Actron u381 code scanner
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From: Schenectady, NY
I don't even really notice it in the lower gears. It's not 'till I get int' 4th and 5th it does it, but just under light load. If I press on the gas pedal in overdrive it does it 'till it downshifts, then goes away. That service engine light really resists coming on, it finally flashed last night but I haven't seen it since. I found out the scanner I ordered is at my post office, so I should be connecting it soon. If the light flashes and doesn't come back on, is the code still available to be read by the scanner?
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From: Schenectady, NY
Maybe just some of them then? I have the 5.4, is yours a 4.6 or V6??
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From: Schenectady, NY
That called a "low grade" misfire. That's' a Blinking CheckEngineLight ( Your CEL will blink, it will blink during occurrence only, then shut back off, -IF your computer picks it up)
The only way I've been able to generate is to push the engine when it starts to act up. Sounds crude, but it doesn't hurt it, as long as you don't keep doing so over an over again.
A low grade misfire usually happens @ 45 -50 mph, right after the shift into OD under normal acceleration. When it begins to shudder, you give it more fuel to enhance until your light begins blinking. Once she winks at yuh,you have a DTC stored in your KAM (KeepAliveMemory), whether your CEL remains on or not.
So if your CEL has ever blinked, scan it to direct you to the problem cylinder. A blinking CEL means one thing ONLY = Misfire and your computer (Misfire Monitor) has detected this.
One thing to remember, if indeed your CEL has blinked and the scan didn't show DTC. You must get it to blink during the misfire ONE more time. Then your sure to have a DTC stored in the KAM- scan one more time....Bingo! - Sometimes you have to get this to occur twice within the same drive cycle.
The only way I've been able to generate is to push the engine when it starts to act up. Sounds crude, but it doesn't hurt it, as long as you don't keep doing so over an over again.
A low grade misfire usually happens @ 45 -50 mph, right after the shift into OD under normal acceleration. When it begins to shudder, you give it more fuel to enhance until your light begins blinking. Once she winks at yuh,you have a DTC stored in your KAM (KeepAliveMemory), whether your CEL remains on or not.
So if your CEL has ever blinked, scan it to direct you to the problem cylinder. A blinking CEL means one thing ONLY = Misfire and your computer (Misfire Monitor) has detected this.
One thing to remember, if indeed your CEL has blinked and the scan didn't show DTC. You must get it to blink during the misfire ONE more time. Then your sure to have a DTC stored in the KAM- scan one more time....Bingo! - Sometimes you have to get this to occur twice within the same drive cycle.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
Just screwing around with coils/ swapping them and such can cause another to shear one to many windings. Then it's like domino's. An old set can't take to much of the crap.
That's why it better to swap them all out at this point, their old and tired. Coils are so cheap, it doesn't make sense to do it any other way.
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From: Schenectady, NY
Well I spray the undercarriage when I wash, could that be ruining these things?
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From: Joplin MO
Why are you being so stubborn? You have been given excellent advice by several very knowledgeable members here, including one of the board's most respected experts on the 5.4, but you are still spinning your wheels trying to chase down this issue and buying one coil at a time at a ridiculous price - and spending $65 on a scanner (which is what a FULL SET of OEM quality coils will cost you).
Just bite the bullet and order up a set and be done with it. Change them ALL and toss the old ones in a box for spares.
When you change them apply dielectric grease properly.
Another contributing factor to a low grade misfire can be use of ANY spark plugs other than the OEM Motorcrafts or one of the good brands of iridiums (NGK, Denso). Generally, using Bosch or Autolite is a no-no. If you do have stock plugs with over about 50k on them, that doesn't help either.
Your engine also has a history of plug blowout issues due to the heads only having 4 threads. To minimize that risk, use only Motorcraft SP-series platinums with nickel-plated threads, do NOT use anti-seize, and torque them dry to 28 ft/lb.
Just bite the bullet and order up a set and be done with it. Change them ALL and toss the old ones in a box for spares.
When you change them apply dielectric grease properly.
Another contributing factor to a low grade misfire can be use of ANY spark plugs other than the OEM Motorcrafts or one of the good brands of iridiums (NGK, Denso). Generally, using Bosch or Autolite is a no-no. If you do have stock plugs with over about 50k on them, that doesn't help either.
Your engine also has a history of plug blowout issues due to the heads only having 4 threads. To minimize that risk, use only Motorcraft SP-series platinums with nickel-plated threads, do NOT use anti-seize, and torque them dry to 28 ft/lb.
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From: Schenectady, NY
Why are you being so stubborn? You have been given excellent advice by several very knowledgeable members here, including one of the board's most respected experts on the 5.4, but you are still spinning your wheels trying to chase down this issue and buying one coil at a time at a ridiculous price - and spending $65 on a scanner (which is what a FULL SET of OEM quality coils will cost you).
Just bite the bullet and order up a set and be done with it. Change them ALL and toss the old ones in a box for spares.
When you change them apply dielectric grease properly.
Another contributing factor to a low grade misfire can be use of ANY spark plugs other than the OEM Motorcrafts or one of the good brands of iridiums (NGK, Denso). Generally, using Bosch or Autolite is a no-no. If you do have stock plugs with over about 50k on them, that doesn't help either.
Your engine also has a history of plug blowout issues due to the heads only having 4 threads. To minimize that risk, use only Motorcraft SP-series platinums with nickel-plated threads, do NOT use anti-seize, and torque them dry to 28 ft/lb.
Just bite the bullet and order up a set and be done with it. Change them ALL and toss the old ones in a box for spares.
When you change them apply dielectric grease properly.
Another contributing factor to a low grade misfire can be use of ANY spark plugs other than the OEM Motorcrafts or one of the good brands of iridiums (NGK, Denso). Generally, using Bosch or Autolite is a no-no. If you do have stock plugs with over about 50k on them, that doesn't help either.
Your engine also has a history of plug blowout issues due to the heads only having 4 threads. To minimize that risk, use only Motorcraft SP-series platinums with nickel-plated threads, do NOT use anti-seize, and torque them dry to 28 ft/lb.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
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From: MI
I just got done putting a new one, I really didn't want to wait another week. It was the first cop I changed, and one of the easy ones because it was the #3 plug. I also learned that the firing order is easy to remember on these motors, 1-4 and 5-8 right in a row. The reason I got the scanner it to find out which one it is, and to also diagnose possible different issues without spending extra at a garage. I had the spark plugs changed with Motorcraft platinums, and I instructed the mechanic that put them in not to use anti-seize and to use the Motorcraft plugs, thanks to the advice of the knowledgeable folks on here..he would have used the anti-seize otherwise. This site really is a valuable source of information and I do appreciate the help.
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From: Schenectady, NY
It came on after I wrote that, it got so bad that after I left the auto parts store it was spuddering in first gear..like it was anticipating getting a new cop. So I guess that makes your statement a bunch of crap.
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From: Schenectady, NY
Hey Norm you never did say, should I avoid spraying water under the frame so that I don't get the ignition wet?
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From: MI
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From: Schenectady, NY
Is there a safe way to steam clean the motor in this thing, or should I not bother with it? I haven't done that yet and I don't want to short out my whole ignition system.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Utah
people (including myself) do it. Avoid the top of the engine. Avoid soaking the top of the engine with degreasers (removes the dielectric grease that insulates the electronics) avoid soaking the top of the engine period.. do it at your own risk..