We just finished installing a rebuilt long block in a 97, 4.6 windsor.
Everything is hooked up, and it turns over.

The fuel pump works: I have fuel to the injectors, but not to the cylinders. I don't have a pressure gauge, so I didn't check that, as I know someone will probably mention it.
I figure it is electrically related, or somehow all 8 injectors decided to quit working over the past 3 months since we've been doing this.
I'm gonna get one of those lights that plug into the injector wires to see if the problem is the injectors or whatever electrical things tell it to spray.

Questions:
1) If it is electrical, pcm, or sensor related, how can i possibly track it down?
2) Is there some way for a backyard mechanic to bench test fuel injectors?
3) Any other fuel advice related to first time start-up is welcome. This is a first with EFI.

Also, I did search, but if you can link me to something good, go for it.

THANKS!!!

 

did you replace the cam position sensors? did you drop the cam position sensors? are you sure its fuel and not spark or compression? did you set the timing for the cams right?

 

I did not replace the sensors. I don't recall dropping them, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen. Would the cam sensor or the crank sensor be the culprit? The engine builder put all the timing together. I am sure it's fuel because it starts with a little fuel down the throttle body.
Am I right that one of the sensors must work because it would control the timing for the spark, and it starts in this manner?

 

Have you checked all of your ground wires?
Just a thought.

 

OK. I replaced both the crank and cam sensors, and the noid light does nothing, even after I replaced them. Tumba - I don't know what I'm looking for as for ground wires. The wires go to and from the PCM. I don't know where to start? as far as checking the ground connectivity/ohms.
I'm gonna give the wiring another go over anyways. again.
The noid light tells me it's something electrical not telling it to spray fuel, but other than that I'm lost.
Also, i forgot to mention that I have a scanner, and there are no codes, and the MAF and IAC read reasonable values (really low, almost 0 MAF, since it only turns over, and seemingly reasonable ambient temp IAC), so I suspect that neither of them is the culprit.

 

She won't fire with a low battery, that's where you start.

Nothing on the noid light? Reset the inertia switch- passenger side kick-panel. Works like a breaker to the injectors.

Don't crank more than 5 continuous seconds, it shuts the injectors down to protect the cats.

You want to re-boot.

 

The battery is on an automatic maintainer. The inertia switch, that's the red button you push down right, related to the fuel pump also? or is that different? if it's the same one, I made sure it was plugged in and pushed it about a dozen times by now. if it's different, please tell.
finally, what do you mean by "reboot"? disconnect battery for a while to reset the PCM?
Thanks

 

Doesn't matter/check volts.
Not sure what color yours is. Don't you at-least have a Haynes or Chiltons manual ? What about the fuse lay-out ? That's in the little book that's in the glove box. If you don't have one/ try Motorcraft.com. - The fuse lay-outs differ from model year to model year. Not sure why you keep reseting or what ? But your "Inertia" switch is behind the passenger side kick panel.
Yes 20 minutes/ or pull the PCM fuses.

 

The battery has 13 volts. I reset the inertia switch and unhooked the battery for 30 minutes. still nothing. no noid light. And I've checked all of the fuses and relays that seem related.

 

Idunno, I would go over my work at this point, - if it were me. Follow the harness around , double check everything. There's no PATs right? She should fire up. ?

Wait a minute. Try swapping the MEGA fuse's around once. Pull PCM related fuses, even the 5 mini under the dash. - Then re-boot.

 

Make sure the HDR sensor connection is tight and one or both pins are not bent inside the sensor. It's the black sensor right under the A/C compressor that goes into the front cover. It picks up a sig from the HDR wheel mounted on the crank behind the front cover. No disrespect but I hope the HDR wheel was not reinstalled backwards...it happens. Good luck

 

i would trace your wiring harness and see if it got pinched somewhere.. are you getting any power at the injectors

 

JBrew - I'll try all of that first thing tomorrow. No PATs.

Dynotech - I'll make sure the pins are not bent, but i replaced that sensor already, I called it a crank sensor but now i know the proper terminology. And I also hope [no sarcasm or disrespect] the wheel is in right - since a engine remanufacturing company was paid to do it [I keep wishing I had built it myself just so I would know these things...].

fullyford - IIRC - one prong of an injector wire has ground with the ignition off, but no hot. It does something weird with ignition on, like the wire that was previously grounded is hot and the other is grounded, but doesn't trip the noid light? makes no sense to me. Again, this may or may not be exactly how it was; I mostly remember it made no sense.

Two of us have given it the full run down several times, and we couldn't find anything wrong in the wiring.

I've also checked operation of the TPS, and for shorts through every injector. no problems there.

FINALLY - what are the chances this is a problem with the PCM?

Thanks for everyones help; sorry for the awefully long posts.

 

did you have the battery disconnected when you pulled the engine?

 

just to make sure i understand with key on you have power on one side of the injector and no power on the other side? if so take your test light and hook it up to the battery positive term and the other end to the side that had no power. if flickers while cranking you are getting the signal from pcm to pulse injectors. and if they do flicker and since you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, take something small and push on valve in test port to make sure you are getting fuel to rail.