Fuel Pump Driver Module Replacement
Fuel Pump Driver Module Replacement
I'm posting to remind you to check the electronic fuel controller for corrosion.
.....before it craps out while you're driving.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-its-pics.html
.....before it craps out while you're driving.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-its-pics.html
Kept forgetting to upload these pictures.
The Fuel Pump Driver Module Kit ( driver module & new stand off style bolts )
Check if the part number has changed with a newer one

Wide picture to show where it is located. The spare tire is lowered, and you can see the cable for the spare tire crank on the right side of the picture.

Mine had quite a bit of corrosion under it, and made a mess out of it. Good thing I ordered a new one for the heck of it, I am sure I was close to being stranded. The PCB in the module did not crack.... yet

The revision 2 module installed. I only had to clean off the cross member, did not have to angle grind it like the directions stated to do.

I hosed down the cross member with some S100 corrosion protector prior to installing the new one.
One thing I will disagree with mjb1032's method in the thread linked above, do not put a plastic bag around the module.
Temperature swings will cause the bag to condensate, and might damage the module. If moisture can escape from the bag, it is useless ( it is open some how ).
The module exposed to the elements is not the problem, the module being mounted flat to the metal cross member, and I am guessing dissimilar metal corrosion causes a build up behind the module, pushing it out and cracking it.
The new mounting method from Ford is to include the stand offs already, so no need to space off with DIY parts.
The Fuel Pump Driver Module Kit ( driver module & new stand off style bolts )
Check if the part number has changed with a newer one

Wide picture to show where it is located. The spare tire is lowered, and you can see the cable for the spare tire crank on the right side of the picture.

Mine had quite a bit of corrosion under it, and made a mess out of it. Good thing I ordered a new one for the heck of it, I am sure I was close to being stranded. The PCB in the module did not crack.... yet

The revision 2 module installed. I only had to clean off the cross member, did not have to angle grind it like the directions stated to do.

I hosed down the cross member with some S100 corrosion protector prior to installing the new one.
One thing I will disagree with mjb1032's method in the thread linked above, do not put a plastic bag around the module.
Temperature swings will cause the bag to condensate, and might damage the module. If moisture can escape from the bag, it is useless ( it is open some how ).
The module exposed to the elements is not the problem, the module being mounted flat to the metal cross member, and I am guessing dissimilar metal corrosion causes a build up behind the module, pushing it out and cracking it.
The new mounting method from Ford is to include the stand offs already, so no need to space off with DIY parts.
The stock bolt ( not the studs with the stand offs in the revision 2 module ) length is 30 mm for the surface mount method in the revision 1 of the mounting. This is a self tapping bolt from the factory ( where the revision 2 stand off studs are not, they are standard bolts ).
The flange head on the bolt ( non rotating washer type ) is 13 mm wide.
A 5/16-18 nut is just about the same size as the bolt head, which is about 6 mm thick ( the 18-8 ones I had were ), which means a M6 x 1.0 x 35 or M6 x 1.0 x 40 bolt should do the trick.
Last edited by SSCULLY; Mar 21, 2010 at 10:05 PM.
My module isn't cracked but has corrosion so I went to the Dealer (Superior Ford Plymouth,MN), they said it's factory back ordered til May. Only shows 4 dealers in the world with them in stock. $138.09 prepaid as an emergency order so I should get one of the first available.
If you can't find the F150 part, the one for a super duty can be modified according to this post: https://www.f150online.com/forums/4125076-post6.html
Notice it has the part number.
- Jack
Notice it has the part number.
- Jack
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Sir - did you pop it off and have a look at the back? These are failing in 2 ways - either outright cracking due to corrosion growth between the frame crossmember and the FPDM & leverage of same, or the thin aluminum backplate corroding through - which you can only see clearly if it is removed.
Best bet is to do as suggested, and as kindly shown by Yellow STX - install the standoffs.

MGD v5.0
I was laughing at the bag that says genuine Ford parts, made in Taiwan, I checked mine this morning when I put the shackles on and it's wasted, Back is totally gone, calling ford in morning. Try the super duty one
Hello!
Sir - did you pop it off and have a look at the back? These are failing in 2 ways - either outright cracking due to corrosion growth between the frame crossmember and the FPDM & leverage of same, or the thin aluminum backplate corroding through - which you can only see clearly if it is removed.
Best bet is to do as suggested, and as kindly shown by Yellow STX - install the standoffs.

MGD v5.0
Sir - did you pop it off and have a look at the back? These are failing in 2 ways - either outright cracking due to corrosion growth between the frame crossmember and the FPDM & leverage of same, or the thin aluminum backplate corroding through - which you can only see clearly if it is removed.
Best bet is to do as suggested, and as kindly shown by Yellow STX - install the standoffs.

MGD v5.0
I gotta say mines not cracked but if you really crawl under and look the back is gone, and i mean gone. I'm gonna order the one for the super duty tomorrow and if it does fit will post pics and the pic of mine. Not taking it out yet cause I work in garage and need to move truck in and out.
This is not a rant.




