Thanks jbrew - I think I'm going to do it the way I outlined. At least I know what I'm doing this way.

- Jack

 

No Problem - Yea stick with the way your comfortable with. Why would you even... -Well, NeverMindIt - I learn fast

Good luck with that.

 

Jbrew, I just finally got around to checking all the connections from the battery in the picture you posted. All the connections were secure and clean. There was one ground connection I believe on the starter that was covered with a plastic cover next to the big red wire that I didnt touch. Should I check this and is it safe to touch while the battery is connected?

 

Jbrew could you also post a list if possible of all the ground connections on my 07 5.4L F150?

 

Wreed, I know I'm not jbrew, and I'm guessing he knows more of the specifics of this than I do. But, I can't see how your problem is a poor ground. That would just make some component work badly or not at all. It would not discharge your battery.

As far as wiring around the starter, if it were me, I'd disconnect the battery before sticking a wrench in there. You're near a big, heavy cable that can pass a lot of current and surprise the hell out of you if you accidentally short a "hot" connection to ground. It won't electrocute you, but the spark might blind you and make your pants get wet.

Speaking of hazards, I've discovered a black widow spider has made her nest up in the right hand side of the engine. I've got to get her out of there before I go sticking my hand or face up into that area!

- Jack

 

I agree, I dont think it is the cabling either but I want to check everything just to be sure.

Anything else to check please post!

Oh I wasnt using a wrench just my hand. I felt all the cables pretty good and they wernt going anywhere.

 

I just wanted you to do a good visual inspection of everything for obvious problems; being that your truck is fairly new. I'm trying to go from memory instead of reading the thread again. You replaced the Motorcraft Battery with a red top Optima and our now having the same problems with the new battery.

Do you have a good meter. The only one I trust is the Fluke (automotive) - There not to bad on price. Also an Accessory kit will cut allot of time consuming corners -

Here's the kit I suggest. -

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Ac...(FlukeProducts)

I can't find the fuse block plug-in yet, came from sears; neat as hell, but not in the online catalog. Oh yea, Craftsmen meters are indeed Fluke meters with the Craftsmen name and colors just so you know. Kits are compatible.

 

Yes, I replaced the factory Motorcraft battery with a RedTop Optima and I am having the same problem.

I pulled the battery this past weekend and had it tested at Oreilly where I bought and they said it was good and could take more.

I have been driving the truck all week no problems, when I let it sit for a week is when it will not start.

What model meter do you suggest? I love Fluke products and use them to tone network cables at work. I just have a $30 Radioshack meter. I am going to order the Fluke automotive accessory kit and the 3 volume 2007 F150 service manuals from Ebay.

 

This is cool!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-...mZ250274000291


WOW the Fluke meters are expensive!

 

It was the "fuse block" thing that threw me in your response to my "KAM" question, jbrew. I've never heard of this thing and since I don't know what it does....

I agree, Fluke is the best. But, my Tpi meter has been good to me.

- Jack

 

The auto series flukes are all good - the best IMO Like Christmas, damn luck you found those books. I've seen those going for 600-800 big ones. I don't own any - smoocher! The DVDs are from 9 - 20 bucks on ebay. Those hard covers have a great residual value tho if you take care of them. If you sell the truck or trade it in - THOSE manuals are hard to come by, so you'll most likely get allot more than there asking for them.

Craftsman/Sears store may be worth checking out in your area. Save a little that way, the cheaper ones have accessory ports as well. I think you can get Fluke bran names there as well, but Craftsmans are Fluke.

They use high quality PCB's - Where the rest - it's not uncommon to blow the tops of the capacitors

They don't use samxon caps, which are **** - Hell , never mind all that - There good!

 

List all the aftermarket items you have installed. Lights, audio, everything you can think of.

Jack, a bad ground can cause increased drain. The reason is Ohms law again. Current will take the easiest path which should be the large grounds but if there is a bad ground it will seek other paths. It can use any return line including speaker wire. (one of the reasons for buzzing speakers and amps is poor grounds). The truck is a negative ground system so every negative wire is also a ground in essence.

Flukes are the best. I have several. My personal home meter is an old 87. Rock solid.
At work I have many choices.

 

I'm looking for something for you guys - I've seen a video blocks of diags on tccoa before , but can't find that either

The biggest problem that occurs in FB's is that they can loosen up - specially under the dash. Grab them and check for that - it has caused some problems in the past. Not for me, but I've read about it.

 

Norm,
The truck is completely stock, there has not been one aftermarket electrical accessory added to it or plugged into the cig lighter. Only mods are the Autospring 2" lift and Edge which I am currently running stock tune. Actual Edge unit has been in the toolbox for the last month though. I never leave it on the dash.

 

what is the tccoa?