I only managed to break one plug, but it didn't break in ANY of the 3 ways as described in the TSB. My porcelain and electrode broke. I managed to break away enough of the porcelain that I was able to grab ahold of the electrode and pull it out. Then I glued a small SS screw down into the porcelain to pull it out. Then, is where my bad luck kicked in again; the screw broke instead of the porcelain pulling out. It left only about 1/4" of the screw sticking out of the porcelain. I can grab it with long-nosed pliers, but it will not budge. I drilled out some 3/8" allthread and am JB welding it to it overnight, but I don't think it is going to hold. If anyone knows another way I can get the broke screw that is adhered to the porcelain, I would really appreciate it. At this point, it's looking like i'm going to be pulling the head.

BTW, the TSB says it should take 33 ft/lbs to loosen the plugs. BS!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was twisting my extentions using a ratchet. Even though the TSB sayed not to use air tools, I had to use a 1/2" Ingersoll-Rand impact with 150 psi of air to break them loose and it was having to work its a$$ off.

Anyways, any help as to what I should do next would be greatly appreciated.

 

Damn, these stories give me nightmares. Makes me want to kick ford in the *****

How did you get the electrode out and not the porcelain?
I would try the setup you have going, drill out the bottom of the allthread, maybe even tap it to fit the screw end (if it was a machine screw) jb weld it, then put a big washer on top along with a nut and use it like a puller. It might just break the screw again or a chunk of porcelain..

 

I hate to say this but you are screwed and I would say the heads are going to have to get pulled. I know my ford dealer had one break and they were able to dismount the engine, move it foward and get a better angle at then. I really hope it works out for you though

 

I'm with Toyz, How did you get the electrode out without the porcelain? That just doesn't make sense. The only thing holding the porcelain in is the electrode barrel. Electrode out, I don't understand how the porcelain could stay in, what is it holding onto? The ground strap crosses under the porcelain. Also, if you had to use a 1/2 in impact w/150 lbs of air, are you sure the threads didn't come out with the plugs? This whole story just doesn't make sense.

 

I don't understand it either, but I recall Quintin mentioning something about turning the engine over to pop something out. Not sure if the problem is the same as, - but it worked for him. You may want to look thru Quintin's posts or PM him if you can.

 

Yeah, run the engine. Disconnect the injector to that cylinder and run the **** out of it. Rig your extractor rod thingy up and hold the throttle at about 2K or so for 15-20 minutes, then try to extract it, the heat will help it come out a little easier.

I've had them break like that before as well. I used the Rotunda tool with loctite and the hardened pins that fit in the hole where the electrode goes, it works, but the Lisle tool works better.

 

I think the OP means the electrode from the center of the plug, not the electrode sleeve.
The Lisle tool is what should be used used in this scenario, no head removal is needed. My Ford dealer hasn't had to do any crazy stuff like that to remove these plugs. That's nuts.

 

The porcelain and electrode broke in half. I broke away some of the remaining porcelain in the head and my 3/8" tap managed to grab the remaining electrode and pull it out. Then I glued the small screw into the hole in the center of the porcelain that remained, just like the TSB shows. Only thing is the porcelain is hung up in the remaining metal piece of the plug and won't come out for nothing. I've turned over the motor, i've froze it with freon to shrink it, i've pulled on it like a SOB. This thing is in there good.

 

Hello.

Ok.

I think Q's methodology applies heat to help loosen that (chemical) bond, You mentioned 'turning over' the motor - but did you run it for the duration suggested to heat the area thoroughly? Perhaps some MC carb cleaner as well?

Good luck - man, I'd try anything before resorting to a head-pull.

MGD v5.0

 

As jbrew knows I just broke one plug off in my sons 06 5.4. I ordered the Lisle 65600 and should get it by this wednesday. Followed the TSB to the letter and still managed to break one. I still have 5 to go that I haven't tried to completely remove yet Good luck with yours.

 

Ahh, yes am I familiar with this scenario oh so well. My truck has been sitting for 7 weeks now, because of plug number 8. I have broken 2 lisle extractor tools on this plug. Tried turning it over for a minute or so, nothing happened. Maybe I will try Quintin's method and let it run at 2k rpms for 10 or fifteen minutes and see if I can get something down in there to yank it out cuz I do not want to have the heads pulled. Good luck and sorry for hijacking this post.

 

Check out the - Changing Ford Spark Plugs 4.6, 5.4, 6.8 blog lol. I shouldn't laugh, just sounded funny. Anyway, good info and linked resources. -

http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...-7-6/#more-122

 

It used to be that changing spark plugs was almost as easy as changing the oil! I mean, back in the day, you had to do a 'tune up' on your engine about every 15,000 miles and that was replacing the plugs and getting new points and a new condenser.. Then you had to set the dwell and adjust the jets on the carb if not rebuilding the carb entirely.....

Then they came out with electronic ignition and then you only had to change your plugs and rebuild your carb...

Then they came out with fuel injection and then you only had to replace your plugs...

Now you can go 100,000 miles on a set of plugs, but if you need to replace them, they all break off in the head (or launch themselves on their own) and then you need to pull the head to extract them......

Engines of today can go well over 200,000 miles before they need to be rebuilt, but now it's the spark plugs that cause all the problems when you try to replace them???

How is that advancing the technology of engines??

Mitch

 

Call me stupid, I don't care, this still doesn't make sense to me. How could you have pulled the remaining part of the electrode out (with the ground strap that goes UNDER the bottom of the porcelain)and the porcelain still be in there? Must be me, because no one else seemed confused by this, but I sure am! If you grabbed the remaining electrode with the 3/8 tab, it had to be the barrel, couldn't have been the center wire. If the porcelain is still in the "remaining metal piece of the plug" wouldn't that be the ground tube and porcelain inside of it and isn't that what the Lisle tool is designed to take out ALL TOGETHER???

 

No luck yesterday. The porcelain won't break for anything. I ordered the Lisle tool and it should be here tues. or wed. I'll let ya'll know what happens.