Yea, Iduno, - should confirm that it is indeed misfiring first, -if so, test fuel pressure as well. Could be a coincidental I guess.

You can try cleaning any electrical connectors that was played with. Sometimes just disconnecting and reconnecting can cause a problem if dirty.

To much grease in a plug boot ? Around the contact ?

You said you didn't disconnect the battery right away, so you didn't ground out anywhere ? No fireballs or big flashes ?

If it's missing, you can also insert an old plug into the plug wire and ground it with alligator clips to the stud at the front of the engine, -verify spark, but you really shouldn't need to do that. A dead hole will produce a DTC right away.

Well, you should be able to find the problem with all that's been posted.

Confirm that your CEL works. Turn your key to run without starting, your CEL should be on when doing so. Check all MAXI fuses as well. Those can blow specially if you didn't disconnect right away.

 

Hi JBrew,

Yes, it was running fine before I messed with it. The only reason for changing the plugs was MPG had gone from about 17 (highway) to 12 mpg on my last road-trip to Idaho.

 

Do you think it could be caused by the new plugs on the passenger side and the old plugs on the drivers side?

 

Nope.

 

I wonder if you installed the correct plugs. There are short threads on some plugs and longer threads on some sparkplugs. If the threads are to long the plug can make contact with the piston.

 

Ok I'm only a day late and a dollar short. I didn't read the first part of this thread. I just did and see you guys already addressed the correct sparkplug issue

 

Yea, think we covered everything DT. Not sure what else it could be..?

 

I was reading about an anti knock sensor somewhere on the engine. Is this on the passenger side and can be causing the knocking?

thanks

 

I think you need to go over your work again. Take some pics if you can. I'll post them if you want. Or go over this thread and double check things. Not sure what else there is.

 

Hi JBrew,

Went through all the suggestions and believe the #1 is the culprit.

I removed the spark plug wire while running and hear the spark arching against the wall but do not discern a difference in the motor clanking.

Thoughts on next steps to test this cylinder.

thanks

 

Clean every thing up again on #1. Check the resistance on the plug wire, -compare resistance to #5, then #2 plug wires since their easy to get to.

Eventually check that entire side if the problem isn't worked out. Is your MAF wires connected? How about your IAT , did that get plugged back in. Or didn't you remove the air intake. ? The compression and fuel pressure is good then? What were the numbers?

 

Hi JBrew

Here's what I did today.

1. Changed the #1 plug - No change
2. Changed the #1 plug wire - No Change
3. Removed the fan belt (saw you recommeded this on another post) - no change

Examined the removed plug and noticed it smelled of gas and had already started to develop a tan/brown discoloration on one side. Also noticed that only the bottom 4-5 threads of the plug are engaging threads on the head (is this normal?)

clacking noise disappears as the engine rev's up

I need to get a compression gauge tomorrow.

thanks

 

Take one of the sparkplugs out of the opposite head and compare them with the new plugs you just installed. Look at length of threads etc.

 

I just tested the resistance of the 4 old plugs I removed. They ranged from 4.0 to 4.1.

The new Motorcrafts that I installed range from 6.8 to 7.1

Assuming the 4 old plugs still on the drivers will have similar readings, do you think this could be contributing to my knocking problem?

thanks

 

What are the exact numbers on the new plugs?