental and efficiency concerns, improved mileage, blah, blah blah!

I would use synthetic right off. These motors do not have to break in the way the older ones did. The rings seal very quickly and you will do no harm putting in synthetic with your first change.

I have used Amsoil(was a dealer) and Mobil 1 as well as Castrol, without any problems in past motors. I tow a lot and the added protection is just insurance.

I am not for extending drain intervals however as the "additives" in synthetics break down also, while the base oil is just more stable, it suffers from "shear" over time as well.

 

I, like most of the other knowledgable guys on this site, would HIGHLY recommend Mobil 1 synthetic. It has been around the longest and is PROVEN. Since it is not yet available in 5w20 weight, I would use whatever you like. Just change the oil and filter EVERY 3K. I'm sure there is good reason why most factory Hi-performance cars like the viper and the corvette come from the factory with Mobil 1 in their crankcases. Use what you like, just change it RELIGOUSLY!!!

------------------
2000 F150 Lariat Supercab, Oxford White/parchment,157"WB, 5.4, 4R70W,single fact. CD premium sound, remote keyless entry, full leather, 3.55 LS,SRW, Class 3


Mobil 1 5w30 oil with Motorcraft FL-820s
K&N Filtercharger
Penda Bedliner
Solo Radar Detector

 

Moose-man,

It's obvious that you are a big fan of Mobil 1! Between you and the other members with good comments I'm about to make the switch.

Please let me throw a couple of questions at you:

I have less than 10,000 miles on my truck, should I switch now or wait for higher mileage? I thought I read somewhere that I shouldn't change before 15,000 miles!

How often should I change? I do it whenever I can but always less than 3000 miles.

Can I expect a longer engine life with Mobil 1?

Thanks in advance for the answers . . . !

Bob

------------------
Gots: Gots: 2000 F-150, 4x4, SCab, XLT, Island Blue, Styleside, 157” Wheelbase, 5.4L EFI, 4-Speed Auto O/D, Class III Towing Package; AM/FM/CD; Dark Graphite 40/60 Cloth Seats (F/R); Rear Slider; 4 Wheel ABS; “Ex-Tang” Snapless Tonneau; Ford “Duraliner” Bedliner; “CDA” Paint Saver Pad; “Lund Runners” Truck Steps; “Husky” Splashguards; “Saddleman"Hood Protector; “WeatherTech” WeatherFlectors; 4th Brake Light (again!); “Pilot” Navigator 55 Watt Backup Lights (pair, under hitch); “K&N” FIPK; Lighted “Blue Oval” Logos – grill and tailgate, “Weather Tech” Floor Mats (retired for the summer);

Wants: “Gibson” Dual Sport Truck Cat-Back Exhaust System; “Exotic Wood” Steering Wheel & Dash Kit; “RoadMaster” Active Suspension; Remote Starter; Pilot Driving Lights; “Lund” Backdraft Tailgate Spoiler; “Superchip”…

 

mpocrats, I am using LE oil (8530 = 5w30w)in one of my vehicles. After the first analysis I did it showed that 8530 will not work for extended drain intervals. Everything else was perfect. I had a K&N air filter installed and after the analysis came back, I will NEVER use K&N again. After I use up all the 8530 I will most likely switch to LE 10w30, which is extended drain oil. But during the winter months I will have to switch back to 5w30.
Good luck with your choice oil and give a bit of advice. Do an oil analysis on any oil that you plan on doing extended drains on.

------------------
97 F150 XLT, 5.4, EXTANG,EDELBROCK SHOCKS,
GIBSON SPLIT REAR,
HELLWIG SWAY BAR,
SONY ES-CDX880 HEAD,
SONY ES-XM5046 AMP
BOSTON PRO'S 6.5 FRONT

 

everyone says 5-30 synthetic, I got some 10-30, should I bring it back??? What is the big diff?

------------------
1998 150 SC, Lariat, 5.4, Black with a little silver, 4X4, Stock at this time.

 

swampview Wrote,

I have less than 10,000 miles on my truck, should I switch now or wait for higher mileage? I thought I read somewhere that I shouldn't change before 15,000 miles!
From everything i have read and researched anytime with modern vehicals is ok. Corvettes and porches and 1 other are filled with mobil 1 synthetic at the factory!
So i say go for it!

How often should I change? I do it whenever I can but always less than 3000 miles.
I have read alot of readers have done oil analysis with their oil at apx 3k and report that the oil could have gone much longer.
Personally its just my preference to change it at every 3000 miles. Thats a rule of thumb for me on autos i will never break.

Can I expect a longer engine life with Mobil 1? Honestly i think any oil on the market could get you 100-300k on engines today as long as you treat your vehical well and change the oil and filter to manuals specs! I mainly base my claims off all the research i have done. But the real oil freaks will tell you amsoil is the best oil on the market today. Its just a matter of finding it, price, hassle, etc..
Mobil 1 is cheap the product is great their filters are top notch, in my opinion its simply the best bang for your buck!


------------------
97 F150 Longbed V8 4.6
K&N air filter
K&N FIPK tech MOD & removed elbow silencer
Tires: Yokohama 265/75/16 Geolander AT+
Hyper white xenon bulbs
Bedliner and raven shell
6 disc cd changer
Oil & filter used

Gasoline used

My Truck


[This message has been edited by moose-man (edited 05-02-2001).]

 

reguarding the 5W-20 weight oil, i was just thinking, why is that these manufacturers like Quaker State, Castrol, etc make a "truck" or "4x4" grade oil either regular or synthetic, and it's almost always a 10W-30 or 10W-40? I would bet there are very few if any new vehicles on the market today that recommend these weights in the manual. What i am getting at is, i think if you want to use another weight besides 5W-20, i am almost positive the engine will be absolutely fine.
Tony

------------------
'01 SCrew 4x4 XLT 5.4L

[This message has been edited by tfratzke (edited 05-03-2001).]

 

Indy,
Why do you say that after doing oil analysis you will never use K&N air filters again? Did you have the FIPK or just a "drop-in" replacement?

Just Curious

------------------
1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.

 

Pat, I have a "Drop In" one on my Toyota and had a filter charger on my F150. In 3,500 miles using an K&N on my 2001 Toyota the silicon level had already reached 51ppm. The number should not exceed 10ppm. This is like opening up the oil filler cap and dumping in quart of dirt. If your running a K&N air filter do a simple test. Change your oil and after 3,000 miles do a $15 to $25 oil analysis and see what you silicon level is. I think you'll be suprised.
What I have heard is Amsoil makes a good performance air filter. It is design to have good air flow and also can stop dirt by a washable outside foam filter. I am sticking to factory filters for now until I do more research.
Hope this helps.

------------------
97 F150 XLT, 5.4, EXTANG,EDELBROCK SHOCKS,
GIBSON SPLIT REAR,
HELLWIG SWAY BAR,
SONY ES-CDX880 HEAD,
SONY ES-XM5046 AMP
BOSTON PRO'S 6.5 FRONT

 

To everyone that’s new here or just need a place to review topics about oil. If you do a search on user name Oil Man you can find some good reading. Oil Man and MSPARKS had some good conversation regarding oil. They are the ones who got me doing oil analysis.
The great thing about Oil Analysis is that you find out what’s really happing inside your engine. Think of it this way, you go to a doctor but never have a blood test done. Can you image if no one ever had a blood test done. The population sure would be smaller.
Its time to move to the 21 century and use science instead of a marketing person telling you can go 10k before changing oil.
Here is one of the links that talks about oil and oil analysis. Happy reading


https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/002887.html

------------------
97 F150 XLT, 5.4, EXTANG,EDELBROCK SHOCKS,
GIBSON SPLIT REAR,
HELLWIG SWAY BAR,
SONY ES-CDX880 HEAD,
SONY ES-XM5046 AMP
BOSTON PRO'S 6.5 FRONT

 

I am really having difficulty accepting that you can't use synthetic until 10,000 mi. With today's engines, i really don't think it's an issue any more. Mobil1 even says it's fine to use it immediately. (I know, i know of course they would...it's their product) Just like the "myth" that you can't switch to synthetics when your engine has high miles on it. I have personally switched multiple engines over to Mobil1 with high miles without problems or leaking. I also don't understand why you couldn't use 5W-30 or 0W-30 in place of 5W-20. One's a zero weight oil while the other two are both five weight oil. Why would this cause a problem? Some people on this site even use 10W-40 & 15W-40 and their trucks haven't blown up. I think the oil issuse is getting blown waaay out of proportion.
just my .02
Tony

------------------
'01 SCrew 4x4 XLT 5.4L

[This message has been edited by tfratzke (edited 05-03-2001).]

 

I know that I drive an older truck, but it does only have 61K oringinal miles, and I use 20w-50, because thats what several mechanics have told me around this area. I haven't ever reall done much oil research and in fact I am just begining my mission to broaden my knowledge of oils and there different functions and purposes.

------------------
 1990 Ford F150 XLT Lariat
 K&N Generation II FIPK
 Power Aid throttle body spacer
 Flowmaster Dual Cat-Back
 Rhino Bed Lining
 Rhino Undercoating
 Tint
 Loudest Regular cab stereo in the state of Utah with 3 12's behind the seat
To Come:
 Doug Thorley Tri-Y Headers
 4 inch Ranch Suspension Lift