Thought I would start a new thread for this. This has to do with the amount of dielectric grease to used in/on the boots or how to apply it.

I don't really think the more dielectric is better. I have read different debates if it really is good to use with high voltage spark plugs. My concern is if too much is used in the boot and then you put the spring back on down through the boot, a lot will get on the end of the spring. If some gets between the spring and the tip of the spark plug it might hinder the conduction of the voltage. The main reason for dielectric grease is not just for moisture resistance but to just help the the boot not stick to the plug for future removal. I don't think there is any dielectric grease used at the factory when the engine is new but I might be wrong.

I can see that issue because you want total contact with the spring to the plug. If there is grease between them it can create the slightest gap (or barrier) which is not good for the coil upon firing over time and could cause premature failure. Dielectric grease is non conductive.

I figure to solve this in case there is anything to it, next time I will coat the spark plug sleeve area before I install the plug. This way when I put the boot on over the plug, all the grease will stay where it is really needed and the spring and tip of the plug will have nothing on them to prevent bad contact.

I know several times when I pulled the COP in the past after using grease, the grease was dried out and was all over the springs.

Who has any thoughts and more importantly does anyone really care. I been thinking about this since I have owned three 5.4L now and the main problem I have with any of them is misfires from the ignition coils.

 

when i did my plugs i put dielectric in the boots until it came out. left the springs in while i did this. that was at least a year ago, if not longer, and no problems so far.

also, why is it recommended to put dielectric on the terminals when installing a battery? did that too and have had no problems.

i think in the case of grease, id rather have too much than too little. moisture and corrosion will wreak havoc on an electrical system.

 

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease, -because it is non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a non-conductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector.

The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are in located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected.

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the non-conductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector.

The application of any sort of a non-conductive grease to the actual contacts themselves can't help them make better contact at that point. You have to hope the grease gets squeezed out of the way so the two conductors can make contact. Any grease left in there is going to reduce the contact, not improve it.

If the contacts are not perfectly clean, you'd be better off using something like WD-40 on them. WD-40 is designed to restore electrical contacts. It is a decent solvent and will get rid of a lot of corrosion and dirt in the contacts.

If the contacts are open and exposed to the air and water, it may make sense to apply a grease covering to them after the connection has been made. The grease then just acts as a sealant to keep out water and air, and may prevent corrosion from occurring.

Just clean the ends/contact points only. Inside the boot, it's an extra insulator that repels moisture. Stretch the spring if that's the type of connector your using. The spring will end up getting the grease on the ends. Dip the ends in solvent to clean. Test fit onto a spare plug. Pull it of and examine. - Clean again if need be.

Personally I only use a very thin amount and I don't use the complete spring connector assembly. Never had a problem.

As long as the ends are clean before install, then any grease that pushes down further should be on the outside of the connection - IF your connectors are right/tight.

 

I use it everywhere , It looks dirty as hell after awhile, but it does an awesome job - Prevents moisture shorts (components/sensors) and keeps the wires from drying out. Dielectric actually will solidify when heated over time, looks like a rubber silicon.. If you run on the on the boots or cap the chambers on the heads, it turns to rubber if you used enough of it.

 

When I grease my cops, I pull the boot from the coil, leaving the spring connected to the coil. I then squirt a "gob" into the top of the boot and use a 3/6" wide zip-tie to spread it around inside the entire boot. It leaves a moderate film of di-grease all around. I reconnect the boot to the coil and any access that is on the spring at the end of the boot, I clean out with the same zip-tie. I have never had a problem using this method to my COP's or any conventional spark plug change. I do like Brew's suggestion of taking a spare plug and connecting it to the COP before installing it. This assures you of a clean fit.

 

Jbrew

I googled Dielectric grease and this is the 1st page that came up.

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease. Because it is non-conductive it does not enhance the flow electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a non-conductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector.
The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are in located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected.

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the non-conductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector.

I was reading your post and thinking, when did Brew go all technical on us. Man you had me scared.

By the way, how's your overhaul coming. I havn't seen you on in a couple of days. Figured you were working in the garage.
How's the horns working now.

 

I was trying to look smart and cut down on typing time.. I new I should have opted for the third or fourth one down when I googled it.. Thanks for blowing my cover, yuh fathead..

Here was my GENUIN brew part of my Copy & Paste post -

"Just clean the ends/contact points only. Inside the boot, it's an extra insulator that repels moisture. Stretch the spring if that's the type of connector your using. The spring will end up getting the grease on the ends. Dip the ends in solvent to clean. Test fit onto a spare plug. Pull it of and examine. - Clean again if need be.

Personally I only use a very thin amount and I don't use the complete spring connector assembly. Never had a problem.

As long as the ends are clean before install, then any grease that pushes down further should be on the outside of the connection - IF your connectors are right/tight."

So I did put in a little time

________________________________________

I'm out in the shop now, -will be all night. I haven't worked on her at all - Left off at the Horns.. Well I'm right here now -



Putting the grill back on - Then - Vac Lines (4x4) , Starter (I broke the new one ), Flush the block, Heater Core - Then, I'll drop her down , finish the manifold . BUT , I have more family coming in tomorrow night, so I'll have to entertain - Man , I hate stopping this project lol..

 

lol @ the brew

 

I was trying to look smart and cut down on typing time.. I new I should have opted for the third or fourth one down when I googled it.. Thanks for blowing my cover, yuh fathead..

Thanks for the laugh 1st thing this morning. I'm sitting here at my puter and started laughing out loud and my wife asked who sent me the funny email. I responded by saying, not an email, Jbrew made me laugh. Scary thing, she knew what and who I was talking about.

I can't wait to hear about how you broke the NEW starter. Keep in mind, I had mine all bolted in when I broke the bolt on the solenoid that was closest to the edge. Advance didn't question it and gave me a new one right away. They looked at it and said, stupid design and handed me the new one.

Good luck with your work.

 

wow how do you keep it so on your trucks do u have a steam cleaner or something??

 

Looks like your headlight is the stock one. With as clean as the rest of your truck is you might want to replace them. I replaced mine from carparts.com seems like they were $30 each. The stock hardware is better so I put it on the new headlights when I installed them. They are of course chinese made cheapos. Stock replacements are much more..

 

After reading jbrew's posts on his use of dielectric grease, I get this picture in my head of an engine encased in the stuff, sort of like metal parts with a grease coating for shipping over seas. I bought stock in the company thats makes the stuff!

 

I used dielectric grease in every connector under the hood. I put it in the connector then joined them. So far so good. Having read jbrew's instructions I would not recommend anyone else do it but it did work for me. I figure the connectors rub together and push the grease away and complete the connection. Anybody ever figure out how to keep the horns from sucking in water?

 

My own mix - 1 part K & N Filter oil/ 2 parts Amoral and a taste of Deep Creep

Before -



After -

 

Jbrew...Thanks for quoting me in your sig. I had forgot about telling someone to do that, and it gave me a good laugh to see it again.