Oil Question

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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 09:26 AM
  #16  
Labnerd's Avatar
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I use a blend with preferences towards Trop Artic, Havoline, and Pennzoil yellow bottle, in that order. All yield significantly lower wear metals in trended analysis.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 12:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Silver FX4
I used mobil 1 on my truck it has only 40,000km and it leaked like mad..
That is not a fault of the oil. It is just a result of cleaning away junk that was blocking the leaks.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Silver FX4
I used mobil 1 on my truck it has only 40,000km and it leaked like mad..
I'm sure you had a problem without the Mobil 1. Where is the leak?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 11:07 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Labnerd
Yer good to go. The 10w only comes into play on cold start up and considering it's summer, there really aren't any cold start ups unless you live REAL far north. But otherwise, it's a decent choice. I don't have all of the particulars on the 10w-30 but the 5w-30 comes in at 100C @ 9.8 in viscosity which means it's borderline on being an Energy Conserving oil. You might look on the bottles to see if it has the EC labeling. If not, you might expect a little fall in fuel mileage but frankly, one or two runs thru the gears will effect fuel mileage more than the small differences in the oils of EC or not. We have seen where engine life can extended by moving up to the 5w-30 oils once the engine sees about 90,000 miles. Again, the viscosity differences are small when comparing most 5w-20 oils which are on the thick end of the scale versus the 5w-30 oil that are on the thin end of the scale. I've switched my 04 SCrew over to the 5w-30 EC oils and there is zero difference in the fuel mileage so far at 4000 miles on this particular change. I'll be sampling at 5000 miles but expect to run it like always to 7500 miles before changing. My wear metals are almost always single digit in analysis. But come winter, make sure to use a 5w oil. The Triton engines need oil fast at the cams and that's why the spec calls for a 5w oil for cold start up.
Good post. I used 10W30 for 275,000 miles. Then my odometer broke.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 11:08 PM
  #20  
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From: Vienna, Georgia
Originally Posted by Norm
That is not a fault of the oil. It is just a result of cleaning away junk that was blocking the leaks.
Stupid junk oil. Go buy some of the old stuff, so it will seal the leaks again!
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 11:43 PM
  #21  
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ive been runnin 5w30 castrol syntec in my 02 5.4 since i got it(60k ago)and never had a problem, doesnt use any oil, and it comes out lookin farily good at 4-5k miles with motorcraft filter.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 12:14 AM
  #22  
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I have had ford change my oil every 4000km since new and never had a leak till Mobil 1 was put in. It now seems to be coming from around the pan. As far as I am concerned it is junk oil. I have switched back to Ford oil.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 02:32 AM
  #23  
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Ok so the question now is will switching back from max life hurt anything and what do u guys recommend for oil to be put in? Also already got a motorcraft filter, herd the K&N ones were junk? Is motorcraft the way to go?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 06:28 PM
  #24  
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I switched many Fords from dino to Mobil 1 and had no problems. in the last 12 years.

However, back in 95 or so, I switched my 1986 Monte Carlo SS to Mobil 1 at 107k miles. It started burning oil immediately and was burning a qt every 200 miles in short order. I had just replaced the oil pan gasket and the valve seals and saw that the engine was very clean inside. No sludge anywhere in that engine. I've been blaming it on crappy Chevy engines, but it did happen when I added Mobil 1.......................!
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 12:12 AM
  #25  
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How do you know if you have sludge build up in your oil?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #26  
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From: Seabrook,NH
Originally Posted by ONTHEEDGE
Ok so the question now is will switching back from max life hurt anything and what do u guys recommend for oil to be put in? Also already got a motorcraft filter, herd the K&N ones were junk? Is motorcraft the way to go?
Yes, Motorcraft is the way to go. K&N and Mobil 1 oil filters are pretty good but usually overpriced. NAPA Gold (Wix) is good, Silver line not so good. Fram is junk. Donaldson is good.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 01:01 PM
  #27  
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Aight so the ole trucks got 77,000 on her and I got the local Valvoline put max life in her and all was well and dandy. Well time for another change and im going to do this one myself so I bough 6 quarts of max life again, but what the shop put in was 5w20, I bough 10w30 still max life however. Is this gonna throw anything off or am i good to go? Thanks
10w30 wont hurt a thing, on your next oil change you can switch back to 5w20,
 
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:14 PM
  #28  
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One reason 5W20 is recommended is that the truck is very very slightly better on fuel with the thinner oil and the manufacturers are doing all the little things they can to increase their cafe.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 12:41 PM
  #29  
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K&N is an excellent quality filter.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 12:26 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TXhustla
How do you know if you have sludge build up in your oil?
If you change your oil regularly and you use an approved oil, you don't. And if you do, its normal. So don't ever worry about it. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn't hurt the engine to have crud in it. They are made to run dino oil, and dino oil doesn't hurt them.

When the owner's manual says to put regular oil in it, and you put space shuttle oil in, you haven't done anything except burn a hole in your wallet.

That is... Unless using space shuttle oil makes your erections last longer and your wife more submissive; then it may be money well spent.
 

Last edited by chester8420; Aug 11, 2009 at 12:31 AM.
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