5.4l 3v Spark Plug Removal Instructions
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5.4l 3v Spark Plug Removal Instructions
Well I finally had one come in the shop recently after not seeing them for a long time. So I decided to shoot a video on the current favorite removal method that is working for us shops out there, since there are a few videos out there but they are all of poor quality. This works about 90% of the time. It seems you will usually break one out of 8 though and for that I have a new video coming out showing in detail the extraction process made simple. I hope this helps as this can be very costly. Most shops charge a half and hour more in additional labor each plug that breaks this can really add up!
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Great Video, however, only one error. The SP-515 plug is STILL a two piece plug. The difference appears to be it having a tighter crimp around the barrel.
Last edited by sam1947; Nov 20, 2013 at 06:34 AM.
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Another thing is how the dielectric was applied - which purty much guarantees it'll get between spring & plug tower. Jbrew REALLY hates that!
Oh - and IMHO, too much A/S on the shank - and also put it on the threads ( I'm cool with that part though ). No fault laid as I there isn't a whole lot of referential info on exactly how much is enough, here.
I'm reading more about how an improper A/S application can migrate down and foul the gap.
Lastly - I am still a fan of the 'old school' manual ratchet approach ( ain't failed me yet) - but I recognize a shop won't have the luxury of time. Hence the impact method really isn't a superior solution - it's an expedient one, born from time constraints IMHO.
Only 720p though - high quality my ayss
Just kiddin', OP - great job and thanks fer taking the time to put this together!
Last edited by MGDfan; Nov 20, 2013 at 08:17 AM.
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
1. Nice video....glad someone decided to get a higher quality one on YouTube....
2. I'd recommend running a couple of tanks of gas treated with chevron techron before the plug change.
3. The tip as you refer to it is actually the heat shield shank with ground strap.
4. No antisieze on the threads....they're already coated with nickle teflon.
5. Watch out on the socket extension lengths....the shorter the length the more control one has.
6. A thinner coat of antisieze on the shank.....keeping it below the taper on the jamb nut and above the ground strap.
6. The quarter turn method to tighten them is ok if yer in a pickle but the best method is using a torque wrench.
7. Watch out how the dielectric grease is applied....a thin coat applied with a q-tip is better than a glob of it...also apply some to the outside of the boot just below the visible part....keeps the boot from sticking in the head and a better moisture barrier.
8. I'd always recommend an oil change after using the carb cleaner....yer diluting/contaminating the oil in the crank case.
just some suggestions for ya....in a two year time I did over 2000 of them bastiges....carry on...
2. I'd recommend running a couple of tanks of gas treated with chevron techron before the plug change.
3. The tip as you refer to it is actually the heat shield shank with ground strap.
4. No antisieze on the threads....they're already coated with nickle teflon.
5. Watch out on the socket extension lengths....the shorter the length the more control one has.
6. A thinner coat of antisieze on the shank.....keeping it below the taper on the jamb nut and above the ground strap.
6. The quarter turn method to tighten them is ok if yer in a pickle but the best method is using a torque wrench.
7. Watch out how the dielectric grease is applied....a thin coat applied with a q-tip is better than a glob of it...also apply some to the outside of the boot just below the visible part....keeps the boot from sticking in the head and a better moisture barrier.
8. I'd always recommend an oil change after using the carb cleaner....yer diluting/contaminating the oil in the crank case.
just some suggestions for ya....in a two year time I did over 2000 of them bastiges....carry on...
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1. Nice video....glad someone decided to get a higher quality one on YouTube....
2. I'd recommend running a couple of tanks of gas treated with chevron techron before the plug change.
3. The tip as you refer to it is actually the heat shield shank with ground strap.
4. No antisieze on the threads....they're already coated with nickle teflon.
5. Watch out on the socket extension lengths....the shorter the length the more control one has.
6. A thinner coat of antisieze on the shank.....keeping it below the taper on the jamb nut and above the ground strap.
6. The quarter turn method to tighten them is ok if yer in a pickle but the best method is using a torque wrench.
7. Watch out how the dielectric grease is applied....a thin coat applied with a q-tip is better than a glob of it...also apply some to the outside of the boot just below the visible part....keeps the boot from sticking in the head and a better moisture barrier.
8. I'd always recommend an oil change after using the carb cleaner....yer diluting/contaminating the oil in the crank case.
just some suggestions for ya....in a two year time I did over 2000 of them bastiges....carry on...
2. I'd recommend running a couple of tanks of gas treated with chevron techron before the plug change.
3. The tip as you refer to it is actually the heat shield shank with ground strap.
4. No antisieze on the threads....they're already coated with nickle teflon.
5. Watch out on the socket extension lengths....the shorter the length the more control one has.
6. A thinner coat of antisieze on the shank.....keeping it below the taper on the jamb nut and above the ground strap.
6. The quarter turn method to tighten them is ok if yer in a pickle but the best method is using a torque wrench.
7. Watch out how the dielectric grease is applied....a thin coat applied with a q-tip is better than a glob of it...also apply some to the outside of the boot just below the visible part....keeps the boot from sticking in the head and a better moisture barrier.
8. I'd always recommend an oil change after using the carb cleaner....yer diluting/contaminating the oil in the crank case.
just some suggestions for ya....in a two year time I did over 2000 of them bastiges....carry on...
The quarter-turn WITH anti-seize on the threads will put you WAY over the recommended TQ of 25 ft-lbs.
MGD
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Yes sir!
Another thing is how the dielectric was applied - which purty much guarantees it'll get between spring & plug tower. Jbrew REALLY hates that!
Oh - and IMHO, too much A/S on the shank - and also put it on the threads ( I'm cool with that part though ). No fault laid as I there isn't a whole lot of referential info on exactly how much is enough, here.
I'm reading more about how an improper A/S application can migrate down and foul the gap.
Lastly - I am still a fan of the 'old school' manual ratchet approach ( ain't failed me yet) - but I recognize a shop won't have the luxury of time. Hence the impact method really isn't a superior solution - it's an expedient one, born from time constraints IMHO.
Only 720p though - high quality my ayss Just kiddin', OP - great job and thanks fer taking the time to put this together!
Another thing is how the dielectric was applied - which purty much guarantees it'll get between spring & plug tower. Jbrew REALLY hates that!
Oh - and IMHO, too much A/S on the shank - and also put it on the threads ( I'm cool with that part though ). No fault laid as I there isn't a whole lot of referential info on exactly how much is enough, here.
I'm reading more about how an improper A/S application can migrate down and foul the gap.
Lastly - I am still a fan of the 'old school' manual ratchet approach ( ain't failed me yet) - but I recognize a shop won't have the luxury of time. Hence the impact method really isn't a superior solution - it's an expedient one, born from time constraints IMHO.
Only 720p though - high quality my ayss
Just kiddin', OP - great job and thanks fer taking the time to put this together!As far as the impact its the way we do them at the dealerships this particular engine only. I would never use a impact otherwise. If it didn't come out in HD high quality it is your connection cause man I still can't believe how clear of video the iphone takes when I watch these back.
Last edited by makuloco2000; Nov 21, 2013 at 05:27 PM.
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Yes sir!
Another thing is how the dielectric was applied - which purty much guarantees it'll get between spring & plug tower. Jbrew REALLY hates that!
Oh - and IMHO, too much A/S on the shank - and also put it on the threads ( I'm cool with that part though ). No fault laid as I there isn't a whole lot of referential info on exactly how much is enough, here.
I'm reading more about how an improper A/S application can migrate down and foul the gap.
Lastly - I am still a fan of the 'old school' manual ratchet approach ( ain't failed me yet) - but I recognize a shop won't have the luxury of time. Hence the impact method really isn't a superior solution - it's an expedient one, born from time constraints IMHO.
Only 720p though - high quality my ayss Just kiddin', OP - great job and thanks fer taking the time to put this together!
Another thing is how the dielectric was applied - which purty much guarantees it'll get between spring & plug tower. Jbrew REALLY hates that!
Oh - and IMHO, too much A/S on the shank - and also put it on the threads ( I'm cool with that part though ). No fault laid as I there isn't a whole lot of referential info on exactly how much is enough, here.
I'm reading more about how an improper A/S application can migrate down and foul the gap.
Lastly - I am still a fan of the 'old school' manual ratchet approach ( ain't failed me yet) - but I recognize a shop won't have the luxury of time. Hence the impact method really isn't a superior solution - it's an expedient one, born from time constraints IMHO.
Only 720p though - high quality my ayss
Just kiddin', OP - great job and thanks fer taking the time to put this together!1. Nice video....glad someone decided to get a higher quality one on YouTube....
2. I'd recommend running a couple of tanks of gas treated with chevron techron before the plug change.
3. The tip as you refer to it is actually the heat shield shank with ground strap.
4. No antisieze on the threads....they're already coated with nickle teflon.
5. Watch out on the socket extension lengths....the shorter the length the more control one has.
6. A thinner coat of antisieze on the shank.....keeping it below the taper on the jamb nut and above the ground strap.
6. The quarter turn method to tighten them is ok if yer in a pickle but the best method is using a torque wrench.
7. Watch out how the dielectric grease is applied....a thin coat applied with a q-tip is better than a glob of it...also apply some to the outside of the boot just below the visible part....keeps the boot from sticking in the head and a better moisture barrier.
8. I'd always recommend an oil change after using the carb cleaner....yer diluting/contaminating the oil in the crank case.
just some suggestions for ya....in a two year time I did over 2000 of them bastiges....carry on...
2. I'd recommend running a couple of tanks of gas treated with chevron techron before the plug change.
3. The tip as you refer to it is actually the heat shield shank with ground strap.
4. No antisieze on the threads....they're already coated with nickle teflon.
5. Watch out on the socket extension lengths....the shorter the length the more control one has.
6. A thinner coat of antisieze on the shank.....keeping it below the taper on the jamb nut and above the ground strap.
6. The quarter turn method to tighten them is ok if yer in a pickle but the best method is using a torque wrench.
7. Watch out how the dielectric grease is applied....a thin coat applied with a q-tip is better than a glob of it...also apply some to the outside of the boot just below the visible part....keeps the boot from sticking in the head and a better moisture barrier.
8. I'd always recommend an oil change after using the carb cleaner....yer diluting/contaminating the oil in the crank case.
just some suggestions for ya....in a two year time I did over 2000 of them bastiges....carry on...
2)I have tried our induction machine we have here at work with little success so I have since given up, and it's BG Chemicals too.
3)Ok
4)Ya know the way they looked like they are coated and the tsb states coat tip and never mentions the threads I have to agree. It's just ben burned into me Aluminum heads= aniti seize on plugs. But I agree. Can't hurt.
5)Ok
6) Of course it is but many do not have a torque wrench and if they follow my method with a small 3/8 rachet as I have in the video they will have zero problems.
7)As stated before I put on the amount shown if not a bit less for 9 years doing drivability for Ford no problems, it's fine. Just a bit is need though, I agree.
8)Oh yes for sure, totally agree. I never mentioned it because I was already doing an oil change per customer because he was due for one plus a rotate, coolant flush etc he came in for so it got lost in there.
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I've had pretty decent success with impact method, straight away, no soaking, warm/hot engine.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-55-56-a.html?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-55-56-a.html?
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I've had pretty decent success with impact method, straight away, no soaking, warm/hot engine.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-55-56-a.html?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-55-56-a.html?
