New Engine Break-In period

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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 08:46 AM
  #16  
DYNOTECH's Avatar
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by code58
Dynotech- I always appreciate your input because it gives us a look at the technical side of engine "hows and why's" as well as forensics that you mention from time to time. I wasn't thinking of towing when I said "work it". I agree with their guidelines concerning when you should be able to tow. I actually was going to post the link that is posted right below your post. I know this was motorcycles but still very valid principal concerning seating rings in and the power produced by properly seated rings. I worked in a Ford dealership back in the mid-late 60's. They had a fair amount of problems with chrome rings not seating (that problem had existed for a quite a while before that) and Ford had to pay to re-ring them. The mechanics didn't want to have a redo of their re-ring so they devised a way to avoid that. They put the piston with the rings in dry ( I realize it got oil splash about the second revolution ) and no water in the radiator. They started it and held the water hose (with press valve) right over the rad opening and revved it repeatedly to about 25-2800 RPM while watching the exhaust. The second they saw the smoke (minor-mod.) disappear they dumped the water to it at idle. They broke it in right in their stall!. They did quite a few re-rings back then (and the warrantee was only 12&12K) and never ever had a complaint about oil consumption on any done that way. I'm sure Ford probably wouldn't have approved of it but it worked.
Likewise I enjoy reading all the input on this site from others. I grewup working on the Ford 289s 302s Chevy 283s 327s 396s etc. because I was broke and if I didn't do the repairs myself I walked. After working at Fords for 35 years you realize that the internal combustion engine basics have not changed from the very first original engines. No matter what latest and greatest ideas they come up with, engines are still for the most part piston powered with a crankshaft, cams, valves etc. To me the real experts are the people such as those on this site that work on these engines everyday, modify them for racing and trouble shoot some very tough problems concerning drivability. I sit here many times completely in awe at the knowledge out there that some of these guys have regarding these trucks, and their powertrains. Its these guys that roll up their sleeves and turn the wrenchs that I'll put my money on. I have personally learned a wealth of things from them and I hope to learn even more. Take care.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #17  
FATHERFORD's Avatar
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From: Waco/Houston
My break in method for all my engines...

Slightly idle 2-3 minute break in on first start up, unless we are talking OG and need to break in a new cam with flat tappet lifters... Drive a mile at slow speeds listening for noise. Basically getting the engine up to operating temperatures.

Stop the car in the middle of the road, and do a nice smokey burnout launch and drive it like you stole it....

When I picked up my truck, it just had a few miles on it. The dealer asked if I wanted to take it for a test drive before I Signed the papers. I said sure.... When I pulled out on the road, I did a massive burnout then pulled right back into the dealer and said, "I'll take it!" by the next week I had a tuner, cai, magnaflow catback, and nitrous installed.
 

Last edited by FATHERFORD; Mar 25, 2010 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 03:40 AM
  #18  
code58's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: So. Cal.
Originally Posted by FATHERFORD
My break in method for all my engines...

Slightly idle 2-3 minute break in on first start up, unless we are talking OG and need to break in a new cam with flat tappet lifters... Drive a mile at slow speeds listening for noise. Basically getting the engine up to operating temperatures.

Stop the car in the middle of the road, and do a nice smokey burnout launch and drive it like you stole it....

When I picked up my truck, it just had a few miles on it. The dealer asked if I wanted to take it for a test drive before I Signed the papers. I said sure.... When I pulled out on the road, I did a massive burnout then pulled right back into the dealer and said, "I'll take it!" by the next week I had a tuner, cai, magnaflow catback, and nitrous installed.
A lot of people would call that stupid and destructive to the engine. My approach would probably be a little different, but if that won't get the rings forced out against the cylinder walls, nothing will. And a lot of people don't realize that the better the rings are seated, the more efficient the engine is and the better power it will develop. So long as there isn't galling from too hot, too early, I believe the link about motorcycle break in's is totally valid. I don't believe in "babying" a new vehicle.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #19  
PeterTheWolf's Avatar
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Originally Posted by greencrew
.... For example honing technology has come a long way. The cylinder is sized to the piston during honing, and three grades of stone are used to hone the cylinder and that is followed by a brush....
bookmark

in this video I did not see any torque plate on this block while honing .... that poor guy will have a distorted block once he gets it back and torques his heads on.
 
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