I have a 2008 F-150 with 3500 miles on it. I changed the oil today using Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w-30 which is what I use on my wife's car. I didn't realize until I had it changed that I should have used SAE 5w-20. I live in southern TN and I pull a trailer often. My question is this, will it hurt to leave this oil in the truck until my next change or bite the bullet and re-change the oil according to the manufacture specs? Thanks for any suggestions you offer.

Detel

 

you should be alright for this oil change. my dad was running 15w50 syn. oil in his 06 f350 5.4 3v in the summer. the engine has 20000 miles on it using that oil without a problem up to date. and he use to run 10w30 in the winter (25000 miles of using this oil) now he's using 5w30. so you should be alright for now.

 

Ford recommends 5W-20 in these engines because of the VCT (Variable Cam Timing). While I wouldn't recommend 10W-30, I don't think it will be detrimental to your engine until your next oil change.

 

The 10W-30 oil is just fine for your application. Regarding the VCT timing concern. When the 3v first came out and we performed DV and PV testing on it one of the first questions we asked engineering was, how would oil viscosity affect the VCT timing operation. They said viscosity had no adverse effects and would not cause timing issues on the 3v. Oil viscosity within reason is not an issue with the modular. Take care.

 

If you have engine failure Ford could refuse to warranty it. Other then that you shouldnt have a problem.

 

How would they know? Most dealerships want to do warranty work, unless they see oblivious reasons to deny a claim, I seriously doubt the dealership will send a sample of the oil out to a lab to see what weight it is, unless your dealership has a CSI... j/k

 

I disagree........

TSB 06-19-8

TICKING AND / OR KNOCKING NOISE / STARTUP RATTLE FROM ENGINE - 4.6L / 5.4L 3V

Publication Date: September 13, 2006

FORD:
2005 Mustang
2004-2005 F-150
2005 Expedition, F-250, F-350
LINCOLN:
2005 Navigator


This article supersedes TSB 06-4-7 to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE:
Some vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3-valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibit a ticking and / or knocking noise after reaching normal operating temperature, or a rattle upon starting. The noise may be described as ticks, taps, knocks, or thumps. In some cases the noise may be a normal characteristic of these engines. In other cases the noise may require further investigation. Sorting out and defining the noise as reported by the customer is important to successfully diagnose and / or repair the condition.

ACTION:
Before starting diagnosis, it is critical to determine the specific engine noise the customer is concerned with. The customer should be interviewed to get their detailed perception and description of the noise, and to determine if the noise occurs at idle or above idle speed, and if the engine is cold, hot, or both. Attempt to duplicate the noise, and determine the source of the symptom. Refer to the following Service Procedure to help determine the source of the noise and if a repair is needed.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: READ THIS SECTION IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING.



NOTE: THE 4.6L 3V AND 5.4L 3V ENGINES ARE INSTALLED IN SEVERAL VEHICLE PLATFORMS, WHICH MAY INFLUENCE THE INTENSITY OF NOISE DUE TO VEHICLE DIFFERENCES IN SOUND TRANSMISSION PATHS, HOOD AND BODY INSULATION PACKAGES, AND ROOT CAUSE OF THE COMPONENT(S) CAUSING THE NOISE.



PRE-CHECKS

Make sure you have a detailed description of the noise the customer is concerned with, including whether the noise is occurring at idle or above idle speed (does it disappear above 1200 RPM), and if the engine is cold, hot, or both when the noise is occurring. These engines generate a lot of "normal" noises, so it is critical to confirm the noise the customer is concerned with. Determine what environment the customer is in when the noise is most noticeable to them (inside passenger compartment, next to building with / without the driver and / or passenger window open, or beside the wheel well). Validate by using your own perception.

Compare the noise generated with a new vehicle, if available, with an ENGINE build date of 3/30/2005 or later on Mustang and 4/18/2005 or later on F-150 to F-350, Expedition and Navigator vehicles.

Diagnose noise when engine is at normal operating temperature (Oil at 160° F (71° C) or above). Verify oil temperature by using a diagnostic scan tool and monitoring the engine oil temperature (EOT) PID. Startup rattle may only occur with cold oil.

Check the type of oil filter installed on the vehicle. A dirty or clogged filter may cause a pressure drop. Look for aftermarket brands not recognized in the market or a production filter that has gone beyond the standard Ford recommended change interval.

Check for signs of oil brand used and viscosity (interview customer if needed). Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil or equivalent is recommended.

 

All they have to do is analise the oil. Not that big of a deal. I've read of guys being declined for the wrong oil and wrong filter before. I wouldn't worry about it to much but if something did go wrong I'd change the oil before I took it in.

 

If I were you'd I'd change to the correct oil immediately. You can run into some cold mornings in your area this time of year, and the difference between a 5W and 10W oil when cold is fairly pronounced. For the small amount of money involved in changing the oil out, I wouldn't hesitate to do it pronto!

 

After reading all of the replies I decided to re-change the oil with 5w-20 fully synthetic Mobile 1. Thanks for all of your input.

detel

 

Just an FYI. A manufacture can not deny warranty on a vehicle just because of the brand of filter used. In order for them to deny the warrany in this situation the manufacture would have to provide replacement filters for FREE.

 

However, they can deny if the filter does not meet spec or if the filter fails!

 

The differences between 5w-20 and 10w-30 syn are simple. They both have a viscocity of around 10 at running temp (212 F). The main difference is the viscocity when the engine is cooled down and not running. 5w has a viscocity of around 70 at 75 F and 10w has a viscocity of around 100 at 75 F. 0w-30 or 20 is the way to go. It has a viscocity of around 40 when cool. Considering most of your engine wear (90%) is at startup 0w-20 or 30 is the best choice no matter what climate you are in.

You don't need to change your oil now. The oil you have now is fine just not the best. Change to 0w for your next oil change in 7500 miles.

 

It shouldn't be a problem, but for your own peace of mind, then go ahead.

 

Dump that 10w-30 ASAP!....5W20!!!!!!!!!!