Allamand,
Did you happen to see if your fuel pump controller was corroded like I found mine to be?
How can you be sure it wasn't JUST the controller?
And they're hitting you up for a part that you can't see (to even tell if it has been replaced?)
I'd ask to take your old pump with you.
I've heard stories of garages keeping old parts, bad gas in jars, etc. just to keep displaying over and over to "prove" their work!
Don't be taken for a fool.....this stuff happens!

A quick (and true) story!
A few years ago I took my F150 to a shop for an alignment and an inspection sticker.
They called me up...."your truck's all set".
After I had paid, I noticed the paperwork didn't include the alignment
print-out, (shows the normal limits and what your vehicle was set at).
He said "the printer isn't working". OK....that is possible....but I thought...let's just check underneath to see that it's been done.
SURE ENOUGH....not ONE wrench mark ANYWHERE on the front end adjusters!!
He told me to calm down....that they use new (get-this!) "non-marking" tools!!! OMf'inG.....What kind of fool did they think I am!!!
After I threatened to call a TV station to expose his scheme, he said "OK, bring the truck back tomorrow". The next day I WATCHED as they marked up the front adjusters doing the alignment properly.
AND suddenly...the printer worked too!

Rule of the story.....keep your eyes open wide....this stuff happens.

 

That is why I told the guy i would pick the truck up, since they got the pump working, by tapping on it. I guess i can always tap on it if it gets stuck, right

I will be picking the truck up sometime today and let you know how the controller looks on the outside, they did say it smelt burnt. Again, if the fuel pump did stick, would it not blow a fuse before toasting a $125 controller?

Also of note, being it is a SuperCrew, the fuel pump is listed at $377 for a 139" wheel base, but the 126" & 133" ones cost $320

So how can 6" make such a difference? Please, don't ask your wife's

 

I'm guessing here, but maybe the Crew has a larger tank, and therefore the fuel pump is configured differently.
Maybe it has a longer pick-up tube, or larger filter area.

 

So, the truck is home, and from what i was told, they hit the bottom of the tank, where the fuel pickup would be for the fuel pump, as it is only a inch or so from the bottom of the tank.

The fuse was #34, the PCM power and fuel injector's. The module was corroded on the outside, but could not see any cracks. The guy at the shop, whom also has a 04 f-150 ordered one for his truck, and he should it to me as well, over a third of the back side GONE! Guess with the salt up here, and above the spare tire, these get eaten up pretty badly.

So, the million dollar question is, is this pump sticking a one time deal? Like the left front rotor that would stick when i parked the truck for a few weeks at a time(Did replace that BTW).

Also of note, i plan to replace the fuel filter tomorrow after work. Was told that it is more then likely dirty, and was causing the fuel pump to work harder, then overheat, and take out the module, at least that is how the mechanic put it.

 

I bet that the fuel pump controller was the culprit all along.
I would just drive it and see what happens.

I replaced the fuel filter on my truck at 30K miles and then again at 70K.
Out of curiosity, I cut open the old filter (the second one, 40K on it) to see how it looked inside.
It looked totally clean. For the record--I usually don't go below 1/4 tank and I always get mid-grade gas.
A reminder.....
Make sure the truck has been off for a while so there won't be any residual pressure in the line.
You'll also need those push-in line releasers to disconnect the fuel line.
Have a container there to catch the gas that will come out.
(There might even be a "How To" on this in that section)

 

Cutting open a filter isn't going to tell you how it's filtering. Every 15,000 miles will keep the stress off the pump

Should run the octane rating your tuned for, she'll run better for yuh -via tune.