Cheap MAF upgrade!!!
Okay, I am going to answer my own question here posted earlier.
I took out the center post of the MAF and the plate behind it.
Results, no check engine lights, no idle issue. Best part is that it just freed up about 10 HP. At idle if you rev it you can hear the air sucking into the Filter!
Okay, so here is the how to:
need a dremel or grinding stone for a drill, a file and hacksaw or sawzall to cut. Also security torx bits
So remove the MAF from the plastic housing, remove the MAF sensor. Set aside, do not damage the wires. Look on the back side and there is a metal plate. Remove that with the security torx bits and discard. Now I did it with a sawzall, but you need to cut towards the bottom as close as you can without damaging the outer wall of the MAF. Then in the top, you have to leave the bullet hole part there. But cut right below that. Once you make your initial cuts, then file away to smooth it out. Finally take the grinding stone or dremel to smooth and do the final finishing. Took me about an hour of work today, but results are worth it!
Stock, you can see the back of a MAF with that centerpost and the metal cover there.

Modified, this is what you are trying to make (picture of a ProM unit):

Can you guess which one flows more air?
Well there you have it! Enjoy!
Disclaimer -- This works on my truck, do at your own risk! I take no responsibility for anything you do from my post here! USE at your own risk.
**sorry, it is a sue crazy world!
I took out the center post of the MAF and the plate behind it.
Results, no check engine lights, no idle issue. Best part is that it just freed up about 10 HP. At idle if you rev it you can hear the air sucking into the Filter!
Okay, so here is the how to:
need a dremel or grinding stone for a drill, a file and hacksaw or sawzall to cut. Also security torx bits
So remove the MAF from the plastic housing, remove the MAF sensor. Set aside, do not damage the wires. Look on the back side and there is a metal plate. Remove that with the security torx bits and discard. Now I did it with a sawzall, but you need to cut towards the bottom as close as you can without damaging the outer wall of the MAF. Then in the top, you have to leave the bullet hole part there. But cut right below that. Once you make your initial cuts, then file away to smooth it out. Finally take the grinding stone or dremel to smooth and do the final finishing. Took me about an hour of work today, but results are worth it!
Stock, you can see the back of a MAF with that centerpost and the metal cover there.

Modified, this is what you are trying to make (picture of a ProM unit):

Can you guess which one flows more air?
Well there you have it! Enjoy!
Disclaimer -- This works on my truck, do at your own risk! I take no responsibility for anything you do from my post here! USE at your own risk.
**sorry, it is a sue crazy world!
Originally posted by FrozenTexan
What does your timing look like now?
What does your timing look like now?
So far so good. A lot more pickup above 2500rpms.
HI... Make sure you DO NOT do this to the black ABS plastic MAF that comes on the "99" and newer trucks!!!!!!! This will result in you spending MUCH $$$$$$ to buy a new MAF. JMC tried this on his "2000" 4.6 and it screwed everything up. I have seen and heard that this mod only works on the aluminum MAF's in the older trucks and MUSTANGS. Well at least 50% of the time.
I did the same mod to my stock MAF and it was plastic and no problems here... I'm not sure if there was a gain or not, but I did feel a slight increase in performace... so that is that
Trending Topics
Matt:
Because I'm very careful and only make one change at a time and I am waiting for my "Y" pipe to come in, I will do that mod next, evaluate the results, report changes, if any, then remove that plate.
Mark
SundayNiagara
BE THERE!!!!!!!
Because I'm very careful and only make one change at a time and I am waiting for my "Y" pipe to come in, I will do that mod next, evaluate the results, report changes, if any, then remove that plate.
Mark
SundayNiagara
BE THERE!!!!!!!
well... us v6 guys have been on this subject for a long time now.
read this page: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S.../mod-MAF.html?
All is does is Lean out your fuel curve because it keeps the same A/F ratio but your letting more air in. If your already pinging, I WOULD NOT recommend this mod due to Detonation.
Read that ENTIRE page at the bottom for a VERY detailed explanation.
read this page: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S.../mod-MAF.html?
All is does is Lean out your fuel curve because it keeps the same A/F ratio but your letting more air in. If your already pinging, I WOULD NOT recommend this mod due to Detonation.
Read that ENTIRE page at the bottom for a VERY detailed explanation.
TalleyWacker-
I read your page. Nice job. But it seems that is richens the mixture and gives you a more accurate reading from the post there. Even the test on the cobra unit is within 1.5%, so this would not cause issues.
I read your page. Nice job. But it seems that is richens the mixture and gives you a more accurate reading from the post there. Even the test on the cobra unit is within 1.5%, so this would not cause issues.
Matt:
My MAF is different from the one you have posted as there is only a small metal plate attached to the center post and nothing else. I'm gonna let others try removing the post before I do it. The plate does not appear to interfere with air flow.
Mark
Launched Thursday July 19 2001:
http://www.SundayNiagara.com
BE THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My MAF is different from the one you have posted as there is only a small metal plate attached to the center post and nothing else. I'm gonna let others try removing the post before I do it. The plate does not appear to interfere with air flow.
Mark
Launched Thursday July 19 2001:
http://www.SundayNiagara.com
BE THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


