I have a 2001 supercrew with a 5.4. I noticed my oil pressure gauge drops to nothing , just like you turn the key off. It only does it for a split second and then it is back to normal. I have seen it do it twice. The engine sounds and runs normal. Could this be an electrical thing??

 

I don't think your "oil pressure gauge" is really an insturment that measures oil pressure but is factory set to read at a position of just over 1/2 on the gauge face, (when there enough oil press to turn off an idiot light) It is really nothing more than an idiot light using an indication pointer. Ever notice on a "real oil press. gauge" the pressure reads higher on very cold oil and lower on hot oil, bet yours reads the same regardless of oil temp.

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2000 F-150, XLT, SC, 5.4, 4X4, 355 LS, ORP, Black/Silver, class III, single CD, sliding glass, med. gray, keyless, elect. shift, engine date 8-18-99, Superchip. '93 Harley Fatboy Black & tons of chrome

 

Jeez, I hope you're wrong. If that's the case, I'd rather have an oil buzzer than a gauge that merely looks nice (sorta).

 

That's why I'm installing a full set of gauges: Oil Pressure (Mech), Water Temp (Mech), and Trans/Diff temp (elect.).

In my opinion, any gauge that does not have at least numbers associated with it (i.e. the factory voltmeter) is nothing more than an idit light. Even then, it's not much past an indicator.

I've been following a few threads on ford-trucks.com and ford-diesel.com. Some people really get up in arms about not having a real gauge. Some people think Ford should be installing real gauges from the factory. Some people just live with the factory gauges.

Personally, it does not matter to me what the factory does, or how "perfect" the truck is, I'm still going to add instrumentation. Oil pressure I WILL NOT trust to electric gauges or idiot lites.

Tony

 

Dont mean to scare you but I was pulling my car to the races and the oil pressure gauge dropped and then it dyed.Tried to start it and it was locked up.98 triton 4.6 58,000 miles

 

Is anyone a ford mechanic familiar with my above problem? 3 hours after it locked up it would turn over and run but you could here the metal (Didnt sound good) Then this morning I started it the pressure came up and sounded normal???? But it only lasted 2 minutes thenpressure would drop.Changed oil new filter and put motor flush through it before draining old oil. Added new synthetic 10-30 and stp.This helped it now will idle and hold pressure on dummy gauge.As soon as you increase above idle you can hear its not getting oil and gauge drops.Then it returns up at idle.This is all crazy to me after it wouldnt turn over.But it sounds ok? I am not a mechanic by trade but I do race and build $8000 Big Block Ford Engines (Old Style) I'm not up on these new motors.I lease this truck and it has 61000 miles (Past Warranty) I give it back in 2 months.I talked to dealer and they said its my problem. I cant beleive these new motors wont last longer than this! Any help would be apreciated!

 

The moment you get it started again, slowly drive to another Ford dealership and trade it in early.

I cringed at the motor flush (no lubricating value in those chemicals at all); and suspect that you had heat-seized -- which loosened up when cold.

I wonder where does the oil pump get it's drive (any one??)? -- and had you run your engine low on oil? I wonder how the oil sump pickup is anchored to the oil pump (were you sucking air??). I'm sure, as an engine-builder, you ran all these questions thru your head too.

What were you doing when it quit?

(sounds terminal at best)

 

I would suspect one of two things. 1) Like they said above, it sounds like maybe a heat-seize. That would cause some attitional clearance in the bearings yielding less pressure in the system. 2) I wonder if the oil pump intake got plugged with something (oil filter media or the like, maybe? Shavings from something rubbing even?) Basically it would mean that the pump is starving for oil. My best suggestion is to start by dropping the oil pan and looking to see what's in it. (A motor flush won't flush away stuff sucked up tight into the intake screen.) Other than those 2 possibilities, I dunno. Whatever happens, keep us posted.
-Joe-


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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
Deposit on '00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Sunroof, currently missing the fuel filler door, but they're working on that..

 

Wins88. Back to your problem. Yes, it probably is an electrical problem, the "gauge" is not a real gauge as Bubbadewsky said. It's meant to come "on" when the pressure reaches 4 psi, which is the minimum to keep the engine running. You might check the connection at the oil pressure sending unit, check the fuses, and if you're ambitious check the connection behind the instrument cluster.

 

Well,Dropped the pan. The screen on the pickup was full of some unknown debris. Pulled a rod and main bearing and they actually didnt look to bad??? So we cleaned it all up and filled it up with 20-50 and stp...I drove it and it seems ok no noises.I havent ran it hard yet but its doing good...Its on its way to be traded in in a few days. I feel SO LUCKY on this deal.I wasnt to impressed with the main caps for strength.(1/2 inch thick)Pop can size pistons.The pick up was about 18 inches long (Not good on cold starts)on the oil pump.Changing the oil pump would be a bear.Its drivin by the crank snout on outside of motor.You have to remove all acc.(Alt,fan,water pump)Timing cover and BOTH timing chains(Overhead cams on these new motors)and then you unbolt the oil pump.Its so new you have to order through ford.Napa couldnt even get one.Well its time for a powerstroke any way.I was pulling a 28 foot enclosed trailer when this all started.Thanks guys!

 

Curious. What kind of oil and filters were you using? Were you using some kind of additive? Sounds like something got into the oil. Did you determine what the crud was? Like somebody else guessed, I'm thinking it's something from the filter or a problem with some kind of additive you've been using.