Whats this engine oil cooler? I thought the tow pkg came with a transmision cooler? Come on talk to me guys!

------------------
1999 F150 XLT S/C,5.4,Wht,ORP,Pwr seats,Infinity/Alpine, Factory Nerf Bars Glasstite Targa topper.K&N

 

Robert, sometimes people use the term "oil cooler" to refer to the transmission oil cooler. But if you look under the front of the truck - there is two coolers under there - one is the transmission oil cooler - the other is an engine oil cooler. Mine has the towing package - so I guess this is why they include both coolers. Clearly - You don't drain the transmission oil cooler when you change the engine oil

------------------

 

I was browsing the store the other day for toys for the new truck and started looking at synthetic oils. I noticed almost every brand has come out with a synthetic "blend" now. Priced between synthetics and conventionals. Anyone heard test reports on the performance of this stuff? Seems kinda like smoking "low tar" cigarettes to me...

 

Hopefully the subject heading didn't confuse all. But what I would like to know is how to get all the conventional motor oil out of the engine including the engine oil cooler ,which is included with the tow package, so I can start using Mobil 1 Synthetic oil 5-30W. I understand that you should not mix conventional oils with synthetic - but I don't think all the oil will run out of the oil cooler when I change the oil through the drain plug? Maybe I am wrong - any thoughts??

 

Regarding oil cooler, my truck (see below) has a tranny oil cooler, engine oil cooler, and a power steering fluid cooler (go figure, but its there!-and I traced it to the P/S pump)

Joe

------------------
2001 SuperCrew 4x4 Lariat 5.4/4-spd auto, 3.55 l/s, elec xfer case, Skids, Class III tow, Stock 17"s, Oxford White/Med Graphite leather capts chairs, Rhinolined
Planned: K&N FIPK (When they get the CARB # for 2001's), Superchip

 

You will be alright, just drain out as much as you can, then fill it up with syn.

All synthetics now a day are fully compatible with conventional. YOu can even top off with conventional if necessary. It will reduce the effectiveness of the synthetic(extended drains) but will not harm the engine.

Also maybe on your next oil change after you switch, you can shorten the interval, maybe 2500 miles or so. Then on the 2nd batch of synthetic go the full interval-- what that is that you decide to go!

------------------
Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums

 

That's cool! I do have the class III tow pkg so I'll take a look. I love this site!!

------------------
1999 F150 XLT S/C,5.4,Wht,ORP,Pwr seats,Infinity/Alpine, Nerf Bars, Glasstite Targa Sport Topper, K&N, Tow Pkg.

 

They put the power steering cooler on there because it helps keep the fluid from breaking down. It is also supposed to help the life of the pump. I did not get the towing package and it also has a cooler on the powersteering. My 99 ranger had the same thing.

------------------


2000 F-150 Supercab
Toreado Red
4.2l V6
Flowmaster 40 series single in dual out
K&N aif filter
Class III reciever Hitch
Mobil1 Synthetic
tazman_65@hotmail.com Home

norman.green@equistarchem.com work



[This message has been edited by TAZMAN (edited 03-31-2000).]

 

Isn't it odd that Ford would rather protect a relatively inexpensive power steering pump w/ a cooler rather than a transmission??

------------------
1999 Super Cab XLT
5.4 V8
white w/ grey interior
LoJack Anti-Theft System
Bug Deflector
Aluminum Tool Box
Bed Mat
CCA Redfish Decal
TTMB Sheepshead Decal
JOIN at <A HREF="http://www.2coolfishing.com

" TARGET=_blank>www.2coolfishing.com

</A>

 

All auto trannys have a cooler. It's in the radiator. The one everyone is talking about in this thread is the "Auxiliary" (extra) Cooler on the towing package.

Who says there is an engine oil cooler in the Towing package? Don't see it anywhere on the truck and don't see it in any manuals. Are you talking about the HD engine cooling package part of the towing package? I think that is the Radiator and coolant flow stuff not the engine oil.

------------------
2000 F-250 Super Duty, SuperCab XLT, Oxford white with medium grey cloth captains chairs, 5.4L Triton V8 (260 HP version!), 4R100 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, 4 wheel ABS, Deluxe Aluminum Wheels, Trailer Towing Package, Class IV Hitch, Reece load distribution system, Escort Sensor II Electronic Brake controller, K&N filter, Sure Stop towing skirt, "Westin" black powder coated step bars, "White-White" head lamps, Herculiner bed liner.

 

I think they use the PS cooler because the fuild cavitates in the pump if they don't keep the temp down. And this in turn causes noise. I suspect they consider noise to be more important that tranny vs. ps reliability.

------------------
99, XL, SC, SB, auto, 4.6L, 255x70R16, 3.55LS, 2wd, Med Tor, Dk Grph, Raider LoRider Tonneau, Valley class III hitch, bed mat.
More to come!




[This message has been edited by Tiger (edited 03-31-2000).]

 

all4chem: In response to synthetic blends, I believe I have heard/read that a company can add just a drop (literally) and call it a blend. I don't think it necessarily is a 50% blend of each.

 

OK I will look at that. But it does not look like a radiator right? I couldn't trace any lines from the engine to any radiator type cooler other than the tranny lines to its radiatior and auxiliary and the coolant lines from the radiator (other than the AC condenser and the power streering pump). So its internal or hidden up near or in the engine somewhere? The towing package on the 5.4L F150 and F250 both say "HD engine cooling system" but don't say how they do it. I did notice a larger Radiator in Aluminum and was assuming a higher flow pump maybe was all they were talking about. But you are saying there is also an engine "oil" cooler as well?

 

To add what my friend msparks said, this is what I usually recommed when switching to synthetic oil from conventional oil:

What you need:

3 10 micron oil filters (Amsoil, Mobil1, Harddriver, Fram ExtraGuard)
1 can engine flush (I've only used Amsoil's but there must be others)
Appropriate amount of synthetic fluid.

I would start with a cold engine and change the existing filter with one of the new 10 micron filters. No need to add make up oil. The reason for the new filter is that this filter is quite clean and will do a proper job of filling up its filtering capacity with
the deposits that will come out as a result of the flush cleaning out the system.

Prop truck on jackstands or whatever you use to change your oil. Add the flush to the crankcase and follow directions on bottle. (Usually 20-30 minutes at high idle _NEVER DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH THE FLUSH IN THE ENGINE, THIS WILL CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE)

Drain oil, beware of foul odor, change filter and add a bit of new oil to help remove some of the stuff that might be in the bottom of the pan. Replace drain plug and fill crankcase to appropriate level.

After 3-5K miles change filter again, as the last filter you added will most likely fill up quickly as the synthetic will use it's additive package to remove even more engine deposits, varnish and the like.

After this change oil as normal (depending on whether or not you use extended drains.).

Keep in mind that this in only the way that I have done it (I've had quite good success with it actually), you may do it another way.

Randy W

 

The engine oil cooler is located where the oil filter connects to the engine. It uses coolant from the engine radiator to cool the oil as it leaves the oil filter. It is a heat exchanger that transfers the heat from the oil at the filter housing to the relative cool antifreeze that is in the bottom of the radiator and bottom radiator hose, this may be different in different years and engines but is the way mine is set up

------------------
2000 F-150, XLT, SC, 5.4, 4X4, 355 LS, ORP, Black/Silver, class III, single CD, sliding glass, med. gray, keyless, elect. shift, engine date 8-18-99, Superchip. '93 Harley Fatboy Black & tons of chrome