99 f150 engine options
99 f150 engine options
So I just bought a 99 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 windsor.
Got a great deal on it but knew full well when I looked at it that I could smell antifreeze....so it begins..
Didn't even need to do a compression test, coolant was leaking out of the head/gasket right where one of the exhaust manifold studs was broke off on the driver side.
This is a bit of a project vehicle as my DD is still on the road. I have shop space, and have some light wrenching background.
Ive done head gaskets on push rod engines before, not on OHC though so that part frightens me a touch.
Here is what I am debating:
1) Leave engine in vehicle and strip it down to the head gaskets, re and re as necessary (leaning against this as it has 200K miles on it and I think shes burning a bit of oil as well)
2) Pull engine out and swap it out with a junk yard donor, there will be no shortage in this area, doesn't look like to difficult a job, just time, which I have lots of.
3) Buy this PI engine
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLar...AdId=330171151
I know that being a 99 my 4.6 is not a PI. The engine in the add is just the block, heads, no intake manifold etc etc.
So if I were to go this route, I know I would need a later intake manifold, but what else? Should everything else be the same ie fuel lines, alternator, sensors, power steering mounting etc etc....
Thanks in advance guys, its tough to make a choice here.
Got a great deal on it but knew full well when I looked at it that I could smell antifreeze....so it begins..
Didn't even need to do a compression test, coolant was leaking out of the head/gasket right where one of the exhaust manifold studs was broke off on the driver side.
This is a bit of a project vehicle as my DD is still on the road. I have shop space, and have some light wrenching background.
Ive done head gaskets on push rod engines before, not on OHC though so that part frightens me a touch.
Here is what I am debating:
1) Leave engine in vehicle and strip it down to the head gaskets, re and re as necessary (leaning against this as it has 200K miles on it and I think shes burning a bit of oil as well)
2) Pull engine out and swap it out with a junk yard donor, there will be no shortage in this area, doesn't look like to difficult a job, just time, which I have lots of.
3) Buy this PI engine
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLar...AdId=330171151
I know that being a 99 my 4.6 is not a PI. The engine in the add is just the block, heads, no intake manifold etc etc.
So if I were to go this route, I know I would need a later intake manifold, but what else? Should everything else be the same ie fuel lines, alternator, sensors, power steering mounting etc etc....
Thanks in advance guys, its tough to make a choice here.
That doesnt look like a "new ford block assembly" Looks like it has just been pressure washed and steam cleaned. And looks like it has been outside, which depending how long would be a concern. If it has been in the elements, there is a good chance you will find rust on the cylinder walls, rings, water pump, cam lobes etc.. Not a good thing. Plus the main seals have probably dried up along with valve seals and such.
Just saw that there were more pics of it. Yea... rust specs in the cylinders. And the cams look to be in bad shape.. I would stay away from that myself. Unless you plan to completely tear it down and rebuild it again.
Just saw that there were more pics of it. Yea... rust specs in the cylinders. And the cams look to be in bad shape.. I would stay away from that myself. Unless you plan to completely tear it down and rebuild it again.
That doesnt look like a "new ford block assembly" Looks like it has just been pressure washed and steam cleaned. And looks like it has been outside, which depending how long would be a concern. If it has been in the elements, there is a good chance you will find rust on the cylinder walls, rings, water pump, cam lobes etc.. Not a good thing. Plus the main seals have probably dried up along with valve seals and such.
Just saw that there were more pics of it. Yea... rust specs in the cylinders. And the cams look to be in bad shape.. I would stay away from that myself. Unless you plan to completely tear it down and rebuild it again.
Just saw that there were more pics of it. Yea... rust specs in the cylinders. And the cams look to be in bad shape.. I would stay away from that myself. Unless you plan to completely tear it down and rebuild it again.
Thanks for this....going to heed your advice and avoid it. I don't want to get into anything more than a re and re on this truck as Im doing it on a tight budget. The truck is fine and dandy but not worth a total tear down and rebuild.
So after I posted this yesterday I started tearing it down. I started it at noon and by 6pm I had the intake manifold out. I took three pages of notes and labelled everything on the wiring harness.
Not a bad job so far, armed with a Haynes manual and a socket set (PB blaster and a breaker bar pipe too) I didn't run into any problems. The manual is pretty straight forward. Would like to buy the tool that undoes the fuel rails from the fuel line to get those out of the road before I go back at it.
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Right away something jumped out at me when I pulled the intake off. The farthest back port on the driver side (you can see it in the second photo) had some serious creamy goodness in it. Like a good half inch around the port on all sides. Also a breach in the intake manifold gasket right near it, although that may had been cause by me pulling the intake off but I doubt it.
As far as the 5.4 swap, I did read up on it it, but right now I have more 4.6's available, and I have a mustang for a toy, this truck is going to be primarily for work so I would like to keep it relatively original.
Talked to my local boneyard guys and was given a few options for engine replacement. I can get a 2000 with 180K (kilometers, like 120K miles) or a 2001 with 140km.
The guy seemed to not want to sell me the 2001 because he said it was different and wouldnt work in a 99. From the reading I have done it looks like the only change I need to make is swap out the COP ignition for my existing coil/wires combo. Anything else need to be done differently? I would prefer the PI engine but don't want to get into a wiring or programming head scratcher.
Also the 6 and 8 bolt flywheel thing, is that an issue? Im sure I will understand it when I see it from underneath and how it relates to everything, but as of now I have no clue.
Thanks again and happy NYE.
Last edited by 705techno; Dec 31, 2011 at 11:18 AM.
I can't answer all of your questions. Ive only done a 5.4 to 5.4 myself and had no issues with anything. PI would be great, the extra power and tq would be worth it. If you ask me, a non PI 4.6 engine didnt belong in these trucks. Someone can chime in on what it would take, I don't believe it is much at all.
I will give some pointers. For the a/c, leave the compressor and system hooked up, just unbolt it from the block and move it off to the side. Pick up some new engine mounts and trans mounts while you things apart... I think I got mine at rockauto for around $80 total. Well worth it. Leave the trans in the truck. Unbolt the torque converter from the inspection shield at the bell housing. During the removal, jack the trans up as are lifting the engine (2 people) and when the engine clears the motor mounts, pull forward and separate. Make sure there is not tension on the trans or it will not be an easy separation.
Depending on what he wants for those engines, I would consider them not an option with those miles. Really spend some time and try to hunt down something with under 100k, preferably in the 40-60k range.... not impossible as there are thousands of modular engines out there. Check your local craigslists as well. For the amount of work it takes to complete the swap, treat yourself with the low mileage engine, hopefully a PI or even a 5.4
. I paid around 1400 for my 5.4 but it only had 10k on it... and I made all my money back in the end selling the rest of the parts I had bought (bought a wrecked truck)
Good luck.
I will give some pointers. For the a/c, leave the compressor and system hooked up, just unbolt it from the block and move it off to the side. Pick up some new engine mounts and trans mounts while you things apart... I think I got mine at rockauto for around $80 total. Well worth it. Leave the trans in the truck. Unbolt the torque converter from the inspection shield at the bell housing. During the removal, jack the trans up as are lifting the engine (2 people) and when the engine clears the motor mounts, pull forward and separate. Make sure there is not tension on the trans or it will not be an easy separation.
Depending on what he wants for those engines, I would consider them not an option with those miles. Really spend some time and try to hunt down something with under 100k, preferably in the 40-60k range.... not impossible as there are thousands of modular engines out there. Check your local craigslists as well. For the amount of work it takes to complete the swap, treat yourself with the low mileage engine, hopefully a PI or even a 5.4
. I paid around 1400 for my 5.4 but it only had 10k on it... and I made all my money back in the end selling the rest of the parts I had bought (bought a wrecked truck)Good luck.
I can't answer all of your questions. Ive only done a 5.4 to 5.4 myself and had no issues with anything. PI would be great, the extra power and tq would be worth it. If you ask me, a non PI 4.6 engine didnt belong in these trucks. Someone can chime in on what it would take, I don't believe it is much at all.
I will give some pointers. For the a/c, leave the compressor and system hooked up, just unbolt it from the block and move it off to the side. Pick up some new engine mounts and trans mounts while you things apart... I think I got mine at rockauto for around $80 total. Well worth it. Leave the trans in the truck. Unbolt the torque converter from the inspection shield at the bell housing. During the removal, jack the trans up as are lifting the engine (2 people) and when the engine clears the motor mounts, pull forward and separate. Make sure there is not tension on the trans or it will not be an easy separation.
Depending on what he wants for those engines, I would consider them not an option with those miles. Really spend some time and try to hunt down something with under 100k, preferably in the 40-60k range.... not impossible as there are thousands of modular engines out there. Check your local craigslists as well. For the amount of work it takes to complete the swap, treat yourself with the low mileage engine, hopefully a PI or even a 5.4
. I paid around 1400 for my 5.4 but it only had 10k on it... and I made all my money back in the end selling the rest of the parts I had bought (bought a wrecked truck)
Good luck.
I will give some pointers. For the a/c, leave the compressor and system hooked up, just unbolt it from the block and move it off to the side. Pick up some new engine mounts and trans mounts while you things apart... I think I got mine at rockauto for around $80 total. Well worth it. Leave the trans in the truck. Unbolt the torque converter from the inspection shield at the bell housing. During the removal, jack the trans up as are lifting the engine (2 people) and when the engine clears the motor mounts, pull forward and separate. Make sure there is not tension on the trans or it will not be an easy separation.
Depending on what he wants for those engines, I would consider them not an option with those miles. Really spend some time and try to hunt down something with under 100k, preferably in the 40-60k range.... not impossible as there are thousands of modular engines out there. Check your local craigslists as well. For the amount of work it takes to complete the swap, treat yourself with the low mileage engine, hopefully a PI or even a 5.4
. I paid around 1400 for my 5.4 but it only had 10k on it... and I made all my money back in the end selling the rest of the parts I had bought (bought a wrecked truck)Good luck.
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Going to grab the 2001 engine for $500. 140KM is low enough for me. Im looking to get a couple years out of this girl and then get out of it what I put into it.
I only paid $1600 for the truck so Im trying to keep the numbers as low as I can. In my area any 4x4 truck that is driveable is worth 2500-4000 so Ill do fine on it.
I was on it again yesterday, the starter was a beauty with that top bolt hidden away and the haynes manual stating there was only one bolt to remove...ha....also got one manifold off at the pipe. The driver side one had rounded studs on it which I made even rounder, so Im going to pop it off the engine and leave it until it the engine comes out, then figure it out from there.
Im hoping to have it pulled tomorrow (-20 today, forget it)
I only paid $1600 for the truck so Im trying to keep the numbers as low as I can. In my area any 4x4 truck that is driveable is worth 2500-4000 so Ill do fine on it.
I was on it again yesterday, the starter was a beauty with that top bolt hidden away and the haynes manual stating there was only one bolt to remove...ha....also got one manifold off at the pipe. The driver side one had rounded studs on it which I made even rounder, so Im going to pop it off the engine and leave it until it the engine comes out, then figure it out from there.
Im hoping to have it pulled tomorrow (-20 today, forget it)
I only paid $1600 for the truck so Im trying to keep the numbers as low as I can. In my area any 4x4 truck that is driveable is worth 2500-4000 so Ill do fine on it.
I was on it again yesterday, the starter was a beauty with that top bolt hidden away and the haynes manual stating there was only one bolt to remove...ha....also got one manifold off at the pipe. The driver side one had rounded studs on it which I made even rounder, so Im going to pop it off the engine and leave it until it the engine comes out, then figure it out from there.
Im hoping to have it pulled tomorrow (-20 today, forget it)
I was on it again yesterday, the starter was a beauty with that top bolt hidden away and the haynes manual stating there was only one bolt to remove...ha....also got one manifold off at the pipe. The driver side one had rounded studs on it which I made even rounder, so Im going to pop it off the engine and leave it until it the engine comes out, then figure it out from there.
Im hoping to have it pulled tomorrow (-20 today, forget it)
Those damn starters. I'm telling you, I had more problems removing and installing that than I did the whole engine. Good luck.
Just wanted to post a follow up.
I got her in and running. Went with the $500, 150,000KM engine out of the 2001. There were no surprises other than things taking a lot more time than they should have due to my inexperience. Ive only re and re'd one other engine (Nissan hardbody) and it was a lot easier than this one.
My advice for any rookies out there that want to attempt this:
Make sure you have lots of time. Its going to take a lot of time.
You don't need any special tools or torches or anything, just a wide array of sockets...and some other stuff that Ill update later
Ill edit this later when Im off work
I got her in and running. Went with the $500, 150,000KM engine out of the 2001. There were no surprises other than things taking a lot more time than they should have due to my inexperience. Ive only re and re'd one other engine (Nissan hardbody) and it was a lot easier than this one.
My advice for any rookies out there that want to attempt this:
Make sure you have lots of time. Its going to take a lot of time.
You don't need any special tools or torches or anything, just a wide array of sockets...and some other stuff that Ill update later

Ill edit this later when Im off work






