testing starter 91 f150 lariat
#1
testing starter 91 f150 lariat
i'm not a mechanic.
i'm looking at the starter behind the passenger tire on the frame right?
there's one wire going to the top of the larger cylinder from the battery. it's one of the gray and black starters. but where i've seen them with 2 poles on the smaller attached cylinder there's nothing but a round cover? where are the poles?
can i just jump the pos. battery to the wire on top of the large cylinder to test it?
i'm looking at the starter behind the passenger tire on the frame right?
there's one wire going to the top of the larger cylinder from the battery. it's one of the gray and black starters. but where i've seen them with 2 poles on the smaller attached cylinder there's nothing but a round cover? where are the poles?
can i just jump the pos. battery to the wire on top of the large cylinder to test it?
#4
and heres a pic of my 93's starter
wires and post are up top on the starter mounted solenoid
#5
#6
ok then you have the older style starter. if i remember correctly that one didnt have a solenoid on the starter. the solenoid on the fender was the only one. jump across the terminals on the solenoid and see if it cranks. if not then take the starter off and have it tested. or use jumper cables/jump box and test it your self.
#7
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#11
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
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That's the older swinging-poleshoe style of starter, which has no solenoid. It uses the relay near the battery to send power directly to its only terminal on that heavy wire. What did your meter show while it was cranking?
I suspect either:
1) the ignition switch is intermittent.
2) the NSS/MLPS is intermittent (VERY likely if you have the E4OD).
3) the starter relay is intermittent.
4) the starter is bad.
I suspect either:
1) the ignition switch is intermittent.
2) the NSS/MLPS is intermittent (VERY likely if you have the E4OD).
3) the starter relay is intermittent.
4) the starter is bad.
#12
i didn't get a reading when it cranked b/c i was so surprised by it.
i just now went out to crank it and it wouldn't. i put it in neutral and it did...left it running a couple minutes. i turned it off and cranked it again in neutral then i put it in park and it cranked up. i turned on the a/c to see if it was still working. i turned it off and cranked it a few times to listen to it. finally the battery trickled off and it won't start now.
i just now went out to crank it and it wouldn't. i put it in neutral and it did...left it running a couple minutes. i turned it off and cranked it again in neutral then i put it in park and it cranked up. i turned on the a/c to see if it was still working. i turned it off and cranked it a few times to listen to it. finally the battery trickled off and it won't start now.
#13
#14
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No, don't blindly buy parts. First, charge the battery. Then inspect the MLPS according to the TSB in this caption:
Then with a good battery, rig a test light to the LB/R wire on the starter relay & see if it lights when the starter DOESN'T work. If not, the fault is between there & the ig.sw. If it does, move the light to the single heavy wire on the relay going to the starter. If it doesn't light when the starter DOESN'T work, replace the relay.
Then with a good battery, rig a test light to the LB/R wire on the starter relay & see if it lights when the starter DOESN'T work. If not, the fault is between there & the ig.sw. If it does, move the light to the single heavy wire on the relay going to the starter. If it doesn't light when the starter DOESN'T work, replace the relay.