[QUOTE=tmcolegr;3527686]I disagree........

TSB 06-19-8

TICKING AND / OR KNOCKING NOISE / STARTUP RATTLE FROM ENGINE - 4.6L / 5.4L 3V

Publication Date: September 13, 2006

FORD:
2005 Mustang
2004-2005 F-150
2005 Expedition, F-250, F-350
LINCOLN:
2005 Navigator


This article supersedes TSB 06-4-7 to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE:
Some vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3-valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibit a ticking and / or knocking noise after reaching normal operating temperature, or a rattle upon starting. The noise may be described as ticks, taps, knocks, or thumps. In some cases the noise may be a normal characteristic of these engines. In other cases the noise may require further investigation. Sorting out and defining the noise as reported by the customer is important to successfully diagnose and / or repair the condition.

ACTION:
Before starting diagnosis, it is critical to determine the specific engine noise the customer is concerned with. The customer should be interviewed to get their detailed perception and description of the noise, and to determine if the noise occurs at idle or above idle speed, and if the engine is cold, hot, or both. Attempt to duplicate the noise, and determine the source of the symptom. Refer to the following Service Procedure to help determine the source of the noise and if a repair is needed.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: READ THIS SECTION IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING.



NOTE: THE 4.6L 3V AND 5.4L 3V ENGINES ARE INSTALLED IN SEVERAL VEHICLE PLATFORMS, WHICH MAY INFLUENCE THE INTENSITY OF NOISE DUE TO VEHICLE DIFFERENCES IN SOUND TRANSMISSION PATHS, HOOD AND BODY INSULATION PACKAGES, AND ROOT CAUSE OF THE COMPONENT(S) CAUSING THE NOISE.



PRE-CHECKS

Make sure you have a detailed description of the noise the customer is concerned with, including whether the noise is occurring at idle or above idle speed (does it disappear above 1200 RPM), and if the engine is cold, hot, or both when the noise is occurring. These engines generate a lot of "normal" noises, so it is critical to confirm the noise the customer is concerned with. Determine what environment the customer is in when the noise is most noticeable to them (inside passenger compartment, next to building with / without the driver and / or passenger window open, or beside the wheel well). Validate by using your own perception.

Compare the noise generated with a new vehicle, if available, with an ENGINE build date of 3/30/2005 or later on Mustang and 4/18/2005 or later on F-150 to F-350, Expedition and Navigator vehicles.

Diagnose noise when engine is at normal operating temperature (Oil at 160° F (71° C) or above). Verify oil temperature by using a diagnostic scan tool and monitoring the engine oil temperature (EOT) PID. Startup rattle may only occur with cold oil.

Check the type of oil filter installed on the vehicle. A dirty or clogged filter may cause a pressure drop. Look for aftermarket brands not recognized in the market or a production filter that has gone beyond the standard Ford recommended change interval.

Check for signs of oil brand used and viscosity (interview customer if needed). Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil or equivalent is recommended. [/QUOTE You first stated that he should change the oil because it would affect the VCT. Now you find a TSB that relates to a possible noise concern and use it for your argument. I am telling you that the 10w-30w will not damage this engine or the VCT. 5w-20w is recommended not carved in granite. Some of you are worrying people about misunderstands regarding oil viscosity. Whatever...OK use only 5w-20w or your engine will blowup, and destroy your entire truck... There are you guys happy now?? I spent 20 years tearing down, building up, testing, trouble shooting, thousands of these 4.6 and 5.4 modulars. Do I know everything about them? No. But there are things being spread around here that are just plain wrong and it gets me wound up when I read someones comments that do nothing but spread false ideas. This TSB is for noise concerns that MAY affect someones vehicle. When you perfrom a diagnosis you cover all aspects and eliminate all possible causes even if they have no bearing on the root cause of failure or complaint. Thus the last paragraph you high lighted in the TSB.

 

But it does happen. Engine failures under warranty are rare. Even more rare to find a failure due to manufacturer's defect. I know a lot of people will object, but a lot of failed engines are due to either abuse or neglect.

I have two friends who both experienced engine failure under warranty. One had a Toyota 4Runner & the other a Honda Civic. Both these vehicles have excellent reputations. What happened? Sludge. The cause? Neglect + bad oil & filter. Oil change records indicated oil changes at infrequent intervals, wrong weight oil, and irregular filter. How did the dealerships know? One dead giveaway was the generic, unmarked filter attached to the motor. Secondly, oil analysis was performed.

That is what happens when you wait 10 months or more before an oil change, change your oil every 3 months despite the fact that your 100+ miles round trip daily commute means that you've driven over 9,000 miles in those 3 months, go to any cheap shop with a coupon, and allow that shop to put in whatever oil is in the barrel. Some of these shops only use 4 quarts of 10W40 oil. It says right on the coupon. They don't care that your car uses 5 or 6 or 7 quarts of 5W20. The coupon says up to 4 quarts of 10W40, you have a coupon, you're only paying $19.95, and you get exactly what you're paying for. Who knows what brand of oil it is or if it even meets specs for your engine to stay in warranty. They may as well use soy sauce. Let's not even talk about the filter. Some of those things are about as effective as a beer can with toilet paper crammed into it.

 

I have to agree with Dynotech, I ran 15 40 diesel oil in my 5.4 just to get rid of that ANNOYING "tick". I'm back to 5-20w now that the cold winter months are here, and so is that damn tick!!