OK here we go again, to get some perfectly honest responses I will (for once) leave out my opinion.
Theory #1
When starting a vehicle at really cold temps, all accessories (including heat and/or defrost)should be be off, so as not to create undo stress on engine having to increase RPM's to power alternator when there initially isn't a significant amount of oil at top of engine. Warm air will come out of vents only when the engine is warm anyway.
Theory #2
Go ahead and turn the defrost on full because the alternator won't create any more of a draw than it would with all accessories off and thus won't additionally cause increased RPM's at this time when the engine is most vulnerable with most of oil still at the bottom of engine. Warm air will come out of vents sooner this way.
Theory #3
Get in, start the engine, and rev that "puppy up" so that it will get more oil to the top of the engine faster, thus creating the least amount of "wear" on engine. Accessories on or off, it doesn't matter on the wear of the engine, but with heater on full blast, it will blow warm air sooner, than at a lower setting.
Theory #4
If you put a frozen sandwhich in the microwave on high and set it for ten minutes, it will be ready to come out after three minutes, but if you set it on high for three minutes, it won't be done after three minutes. This is because it will work harder when set on the ten minute setting than it will on the three minute setting.

Which theory sounds the most inteligent and why?

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"Moonlight Blue" 98 F150 SC XLT 2WD 4.6, 3.55 LS Tow Pkg. SUPERCHIP, K&N Airbox mod. w/ "Cool" intake, Mobil One Oil, Bosch +4's. Lund Fastback, Lighted visor, Runninng Boards, Crome Taillight covers, Polished Steel Fenderwell Moldings, Smoked Bug and Rain guards, Shelf-it, Carpet dash cover, Red Wings license plate in front, Red Wings license plate frame in back, Little Detroit Viper hanging from mirror, Oh yeah, and one "Blacked-out" grill.
Gonna get my Bed rails back on, Finally!
Couldn't find the right Polished steel design, so once I modify the powercoated ones I just bought, I will paint them.
Q: who wants my chrome ones? Price:cost of shipping, or gas and maybe lunch if you live in S/E MI.

"Rocks don't move unless pushed, and neither do chevys!"

http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/daytona/843/

 

Neither of them

 

We use Theory 1 and 2 at our house. I always turn everything off before I shutdown and don't turn anything on till after I start up. My wife on the other hand, takes the time to take the vehicle out of gear and that's it. She just hits the key so, whenever I start start something she has driven I can tell if she got home after dark or if it was raining, etc... I have seen no ill effects between theory 1 and 2. I don't like theory 3, revving a cold engine doesn't sound to good to me.

As far as theory 4, man I thought MY truck was loaded but, I sure ain't got no microwave. I have to stick my frozen sandwich under my arm on the way to work. Then at lunctime
I say, "Hey buddy, wanna trade?".

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99 Lariat Normal Cab 2WD 120"WB 5.4 3.55LS Tow
Dark Toreador/Gold Line-X
raoul_oba@hotmail.com
F150's of Virginia
Just cause we're from Virginia don't mean we're(well, you know)

 

&TST - #1 is the ticket - don't overload syst. Residual oil in filter will get to top end soon enough, with increased revs at start up. Dont move until revs drop back to "normal".

Re # 4 I NEVER freeze sandwich's so I can't comment, however, I DO use hot water in the ice cube trays.

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98 F150 S/C 4.6 2wd Vermillion/Silver,HD Tow Pkg, Boards, Vents, Bug Chaser, DIY "breezer" Tailgate, 5th whl hitch, Tool box, 16" OEM Mag's,
Mobil1 /Wix Oil filter/ K&N / air box mod.
In looks & go - Chevy - like a rock.

 

I agree with #1 myself.

 

LMAO Raoul!

As far as which theory - use mobil 1 and get in and go!

P.S. I'm trying out for the F150online poet posistion. What do you think?

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'97 F150 Lariat, Flareside, white/sliver, SC, ORP, 5.4 (FQR 8/99) running Mobil 1
Mods: 305/70/16 GY ATS, AR Baja wheels, dual exhaust, Smittybilt Nerf Bars, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, K&N Filter, Carbon Fiber Bug Gaurd and rigged the fog lights too.

 

Move down south then you wont have to worry about extrem cold other wise #1 would be the best choice.

 

Hey Raoul,

I found out that the sandwich thaws faster under the right armpit for some reason.

 

Lost Me after the pound sign***

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99 F150 xlt s/c orp auto 5.4 soft tonneau, rubber maid bed mat,mud from the dirt bike(YZ250)

 

#2 for me.
Need the windshield defrosted.
The #4 theory is your imagination.
The timer just activates a relay that turns the magnatron on or off.
Magnatrons don't have a 1/2 power setting just on and off.
This is why you hear the microwave clicking on and off when you have it set at 1/2 power.
Most home (unless you have one of those fancy 2 stage systems) HVAC systems are the same way.
Either the burners on or it's off, the thermostat is just a simple switch.

 

This is way too funny! I choose theory #1 and then turn defrost fan on after engine is running,

I once tried freezing sandwiches but found they were quite soggy after thawing.

Also, from a technical standpoint Roadrunner,
You will find that water actually freezes faster if you use cold water not hot, Try two trays side by side and test for yourself.

 

OK, I can help out with Theory 1. All new Fords (91 and up or maybe earlier) have a kill switch on the starter. The starter gets 100% power when you start your vehicle, all other accessories get shut off. I used to turn off my lights and radio on my 91 Explorer and it made a difference, however on my 97 F-150 you can turn everything on and get the same power (ie the lights, radio etc will turn off when you turn the key). Give it a try!



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The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Ford Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page
www.mindspring.com/~acbradley/index.html

 

Triton, do you just sit in your truck and fiddle with stuff Wasn't it you that found the "secret" odometer first also?

Keep up the good work

 

Triton, try the lights again while starting.

 

Triton46
If you start your engine with everything 'on' it will only shut these things off for as long as it take to start the motor, then everything will be back on.

I have keep quiet long enough (for me) So for the record I beleive that the "oil starved engine" needs to warm up with as little RPM's as possible and the increased draw of the accessories will also increase the RPM's at a time when there is little oil in the top of the motor, thus creating more wear, at least for the time period that exisists before the oil is at "full lubrication temperature" Or maybe it's just me!

Just so ya'll know the #4 one is for the idiots where I used to work that actually thought that!!!