Adding Prolong or Duralub engine lubercants.

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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 04:01 AM
  #31  
PKRWUD's Avatar
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From: Ventura, California
Norm,
Thanks for the kind words about my website! I put alot of time into it, and I'm always happy to hear someone else enjoying it.

BTW, I haven't paid more than $8 a quart for Slick 50 in several years. That's a worthwhile placebo in my mind. Thank you for understanding.

Take care,
-Chris
 
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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 10:54 PM
  #32  
MILLIMAR's Avatar
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From: OKLAHOMA
PKRWUD...

I noticed you side gap your spark plugs.... Ive read about this in a few mags.....

1...Any special tool to do this...???
2...How is the correct way to do it...???
3...Can you really feel the diff....???

BTW... Nice Web Site....
 
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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 11:00 PM
  #33  
Frank S's Avatar
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From: Blue Ridge Mountains, GA
I used to use Slick 50 about 10 years ago until I found out the the Teflon in it can actually clog the small oil spurt holes and passages in an engine over time. Ford and other companies know this and aren't trying to get you to wear your engine out faster by not using them. They just know they aren't good. Regular oil changes are the best way to go. No flame intended so lets not get our panties in a wad.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2002 | 12:05 PM
  #34  
PKRWUD's Avatar
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From: Ventura, California
Originally posted by MILLIMAR
PKRWUD...

I noticed you side gap your spark plugs.... Ive read about this in a few mags.....

1...Any special tool to do this...???
2...How is the correct way to do it...???
3...Can you really feel the diff....???

BTW... Nice Web Site....
Thank you. I should specify that my plugs are a cross between side gapped and regular gapped, and are currently more of an "exposed electrode gap". True side gapped plugs come that way, and to my knowledge, Champion doesn't offer them in their Truck Plug line. I have experimented with this for several years, and have had the best results doing them this way:
I insert a metal nail file inbetween the ground electrode and the porcelain, for protection, and with a fine saw blade, I remove all but the last 1/16" of the right angle end of the ground electrode. I then true the edges, and set the gap at or below stock recommendations with a feeler gauge. The end result, if held from the bottom, shows a completely exposed center electrode. This has given me an improvement in throttle response that can be compared to advancing the timing 4 to 6 degrees. It was noticable, but not ground shaking. However, when combined with my other mods, it works quite nicely. I must emphasize, though, that if you do this, do not exceed the factory recommended gap. I tried that first, and the result was an increase in engine temp. Unfortunately, my SD system limits me on what I can do due to it's pre-programmed fuel curve. I am considering adding an ajustable FPR to give me some more room to play.
 
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