Ok, I have a 99 Navigator with 5.4 dohc. I posted on here over a year ago that I was having problems with my motor. What I thought was a blown head gasket turned into a crack in the cyclinder wall. With that said, it took me over a year to finally start it, but last weekend I put in another motor. It has 61k on it and came out of a 2000 Nav. I used the intake and egr from the original engine. I started off with a P0171 lean code. I didn't post about it because I searched and needed a few hours to read all of the posts regarding this problem. Funny thing is I did find a vacuum leak on the pcv line where the elbow meets the intake. It didn't fix the problem.

The truck runs a little better with that vacuum leak fixed but still shutters under low rpm acceleration. At 40 mph and up it is aweful. The whole truck shakes. I am now pulling a P0300 multiple cylinder missfire which I was actually waiting for. There was no way the engine should run as bad as it was with just a lean code for bank one.

The boneyard told me this engine ran well without any problems. The engine I pulled out did not have any error codes when it came out. I only checked it out because the radiator was full of motor oil.

I am looking to purchase a better scanner to view fuel trims and verify that i screwed something up installing the intake manifold. It has to be the source of my vacuum leak and lean code. As for the multiple cylinder missfire, I'm hoping driving it a little farther will provide me with exact cylinder missfires not a generic multiple cylinder missfire.

Looking for any suggestions or guidance from anyone with more experience than me. Also looking for suggestions on the least expensive scanner that can give me real time sensor info and at least fuel trims to finish with this aweful truck.

 

Did you reboot the computer after fixing the vacuum leak? what plugs did you use? how about the coils? Junkyard stuff? Might have sat out some and got weathered. might just replace them. Is this the 2v or 4v nav motor?

 

sounds like plug coil packs to me. i agree with jethat cars and trucks in junkyards normaly sit hood off in the weather and engine compants get rained on sun snow everything so either a coil or 2 is gone *order a set of 8 from global 100 bucks or so * and change plugs 40 bucks for all the plugs. thats were i would start.

if i was to ever get a junkyard motor id do oil chang plugs wires and coils no matter what the junkyard guys said.

 

I agree, I should have changed the plugs when the motor was sitting on the stand. I am just very short on cash and was trying to save a buck or two when I shouldn't have. This is the 4V Nav engine. I had it sitting on the engine stand in my garage for almost a year now before putting it in. There is a very good possibility that a plug or coil is bad. I'm hoping it's just a coincidence that the scanner pulled up a cylinder 4 missfire after the multiple missfire. That is the same cylinder that caused all this mess with the engine I removed. Had a crack in the cylinder wall. The plugs and coils in it are the same ones that were on the engine that came from the junkyard. I plan on picking up all new plugs today. I have the 8 coils from the bad engine I removed. All 8 coils were working well and a couple had been replaced due to failure shortly before I discovered the cracked block.

I didn't come up with another lean code after fixing the vacuum leak. Not to say it isn't going to come back though. I was assuming there was a missfire the entire time as the engine would shake the entire truck pretty violently around 45 mph. Just a simple lean code shouldn't cause the engine to run that poorly unless there are other problems. I am hoping that there isn't a leak in the intake gasket. I'm certain the lower was done properly and torqued correctly but if anyone has ever had to work on the upper on one of these, it's damn near impossible to even see or reach 2 of the bolts on the back of the upper. I have no idea how ford expected anyone to ever properly torque those bolts?

 

Its common for the heater core hose to leak down on #4 so look for antifreeze around the coil and plug..

 

Right, check the blow hole, as well.

 

The blow hole?

 

#4 plug chamber.

 

yeah took me 2 hours to pull number 4 the frist time because of all the crack froze that plug in there.

yes at 45 mph in 4th gear Converter lock up the truck shakes Viloently with a miss. belive me i know misses and right at that converter lock it was crazy. i vote plugs and coils and it'll run like a champ!

 

I'm hoping it's just plugs and coils. I didn't bother pulling anything apart tonight. Today I ordered a new scanner that can read and record live data. I want to make sure the fuel trims are ok and that the lean code is gone before I go messing with anything else. If I have to yank the intake again cause I screwed something up bolting in the upper, I would have a little more room to get at #4, 7, & 8. I do think I will take the time to do a compression test on it before putting the new plugs in. I know it's a little late to be doing these things considering I had it sitting on a stand for 8 + months but circumstances changed and I had little time to install it due to a need for a vehicle. I wrecked my mountaineer and didn't have the right insurance coverage so I was left without a vehicle. Two of us working and 3 boys and one in preschool with both of us working just wasn't working out.

On the drive home, the multiple cylinder missfire code is gone but I do have a #4 miss. and a new code for EGR flow. P0401 I think? That may be the DPFE sensor but that sensor was working when the engine was removed. I'm now wondering if the egr adapter to upper intake is leaking? Could have been another source of a lean code. Oh how I hate tracking down problems like this without the proper diagnostic equipment.

 

Sounds to me you just got some issues to work out not a big deal. P0401 I'd check the hose's to the DPFE they might be loose or damaged in the engine R&R. do you have the old dpfe or did you throw all that stuff away? Doubtful its anything other then a loose hose but you never know.

 

not a bad plan to comp. test them while tehre out. im pretty sure we need 120-160PSI per i did it along time ago so my numbers are most likey off.

plugs arent to bad to do.

As for the EGR take it off and get a tune for it not to be on. i did no more CEL and no more Exhuast gas makin a mess in the intake

 

Take the coils from the old engine and install them on the replacement engine. Take the old DPFE and do the same. Before you begin disconnect the Negative terminal of the battery. When you are done reconnect it. This will have reset all the codes and you will start with a clean slate with known good parts. Don't forget your new plugs.

.

 

injectors that sit tend to be plugged up last two engines I installed used
had to change out the injectors
Mitch

 

didnt even think about that mitch. good call.

That could also be your lean code if the injectors are pluged you wont get enogh fuel to cool down the combustion.