Just did one, thought i'd write it down, seems like it's going to be a popular repair.

Remove/drop spare tire.
With 8mm socket, remove module, or the stumps of whats left of the mounting bosses. It's slightly bigger than a pack of smokes, and it's facing rearward.
Unplug
Cut a piece of thick plastic from something cut it to fit for the aluminum side of the new part. Punch out holes for the bolts.
Have some washers at hand for the mounting bolts.

The real problem is that it's a piece of aluminum bolted to a piece of steel. Dis-similar metal corrosion builds up in-between the bar and the module and the pressure cracks it open like a steamed clam. It fills up with more corrosion, water, salt ect, and shorts out. That's why it needs something, like plastic between the different metals.

Also, to make matters worse, it does'nt sit flat on the bar. There is more pressure on the outboard bolt contributing to it breaking open. That's why you need washers to put on the outboard bolt side between the plastic and the bar, so it sits evenly on the bar.

The part number is 9D370. Retail is $117.03 I found a diagram and the price ect @ Fordparts.com.

It's also a good idea to clean the spare tire bead, check the pessure, and lube the key lock and tire cable too.

 

The new modules are also on national backorder, with ETA in May. Good luck finding them.

 

Relocate it to a dry place? Engine compartment?

.

 

This is going to be a problem with all of the NBS trucks, 04-08 anyway. I took mine off over the weekend (07) and it wouldn't be long before it would have gone to 'module heaven'. What I did was to clean as much of the 'crud' possible from all of the aluminum and sanded the mount on the frame where it bolts down. I then coated both surfaces with Motorcraft Anti-Corrosion Coating (Fomoco # PM-13-A) (two coats) and let them dry. Also put a couple of flat washers under the module bolts so that it wouldn't sit directly on the frame. Not sure how widespread this problem is going to be, but if you live in an area where they use salt/calcium on the roads it's a good bet you need to be checking these.

 

Good post. If anyone is having the problem, be sure to check out the How To thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...placement.html

 

I did'nt have any problem getting a module. I did'nt know there was a problem getting them until i just found a thread last night titled "truck does'nt run" or something like that.

I called my local Ford dealer, asked about the module, he said "sure, i have one, but the mounting is different". I said, "i could'nt care less" and had the part delivered. When i got the part, it had two threaded studs sticking out of it. I put it in a vice, took a punch and drove the studs out, part was then identical to the broken module.

I called back today and asked why is this part a big deal? He said the part number for the F150 is on back order. The part he sold me was for a Super Duty. Part number 6C2Z-9D372-A. Same module, with mounting studs, so the part number is different. He also sold it to me for $92.52 + tax. Because of the way the Super Duty module mounts, it won't break. So either check availability for that part number, or get one from a boneyard.

Because my parts guy can think outside the "box", i'm running. He said otherwise, it would be mid-April, best case senario.

 

Yipes! Mid-April?

I guess I'd better have a look at my Fuel Pump Driver! Fortunately, my truck has lived in Arizona all it's life, so it shouldn't have been exposed to TOO much corroding influence. Still, it doesn't take a lot and that's not a very "clean" place to mount it is it?

I agree the engine compartment seems a better choice, but we'd need to splice in a fair amount of wiring to get there. Looks to me like the new "standoff" mounting is going to be better though.

- Jack

 

Just had my module replaced not to long ago and now the problem came back I went under and found that the plug connectors are green and the wires are peeled and they are green
Does anybody know if I can buy a new plug with pigtails so I can splice in to get my truck up and running again????

 

Yeah, I know, this is an old thread. I'm just posting a link to the Dorman fuel pump module pigtail repair kit in case someone else finds they need a new pigtail for the FPM and runs across this thread in their search.