97F150-Engine won't crank
OK guys, I know this sounds obvious, but the wife took the truck to the local Walmart and the nex thing I know I get a call that the truck won't start when she gets back in it from shopping. So, thinking it must be the battery (looks like OEM) I drive HER Honda CRV down there and attempt to jump it. NO GO. All I get when I
turn the key is what sounds like a single click and nothing. It doesn't make the rapid clicking noise like cars sometimes do when
the battery is low. Anyway, the interior light didn't seem dim when I first got in. Is there anything else I might should check instead of assuming it is the battery. Either it IS something else, or the CRV's battery is not enough to jump the F150's battery.
turn the key is what sounds like a single click and nothing. It doesn't make the rapid clicking noise like cars sometimes do when
the battery is low. Anyway, the interior light didn't seem dim when I first got in. Is there anything else I might should check instead of assuming it is the battery. Either it IS something else, or the CRV's battery is not enough to jump the F150's battery.
First turn on your car lightsnwipers and heater and beep the horn if it is dead or low it could be a battery issue, if it is the battery then make sure you have a good connection from the jumper cables. I have a friend that had the same problem and the dealer told him it is a lead wire to the starter and it is to thin and tends to short out or maybe the starter itself?? lol. }--->
Don't take this as gospel, but I think if you have power and are only getting a single click, what it means is that the starter solenoid has gone for a dump. Time to replace. (Note - not the starter, the solenoid.)
I had that same problem. Turned out to be the battery cable going to the starter. It corroded all the way through. Here is a pic. I know it isn't the best.
Last edited by King James; Jul 6, 2001 at 06:11 AM.
Thanks for the good advice! After another attempt to jump it, I used the tried and true master mechanic's method of takin' a hammer to it! Actually, I lightly tapped both battery clamps with a hammer and low and behold it started right up! The battery voltage did check slightly low (12.2) with a multimeter, so
I went ahead and took it to Sears and had the battery and charging system checked on their test equipment. They showed that the battery was bad. I went ahead and bought a DieHard Gold, so I hope to not have anymore problems for a while!
I went ahead and took it to Sears and had the battery and charging system checked on their test equipment. They showed that the battery was bad. I went ahead and bought a DieHard Gold, so I hope to not have anymore problems for a while!
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p.s. - King James, thanks for the great picture of the corroded battery cable! That plastic tube that covers the cable does a good job of hiding the corrosion, doesn't it? Sometime in the very near future, I plan to be checking my cables thanks to that eye opening picture!
It's amazing what a couple of years and a little batt/acid corrision will do. I twisted the poitive post right because of battery corrison out of so ladies car the other day changing the batt in her car, stupid sidepost GM crap. MY suggestion was going to be check the starter solinoid, forgot about the wires.
I would also check the starter terminal, they seem to rust in the bend to the starter post. I also one day got a "click", went and bought a solenoid and thought it was fixed but a few days later, same thing. I replaced the terminal for a $1 and no problems since.
Also, it sounds like the negative battery terminal was loose. If it isn't connected good, it can drain the battery (I have no idea, don't ask me why or how, but it did it to me, 4 batteries in a month, the same guy at Advance Auto kept changing them). Common symptom of that is everything is cool, and then when you hit the key, you hear a single click and it seems as if someone disconnected the battery. By the way, thanks from me also for the battery cable pic, I am going to tune-up this weekend, and I will definitely check them, I wouldn't have if I hadn't seen this post!
I think it's Wal-Mart! The same thing happened to me a few weeks ago,in a Wal-Mart parking lot
. It also turned out to be a bad battery. I wish I had just replaced it myself,because the dealer charged me $175!!,,,,,98
. It also turned out to be a bad battery. I wish I had just replaced it myself,because the dealer charged me $175!!,,,,,98
Walmart does sell batteries, any if they have a Tire Lube Express they install them for free. I think when you go into the store they turn on your headlights so your battery dies and they can sell you a new one!
-Jon
-Jon
batteries
I have been driving Only Fords for 30 years. In nearly every case, the original Motorcraft battery will one day just quit with no warning and will not take a charge. This has happened on nearly every new Ford I have ever owned, and there have been many. It usually happens in the second or third year. Happens on my trucks, three of the four Tauruses my bride has owned, and my son's 98 Mustang. The only replacement I have ever bought is Sears Die Hard Gold!


