All I have is what's on the service DVD, which isn't the greatest. I haven't had to pull my heads yet, - never set up a modular..-yet, so.. I can't believe you didn't search this out first, -very important to get this right the first time.

Great info posted here, that should set you straight.

I thought your buddy was swapping an engine ? Why were the cams out or heads removed ?

 

No just installing factory PI heads in place of the factory Pre PI. This is a actual increase of around 30 hp. It was mentioned in another thread that some people are claiming 70-100 hp with this alone. I am only using this as an example of claims vs real life improvements with any component upgrades. I agree, someone with your knowledge and experience can make the right improvments and get some impressive power increases. Its all a matter of how much you want to invest both in time and money. Take care.

 

HI!... Oh o.k. I misread what you wrote. I didn't realize you were comparing NON P.I to P.I. Not used to seeing NON P.I heads referred to as PRE P.I. LOL!

 

yeah this is for my buddy. only one head had a cam on it. so we had to swap stuff around. we spun it by hand 1 valve was bent already we spun the cam alone. then we spun the crank and both cams. another valve bent and another one broke compltety off. so we got all that sorted. then we set the heads and crank. fired fine idled stayed runnin then after we boltd the rest of the motor up it ran like crap....turns out a bolt droped into cyl1. so we put another head on and timed it and we turned it by hand all good. the starter turned it cranked about 4-6 times then bam locked up couldnt even turn by hand....it would go backwards but it hit a valve foward im pretty sure theres a bent valve in the driver head now......ugh this is a PITA i miss the old scool push rod motors you time with a light and moving the cap.....

thanks for all the help guys

 

HI!... No offense but I think you guys should leave this job to someone who knows what their doing. Sounds like a lot of trial and error has been going on and sounds like it's getting expensive.

 

no not expensive we got 2 PI 5.4's so we got lots of parts to break before we need to go buy new ones.

we had it right the frist time....just cant figure out were the bolt came from....

 

The bolt got into the cyl bore from the cyl head intake valve port. Whenever you have the intake manifold removed put a strip of duct tape over the head intake valve ports. I can't tell you how many times I have found bolts, nuts, etc. laying in an intake valve port. I ALWAYS visually check each port before reinstalling the intake manifold. Everything has a way of dropping right into those big round holes. Even found sparkplugs in some that fell in during repair work at the engine assembly plants. Got the engines back from a dealership for valvetrain noise. The plugs were being bounced around when the valve moved up and down. If the part is small enough to fit between the valve and valve seat it will either hold the valve open or drop all the way through into the bore. Take care and better luck this time around.

 

HI!... I luv going treasure hunting when pulling off a 4.6/5.4 intake manifold. Always find so many extensions, sockets, coil pack bolts etc down in the block valley.

 

yeah me being the smart guy i am. i check each port with a magnet before we tryd to fire again.

 

Same here, found a Snap-on 1/4" ratchet once, -there's always a few 7mm sockets down there lol.

 

Ya, the valley is a another story. We would get pulled engines (dealer returns) from all over North America for teardown to determine root cause of failure or noise. Found many mouse nests built under the intake, a couple of bird nests. Once had an engine from Texas with a large dead lizard curled up under the intake. The heat from the engine must have been too much and he was actually dried up hard as a rock. Engine from Arizona had a huge spider (diameter of a coffee cup) dried up. One guy we had was real nervous about opening the shipping boxs after that. Of course someone took advantage of that fear by laying a rubber snake on the next engine to be inspected by that guy. I bet he's still running. One valley was packed solid with acorns, squirrel must of wanted roasted nuts...and your right I could restock my tool box with all the sockets extensions etc.that were found in the valley as well. One note on the tools bouncing around under the intake is that there is the potential for the noise they make to affect the knock sensor giving it a false signal or rather making it give the PCM a false signal. One of the craziest things I ever saw was we recieved an engine that seized up. During the teardown it was obvious that the engine failed because the passenger side cam seized from lack of oil breaking the timing chain. I removed the cam caps and where the small restictor hole is at the cyl head oil reservior. There was a large carpenter ant stuck halfway thru the restictor, head on one side and *** on the other. This ant blocked off the oil supply to the cam and caused cam/engine failure. We figured the ant must have crawled into the block or cyl head oil passage before the engine was assembled. Tiny ant cost Ford over $5000.00.

 

Damn, you found all sorts of goodies, -I like the rubber snake one lol.

I swear my truck ran a hell of lot better after going thru it the first time, - beginning to wonder if removing all those sockets bouncing around the knock sensor had anything to do with that?

 

a few more weks and a few diff ways of trying it no luck. we did find out the cams were romeo cams on windsor heads. so we swaped cams and set timing still no luck.

we've fellowed haynes books. the 2 sites you posted on here. Ford tech. articals. were runnin out of ideas....

i think im gonna go barrow a ford tech for an hour or so.

Jbrew come on by buddy we got 10 gallons of homemade beer and plenty of food

 

I had to replace the head gaskets on my 5.4 at the beginning of this month. I followed Dynotech's method and the info posted on a thread I started a while back and got it right on the first try. Just go through these and read up and you should be able to get it if I was able to do it.

Dynotech How-to:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...r-engines.html

Head gasket replacement thread:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-any-good.html

Everything you should need to know is in there, and I was able to do this without any special tools at all.

Good luck,

- Erik

 

Lay the chains out like this.



mark the 1 link on the left and the 2 links on the right

The 1 link will fall on the crankshaft sprocket punch. The punch on each camshaft gear is directly under 1 single tooth, that tooth needs to fall in between the TWO links.



Ya and put the key way at 12 oclock safe mode, where all pistons are clear of open valves, incase while holding the cams it may slip and spin, who knows what could happen! Compress the tensioners how it says in the "book" put em in, bolt em on and your done, Easy as that