Brew, i did not ignore you, but the mechanic who installed the new O2 sensor did not wanna try another one, so it looks like i'm on my own. I have replaced the fuel tank, pump and rails. The rails were very rusty like the tank. I also had replaced the Injectors on your advice months ago with the type 3's. i guess i will try the sensor swap. If i get the mechanic to try it and that's not the probem, he will hit me for another $150. It is frutrsating because i managed at one point to keep the CEL off for about 2 tanks of gas. The engine is strong except for the skip between 1200 and 1700 rpm's. Wondering if the injectors could be plugged a little internally. I pretty much am at a lost. But i don't wanna give up, i am on a mission. Please tell me if the bad O2 sensor can make it skip or if the lean bank is a function of the skip. To me it's like the chicken or the egg. By the way, the type 3's i installed look nothing like the originals.

 

You have a bad O2 sensor. It's gone- Totally wasted , not working at all. You definitely NEED this to work. That has to be fixed. I can't tell you it's going to fix the problem,-all I can tell you is that it's a pretty major one. I can also say your A/F's are screwed right now.

You can't let this one go, it will screw other things up, if it hasn't already.

You need a passenger side O2 sensor -pronto

I'm not sure how we got on the injector topic, but make it your mission to replace that O2 sensor/ then, make sure your battery is fully disconnected for at-least a half hour before you reboot. Fuel trims should be able to straight out at this point, -very fast. You should notice a big difference right away.

 

I reread your original post - I'm still concerned about your fuel lines from the tank to the rails. If there is rust in them, it's just gonna keep flaking and causing issues.

 

jbrew covered the sensors. If there is rust in the lines it will clog the injectors. Change the fuel rails. Clean or replace the injectors. http://car-part.com/ for the fuel rail.

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, nah we covered all that, he posted EVERYTHINGS been changed. The fuel rail was $200. He changed the tank, fuel pump and injectors. If the screens are clogged again, -I posted the cleaning procedure one page back - Then he says their new. I didn't see the fuel filter anywhere, I hope that was done lol.

Idunno, his posts are getting confusing.

 

If the fuel rails were replaced last then the new injectors are also clogged. What about the fuel pump and sock filter in the tank?

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Okay, just to clear this up for you helpful people. '97 F150, 5.4, 120k miles. The truck ran great but sat up for approx. 2 years waiting on my son to get his license. When it came time to put on road the following problems occured: #7 misfire, #2 misfire, 1133 and 0133. On the advice from you guys the following repairs were done: Cleaned MAF, EGR, new global cops, new correct plugs, new stage 3 injectors and new PCV tube. All codes remained. Compression test on #7, no compression. Repaired rocker on # 7 that had jumped off, both misfires gone. Computer picked up #2 because it fired after #7. 1133 and 0133 still on. Mechainic changed bank 1 upstream 02 sensor, ran for a while then same codes. Checked fuel pressure, falling off on acceleration. Found rusty tank, changed tank, fuel pump and fuel filter (second time). Fuel pressure great. Codes still there. Cleaned inlet of injectors codes went away for a couple hundred miles. Changed the fuel rail out and cleaned injector inlets again, codes still here and skipping from 1100 to 1700 rpms. This is where I stand. The mechainic suggested the same thing as JBREW, swap 02 sensors, he will do it for me at no charge. If we try this and it doesn't work, I may put original injectors back in. The truck runs fine sometimes and sometimes not. Even with this nagging problem it still gets 15 MPG. This is why i still have hope for the engine and don't wanna give up. Thanks guys.

 

You have changed the tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel rails but you HAVE NOT DONE ANYTHING with the rest of the fuel lines..........................................??? Am I talking to a brick wall?

 

Mechanic swapped the O2 sensors around a week or so ago. So far, two tanks of gas, no CEL and the truck running good. Still feels like it may have a lil skip around 1100 rpm's. I don't wanna speak to soon but will keep you guys posted. Thanks again. Keeping fingers crossed.

 

Yea , I had an O2 code from just a dirty connector, it really didn't look that dirty, but I must of had enough dielectric grease on the pins to cause a problem. Cleaned the connector w/contact cleaner and haven't had a problem since, - that was about a year ago. Anyway, yea-the wires are sensitive on that sensor, Come to find out,-so are the pins. Since your not getting codes on the opposite side now, maybe this was the problem. -It happens.

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I probably forgot a few things mentioned in this thread so far, but I would give the stock injectors a shot, since it won't cost anything. Once you rule out the injectors and have cleaned and maintenced everything,- like the MAF,fuel filter, throttle body, pvc valve -etc, -I would go thru the ignition again. Also, make sure you have all Motorcraft replacement parts installed on the engine. An engine missing is usually an ignition problem, -yours has one at a certain load not to far off from idle.

Does it misfire in Gear and in Park?

You know, there was a problem for a time with some of these model year 150's. The ignition harness would be to close or touching to the AC acummulator. The magnetic field disrupted the ignition system and at times has cause some pretty bad drivability issues. One user here that I know of, had to pull the harness away from the accumulator to get the idle to smooth out lol.

Although this problem isn't that common,- I've read about it enough, here AND there, that I have said harness tied back and away from the AC Accuumulator just for peace of mind.

What is you exact warm idle?

 

idle around 700 rpms. the gas mileage seems to be way down though. i'm seriously thinking bout reinstalling the original injectors. skips around 1100, other than that it runs good. is there a test to run for clogged cats?

 

Have to know exact warm idle. Can't help with a rough guess or "it's about". You'll have to look at it, sorry.

 

A muffler shop has equipment to test for clogged cats.