Hey guys... I just ordered some electric fans through work today (really good price!) I got the Flex-o-Lite Dual fan kit with a/c relay, etc. Has anyone with these ever had a problem with them shorting out or something when exposed to water? Granted, I won't be submerging them or anything, but I will probably be 4 wheeling at some point and I don't want a little muddy water stopping my fans.

Also, I'll be installing a 160* thermostat most likely with the fans, so it should run a little cooler, but has anyone had problems with their engine cooling after installing the fans?

Finally, I don't believe that I have to get a new serpentine belt, right?

Thanks guys

-Flea

 

installed them a couple of weeks ago,i,ll get him to tell you about it

 

I put an electric fan kit on my truck about 2 or 3 weeks ago.
I bought the dual 16" fans.
I have had zero problems so far. I noticed a seat of the pants improvement right away.
My fans are set up so they both don't come on at the same time....this is done to avoid a heavy amp draw on my system from both fans starting at the same time(start up amp draw is much heavier than thr run load amp draw)
As far as the belt goes, this mod does not change any pulleys. You will have to remove the fan clutch off of the water pump pulley(which was a beeoch).

One thing I noticed in your post...that 160 stat...loose it.
I bought one also and put it in. Later I get to checking around and find that the lower temp stat in these newer trucks will not do sqauwt. I don't have enough knoweledge on the subject to get into the details of why. Look up a guy named Mike on here(posts as super_chips) and see what he has to say about it.

You'll like the fans..I know I do.

Rocks

 

If you ordered the new Flex-a-lite Dual #270 for Ford F150's, the controller has a circuit to manually over-ride the controller. You can have a switch on the dash to turn the fans off, before you enter the water. I would recomend a switch with a light to remind you to turn the fans back on when you get out.
If you ordered the #260 or 210, it can be done with these as well but it might help to get a separate relay to switch the power to the controller.
If you have a ?, call the factory 800-851-1510
ask for David H, or Scot

 

Cooler,
My kit came with controllers that have a circuit built in them that you hook to the ignition source. This automatically keeps the fans from running when the ignition is not on.
I suppose it depends on the style controllers you get with the kit. I bought my kit from Mike at Performance products(the super_chip guy). It came complete with everything you need to do a complete and proper installation. Mike also puts in an installation manual with it that they wrote up to make the install a breeze.


Rocks

 

Rocks,

Don't you have the Perf Prod Kit, not the Flex-a-lite ?

The Flex-a-lite 270 is a dual 15" fan.

The 160 deg therm, troll the L forrum looking for this info, I seem to think that I have seen some do this.

As for teh question above, no clue specific, I have a 2WD, and I don' drive through the antying near that deep ( only what is on the road ).<g>

 

I think I'm gonna stick with the 160* just for that little bit of extra security. I pull horses occasionally, and I don't want this thing overheating while on a long pull. Besides, my current 'stat needs to be replaced (engine running a little warm, not too bad) and I figure this with a backflush on the radiator will serve nicely.

As for the kit... I think it was the #260... anyways... it was the dual 15's with all the necessary controls/relays/etc. I won't be going through any deep water crossings where the fans would be submerged, but I just wanted to know if slinging a little mud up there would cause some serious damage. If it will, I'll avoid it.

-Flea

PS... Thanks for the help so far guys.

 

I really wouldn't run that 160* t-stat, maybe a 180* but that's it. These newer engines need to be operated in a fairly close range to OE in order ( or at least the PCM needs to see the proper temp) for all the emission junk to work right. Run to cool and all sorts of things could happen increased carbon, porr performance, eninge never reachs closed loop, etc.

If it's running hot theres something wrong to begin with. Electric fans are not going to fix that, it might overcome it but the problem is still there. Now if the problem is fixed and if the fans your using are enough I do not think you would ever have a cooling problem towing horses.

This is just IMO, it's your truck and money do what you see fit.

 

Yepper...the performance products one is the one I have.
I noticed the Flex-a-lite is 15' duals. The performance products are the 16" duals.

As for the 160 stat...I noticed a few around these boards that have them. I have found out that don't make it right...LOL.

What I have been told buy at least 2 sources is that the best performance and H.P. is gained at around 210 to 215 degrees.
Having the lower temp stat delays how long it takes to get there.

The factory stat on the lighting is a 180...the others is a 193 or there abouts. Mine was a 193.
Lower is not better in our trucks. The concept of the lower temp stats came from some of the older "muscle" cars. But they did alot more than just throw in a lower temp stat. The other changes they made went with that as part of the puzzle. I am not sure how it all worked back then, but I know it does not apply for the standard bolt on mods we are all doing here.

Rocks

 

I agree with KY-FF, If you have a cooling problem at speed, while cruising on the freeway, putting on a electric fan will not solve it. I don't know how heavy your trailer is loaded, but it may be too much for electric fans.
When it comes to moving a lot of air, pulley driven fans are hard to beat, when they are spinning fast enough. At low RPM's its easy for an electric to cool better. But when a 19" clutch fan is spinning at speed, it could be moving +10,000 CFM, but at the cost of 15-20 HP at the rear wheel.
But if the fan does the trick, you should also notice an improvement in MPG.
Good Luck.

 

LOL....I just read this after I made my second post about the stat. That is exactly what I have learned...I'm just not "car Smart" enough to have retained it properly.
We ain't chittin ya man....you may wan't to do some more checking before you put that 160 in there....it is gonna tick you off to find problems because of the stat a few months down the road...but as KYFORDFREAK out it...she is your truck.

Rocks

 

Rocks....

How long did it take youi to install that fan kit? Run into any problems? It, or the 270 is on my wish list.

 

Well Lookslike you got your answer on you 160* stat.
I did not bother with changing the stat or the water pump ( some use the cobra pump, but again mostly I see this on Ls ).

As for slinging mud up there, is you think you might have a road ( trail ) debris problem, you might want to go with the same one Rocks used.
The Flex-a-lite kit are plastic fans blades, and I think the PP fan kit are metal ( Rocks can you confirm that ? ).
As for submirsion of either....don't know.

If you think you are running hot, what does the ODO hack give you for a reading when you tow ?

You might be right with the flush.
Don't know if a 98 should have been flshed already..maybe so, cannot recall the maint interval for this.
Also if you think you want the additional cooling, look into a AL radiator.
Neal has a 2 core one I think, that has been said to be better at cooling then the 2.02" rad, but there again I don't have that problem, and I have not done any research on it.

While you are at this ( if you ar taking on this much of a project ), replacing hoses might not be a bad idea ( I aways look into this if I have the cooling system drained ) and maybe an additional / bigger trans cooler.

If it is protection you want, a new larger Rad, and a larger then the stock trans cooler are key to aiding in getting the heat gone.
Also when did you do a trans service last ?

I am out on a limb pontificating here ( so take it with a grain of salt ), but if your trans filter and fluid are needing changing, the trans might not be cooling itself effectivly and causing additional heat into the Rad, before the trans fluid goes to the trans cooler itself. How is that for out on a limb ?

While you are at all this, you could put in a trans temp gauge that woudl tell you where the trans temp is at.
I am going to do this, but I have some time before my trans fluid is due to be changed. Autometer makes a nice mechanical guage, and trans temp manifold.
I have been scouting locations for the trans temp guage, as I already used the area to the right of the gear selector for a Vac gauge. Maybe I'll take that out if I cannot find another place.

- all this info is subject to verififcation, I am just more so thinking out loud -

 

How much was the kit from Mike Troyer?

TIA,
Tony

 

Hello Linetest,

If I count only the time I spent working on the job, about 4 hours.
I worked on it over a couple days though...a little here and a little there. It was hotter than hell here and my garage is not air conditioned.

As far as problems...the fan clutch gave me a bit of a wrestle...but I won. The rest was not to bad. I think this job could be done by anyone with average mechanicle skills.
Let me give some credit here where it is due. The instructions that Mike at performance products wrote up and sent with the kit made the job about 10 times easier than it would have been otherwise.
Mike was also available when I had a slight wiring issue and he walked me through it over the phone.
IMHO...go with the performance products kit. Those folks have impressed me to no end with the customer support they give.

Rocks