Do a search on Lisle 65600. From my understanding the electrode (wire) that goes thru the entire length of ceramic is usually still intact after the ceramic breaks off. Apparently you can grab the upper end with pliers and pull it straight out. When you use the Lisle tool the first step is to use the ceramic pusher that forces the remaining ceramic piece left in the barrel (electrode shield) down until it breaks the ground strap and moves past the broken strap for a short distance. Apparently it will not allow the ceramic piece to drop into the combustion chamber. This leaves the upper end of the barrel free of ceramic with a space about 1/4 inch or so for the next step in which you screw a self tapping bolt into that area. Now with the bolt securely threaded into the stainless barrel you can turn the nut on the unit to slowly draw the entire barrel and remaining ceramic unit out of the hole. Sounds good, I'm going to find out how good in a few days

 

Yea Dynotech, I'm quite familiar with how the Lisle works. The thing that puzzled me was him saying he pulled the electrode out with the 3/8 tap, and since the electrode is a relatively small wire, I couldn't see how he could extract that with a 3/8 tap. The barrel or sleeve, yes, but not the electrode. From the ones I've seen pictures of, the electrode usually comes out with the upper part of the plug since it IS attached to the metal connector that the COP sits on. Even if the plugs breaks both of the bottom pieces off (porcelain and sleeve), it normally doesn't hold on to the electrode wire. I think the problem was he was using some wrong nomenclature and it was confusing the issue. From my understanding the Lisle shouldn't push the porcelain THROUGH the ground strap, just push it tightly down into the strap which should give the tap threads on the tool just enough bite to get the bottom parts out. I have read 2 different posts by people who have used "Seafoam" for a couple of tanks before the plug change and had no breakage. I am not necessarily a champion of Seafoam (have never used it), but if it actually does it's thing enough to allow the plugs to come out whole, you bet your life I'd give it a try.

 

I don't know how it did it but the 3/8" tap managed to grab the remaining electrode and pull it out of the porcelain leaving the empty well in the porcelain.

 

code58 go to http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...ds-bad-design/ and check out their pics. It shows how the porcelin gets pushed thru the ground strap by the tool actually breaks the ground strap and bends it out of the way. I know I found it hard to believe as well. I'm certainly no expert on this issue as I know a lot of you guys have been doing these for some time now. I'm just getting as much info as I can on how this thing works because I have to use it here in a few days. Take care.

 

http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...ds-bad-design/ This is the site I don't know why the other one wouldn't open...

 

Dynotech- Clearly it pushes it through the ground strap in that picture. I would want to use a small hose on a powerful vacuum to make sure there was nothing left behind in the cylinder from any of the operation, whatever tool you used. Still seems to be the best removal tool on the market, and at a very fair price. The OP's explanation of how the 3/8 tap pulled the electrode out also makes sense now, even if rather unusual. Think positive Dyno, a lot of them come out without breaking, why not yours? My glass is always half full rather than half empty. (or maybe all the way full to the top!) Good Luck on the change!

 

The Lisle Tool is one bad MFer!!! It worked like a champ! I had beat up the inside of the spark plug well so bad that I couldn't even get the threads to start. I had to use a borescope to see the damage and clean everything up first, and the tool still worked. I just wish I bought it before I started because I would have saved myself 2 days of useless work and messing things up even worse. Props to Lisle on this one!

 

Thats great news I'm glad you had success. I have my Lisle sitting here ready to use. My son is in a Walleye tournament this weekend and had to travel so he wanted to wait and be here when I use the tool on his truck. Looks like early next week I'll give it a try. Hope the results are as good as yours. Take care.

 

Is he in that Samon Derby ? They use to call it that over in Muskegon.

 

At least my plugs will pop out on their own, I just have to inset new threads to put them back. 99 5.4L

Good luck guys, certainly makes me wonder about my next truck.

 

I would recommend holding a backup on the reverse thread tool that grabs the shield while you tighten down on the jam nut. This prevents the tool from tightening anymore while the shield is being extracted. It isn't the easiest to do, but I think that's how people are breaking the tool.

 

No jbrew he's after Walleye. The Detroit River, St Clair River, Lake Erie, Lake St Clair, and Saginaw Bay are the areas of most of his tournaments. Walleye now and then Muskies later in the summer. He usually does pretty good. Used to take me along but I couldn't even catch the minnows he had in the bucket for bait

 

There are no more spark plug issues. The 2V heads have had 8 threads since late 03 and the 3V heads have had a more conventional design (one piece plug, no ground sleeve, conventional electrodes) since mid 08.

 

Yea Salmon/ Walleye are the same fish here. I was outside earlier chasing garbage cans, man, it's gottuh be rough out on the water today lol. I use to do that, troll off Pier Market, fun stuff. Back then they were called Derby's. That was quite awhile ago. I can't recall the biggest I got, -I want to say 25" or so. Never won one, but came close.

 

Dyno- Is "hand catch" not allowed? Don't even have to worry about "bait'in" to catch the "bait" that way.