HELP!

I drove the truck this afternoon. And now, 4 hours later it won't start.

Here's the weird part, measuring right at the battery terminals with nothing connected to the battery measures 12.7 volts or there-abouts. With the terminals/cables connected it fluctuates between 9-12.68 volts like a sort of on-off-on-off pattern about 1 second intervals. When the voltage drops to the 9 something volts then the interior light turns off and the two relays in the interior under-dash fuse box are flicking on and off to that same rythm. Trying to start the truck everything goes dead and some idiot lights flash on the dashboard (but half bright). Sometimes the starter solenoid makes a quick "click", otherwise no sound from the starter. Power door locks seem to work. Battery seems fine. Something alien is sucking all the juice out of my truck!

I've physically wire-brushed the battery terminals and the cables, makes no difference.

I've pulled all of the relays and popped them back in as well as fuses in case one has a bad contact. Nothing blown.

Is this a case of a bad "multifunction switch" or something?

edit: { the headlights or taillights don't work so no power at headlight switch I guess, horn works.
With the battery connected you can actually see the interior light dim and then go brighter on 1 second intervals but there is no clicking sound of a relay turning on/off or anything, I'm wondering what the f$%k can cause a 1 second interval load like that in the vehicle?}

Anyone else had this problem?

I'd hate to be stranded in the bush 4x4ing somewhere like this.

Help.

 

I'm going to check the connections at the starter. After than I'm disconnecting the alternator. And after that I'm going to try getting a boost from my bro when he arrives here.

 

Mine did the same thing about six months ago, and the battery was just dead. No warning at all. It started three times that day, the fourth time I came out of the store, hit the alarm and it sounded funny. I tried turning the key and got all kinds of wierd symptoms. A clicking relay under the dash, the alarm going off because of a voltage drop, and dimming lights etc..... It sounds like you are having the same thing. I guess the plates built up corrosion until it couldn't take any more.,,,,,98

Good luck!!!

 

I'm assuming you checked all of the fuses (at least fuse #20 and 21 in the engine compartment fuse box)?
Does the solenoid click at all when turning the key to start?
Do you have an automatic or manual trans?...could involve the transmission range sensor on automatics or the clutch position sensor on manuals.
Besides the solenoid or starter being at fault...the only other place at fault would be the ignition switch.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

I just put my digital multimeter on the 10A scale and quickly put it between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable/clamp. Well... it used less than 1A with the underhood light bulb coming on and turning off so it seems to appear to be a f*cked battery even though it shows 12.7 volts with no load. Must be a bad cell in the battery as in 12v batteries there are 6 cells and their all connected in series so if you have one bad connection then the whole thing is shot.

My bro is bringing the battery out of my boat so I'll be testing it later this morning but that looks to be the trick. Going to cross my fingers it's the battery cause that's an easy remedy although it's $100 bucks. Not sure if I'll go Motorcraft or not. Bought a DieHard $100 battery when the original in my Ranger died but that one didn't last much longer than 5 years either. This one's a 98 so 4 years.

Anyone had any experience with those Optima sealed gel-cells?

 

Heres my idead....I ve had this happen to me with other vehicles. ( escort, bronco, bronco II, mustang). I t usually ended up being a dead waek battery.
Anyhow first i would pull the battery and bring it to a part source or canadian tire or someone who can test the battery under load. They will do it for free. I realize that it shows good voltage but ive had some that show good but under load( starting etc.) they fail. NOTE:Even if you buy a new battery do the following checks since whatever is drawing the current may have ruined your first battery and will kill this one too.

i would boost from another running vehicle directly to the battery cables to see if it will turn over and run. If it doesnt i would suspect the starter is the prob. If it does start reconnect your battery and do the standing test which you did before. See if it fluctuates. Next start the engine. While running touch the cables with ohmeter and the voltage if i remember correctly should be 14.4 plus or minus .3ish any more and your alternator is over charging the battery any less and it is not charging at all. ( alternator issue. )
My only issue with this method on a new vehicle is boosting it. Im not sure about shocking the cpu. I have heard people say you shouldnt boost a new vehicle?! ( i have done it a few time but very careful where i ground and what). I performed these quick tests on MANY older fords and it worked everytime without buying a ton of uneccesary parts. These are just prelim testing that dont want to be overlooked that can save hundreds in electrical test from the dealer.
Good luck i hope it helps cuz my finger is sore. Im a two finger typer! haha

 

Again... thanks for the quick response! We must have been typing our responses at the same time LOL.

I basically tested everything I could without having someone help me with another battery and booster cables.

You're right on the money with this being a dud battery.

I'm feeling kinda lucky that this happened in my parent's driveway and I have 90% of my tools with me.

My brother is bringing my battery charger, booster cables, battery out of my boat and my Haynes manual in a couple hours.

 

I have been driving my 97 F-150 since Dec 96 and still have the original battery. Any day I expect it will give me a no start condition., but it keeps on going.

 

It was definitely the battery!

Here's the kicker, in the owners manual it says it has a 65/750 battery which is 750cca. However, the OE battery in it is a 650cca so I got ripped off... Ford gave me a smaller battery than I should have got (I bought it new so no previous owners).

I wonder how many of you have lesser batteries than what you should have if you remove the plastic cover and take a look?

The best price I found on an Optima Red-top sealed gel-cel battery up here in Canada is $219 @ Mopac Auto Supply. Kinda pricey. Cheapest in the US I found was $125 but shipping would cost an arm & a leg to Canada. Seeing as there's no such thing as "free" trade.

Without someone to give you a boost if you're driving alone off-road and with an AOD tranny you're screwed if your battery dies all of a sudden like mine did. Yesterday it was working 100%, never had any problems with it what-so-ever.

 

Glad you got it fixed!! I knew it was the battery I haven't pulled the cover off my battery since I got the new one. I wonder what cca my replacement is rated at?? It had better be right, or I'm gonna raise hell, LOL! I do know it's smaller than the factory battery, and has NO green/red eye either I may have been ripped after the fact, not sure yet. Actually I have no idea what good the "eye" is, mine was still green before and after it died,,,,98

 

Actually the "green" eye is rather misleading as it only tells you the condition of the electrolyte acid in the cell on which it is mounted, in my case it is still "green" as well. Really and truly they should have an eye on each cell, so 6 in total.

But even then, I haven't checked the specific gravity of each cell but opening the vent covers reveals that the acid levels are ok on each cell and the fluid is clear and the lead plates look really clean. Sometimes if you have a cell go bad you can see the fluid isn't quite clear anymore. I think it's a physical defect on how the cells are electrically connected in the top plate on this battery. Perhaps they design them this way to generate more battery sales?

I'm still arguing with my wife on WHY I should spend the extra for an Optima red top battery.:o

 

Tell her they last much longer, which they do.,,,,98

 

p_ferlow,

nevermind, I was reading to fast hehe.. I will look in my trouble shooting guide and see what it says hehe

Steve

 

Ok I will list all the possale causes that might apply acording to haynes

1, batery conection or termanals lose

2, batery discharge faulty,

3, Automatic transmition not engaged in park or nutral

4, Broken lose or disconected wires

5, Starter motor pinion jammed in drive plate

6, Started selanoid faulty

7, Starter motor faulty

8, Ignition switch faulty,

9, engin seized

10, Starter relay faulty

11, Transmission ranger (TR) sensor out of adjustment or defective

any of that help?

Steve

 

Steve: Ummm... you mean you were reading to slow. Ha ha. I found out it was the battery about 3 or 4 posts above this one.

But thanks for the help. It'll come in handy for anyone else having a no-start problem.

Cheers,
Peter