Not sure if this should be here or over in Electrical systems. Forst, the story as to the problem, then what i have done so far.

The family was going on a trip taking the 2004 Super Crew F-150 4.6L Auto, so the wife went to clean it when i was at work. She said she had it running for around 20min when washing the windows and such. The next day, I went to remove the Boss plow, and when I started it, the motor didn't turn over. The dash displays "Check Gauges" and the wrench engine light comes on. I thought it seemed as thought the truck was in gear, so moved the Auto shifter a couple times, still no go.

Here is what I have done so far. I had just put in a new battery, so tested it out, and tried a different battery, no luck. I rearranged the relays in the fuse panel, nothing. Removed the starter, cleaned the posts and tested it, by jumping the small lead to the large on the solenoid, the started engages and turns over. Next I used a volt meter and test the two leads at the point they mount to the solenoid. The large one carried 12.5v and the small lead was at 2.5v. Had the wife turn the starter, and they small lead says at 2.5v.

Now, I think this is the problem, as it should go to 12.5v to start the truck. So I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch is at fault here. I did try three different keys so not think the keys are at fault.

Ended up taking the Focus on the trip, so typing this from the motel room. Hopefully I'll be able to fix this, as it is snowing back home

 

Allamand- Sorry, but this is a pet peeve of mine and I think probably a lot of other members also, but when a new member comes looking for help PLEASE fill out your profile COMPLETELY. We don't need to know what size underwear you wear or what you had for breakfast, but we do need to know all pertinent information about miles on the truck, where you live (what weather has done to a vehicle makes a huge difference), history of truck (bought new or used) and anything else that will help us help you. One of the 1st things I would suggest for any car or truck owner with a vehicle that has been built in the last 10-12 years is to buy a scanner (code reader) so that you can read the codes and have some idea of what the truck is telling you rather than throwing parts at it or running from one end to the other trying things. A usable scanner or code reader can be had for $50.-$100. I will test tomorrow and see what voltage the small lead carries on my truck ('04)

 

Boy, really hate them pet peeves, hope filling in the info helps. Thanks also for taking the time to check the voltage on your truck. Of course I am looking into a scanner, as i would not pay the garage to do it knowing i could buy a new tool for more then likely less then what the garage would charge for a scanner.

Of course, in the 4 years of owning this truck, have not needed a scanner yet

Do you have a favorite one, or a list of good scanners to look at getting, as i know some are not very great, and just not worth buying.

 

Your truck had a snow plow. Could you have tripped the Inertia Switch and disabled the fuel pump?

.

 

Allamand- Sorry, it was a busy weekend and I got distracted with another issue. I did check today and there is no voltage to the smaller wire- I didn't think there could be because that is the solenoid wire (starts the sequence when you turn the key to start) and should be dead unless the key is turned to "start" position.
I don't know if you have a Costco anywhere near you or not, or if you belong, but they have a very useable little scanner/code reader for $30.+ dollars. Definitely a good deal. I have a professional scanner and though I've never had to use it on my truck, I definitely have used it and wouldn't want to be without one with the complexity of today's cars and trucks. Good luck on fixing the truck, if it's not already done.

 

Just getting home now from SD, will take a look at the voltage again today, as I was in a hurry before I left, and see if i had 2.5v all the time, or just when the wife was turning it over. No costco by me, but will look around the net for one.

As for the plow, just so everyone knows, it is only a 7' Boss Sport plow, so it is madefor a 1/2 ton, and only plow my drive. O drove the truck in the garage and parked it, plus the wife did have it idling the day before, so I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is working. I will post an update after I have the started checked out.

 

Starter checked out okay. code58, you stated there was no voltage on the small wire to the solenoid, and I believe that is the problem. I tested it again, and it was all over the place! It will read as low as 1.4v and up to 8.2, never reaching 12volts, and didn't matter if the key was turned to start or not.

 

check the inertia switch as stated above...

 

Allamand,
It's possible that your problems are coming from the fuel pump controller.
Check out this post.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-its-pics.html
Good Luck, Let us know when and how you solve(d) the problem.

 

are you taking about the trigger wire on the starter solenoid or the solenoid on the fire wall ?.

 

"fuel pump controller", that is what they say
I asked why the starter wasn't working, and was told there was a blown
fuse, I looked at the fuses in the inside passenger side, so plan to ask them
which one it was when i pick the truck up.

 

They don't use one on the firewall any more do they?

 

There is a relay, but not as compared to the old fender relays. The new relays simply pass power to the S terminal of the starter solenoid and is likely located in the SJB or PDB (or sometimes called battery junction box). The starter solenoid now does the job what the old fender relays used to do.

 

Well, I talked some more with the mechanic, and I guess the fuse was the one for the PCM (Will find out which one when i pick up the truck), as i guess that when the fuel pump controller went out, that it took that fuse with it, thus why it wouldn't turn over. Now, I was told that they believe the fuel pump froze up, and that is what killed the fuel pump controller, as they had to tap on the fuel pump to get it working. Also, I am wondering how they tapped on the pump if it's above the tank?

I have read where these fuel pump controller's go out, haven't looked into the fuel pumps yet to see if they have issues as well. They want over $550 to install a new Fuel Pump, which I can pickup one online for $235 and install it myself.

 

How did they tap on the fuel pump if it's inside the tank? Are you really sure these guys eyes aren't crossed? I can understand the controller going out, in your area of the country. (that's why I asked for complete information originally) But having worked in automotive most of my life, I can tell you if these guys nose grew each time they told a lie, most of them wouldn't be able to turn around no matter how bad they wanted to.