New guy with a common problem.

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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:46 AM
  #1  
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New guy with a common problem.

Just joined so this can be my first introduction and question.

I have been a car guy for a while owning several mustangs but not many trucks.

I recently bought a 03 supercrew fx4 with the 5.4 2v and 2 weeks after purchase it starts ticking on cold cranks...took it back because they told me i have a 12k mile 1 year warranty on everything except wear items like brakes, tires etc...

they tell me that these motors are common for piston slap and that it aint gonna hurt anything and pretty much told me in a nice way to deal with it.

It seems to be getting louder and sounds like a ragged POS for about 5-10 seconds when you first crank it then its gone.

What are my options?....cant i tell them to get me a new shortblock from ford?...or whats up with this common problem..
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:07 AM
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sounds like a phaser gear maybe
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Lunchbocks
Just joined so this can be my first introduction and question.

I have been a car guy for a while owning several mustangs but not many trucks.

I recently bought a 03 supercrew fx4 with the 5.4 2v and 2 weeks after purchase it starts ticking on cold cranks...took it back because they told me i have a 12k mile 1 year warranty on everything except wear items like brakes, tires etc...

they tell me that these motors are common for piston slap and that it aint gonna hurt anything and pretty much told me in a nice way to deal with it.

It seems to be getting louder and sounds like a ragged POS for about 5-10 seconds when you first crank it then its gone.

What are my options?....cant i tell them to get me a new shortblock from ford?...or whats up with this common problem..
Are you using Motorcraft oil filters? At least a 50/50 synthetic oil? I would run 100% Synthetic if my truck did that. It might be to late for that one , but it's worth a shot. - Sounds like it's been mistreated in the past.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Are you using Motorcraft oil filters? At least a 50/50 synthetic oil? I would run 100% Synthetic if my truck did that. It might be to late for that one , but it's worth a shot. - Sounds like it's been mistreated in the past.
I don't know if thats the case. My truck went its first 262k on Fram oil filters and the absolute cheapest 10/30 oil money (or lack there of) could buy. Its now at 295k and still going.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:28 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Are you using Motorcraft oil filters? At least a 50/50 synthetic oil? I would run 100% Synthetic if my truck did that. It might be to late for that one , but it's worth a shot. - Sounds like it's been mistreated in the past.
i have talked to others with the same problem and its apparently not from abuse
but from ****ty design from ford. i researched it and some have seen it in some models as early as 5,000miles and some not til 50,000-100,000 miles

it has the motorcraft 820s and 5w20 Ford Synth Blend
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Lunchbocks
i have talked to others with the same problem and its apparently not from abuse
but from ****ty design from ford. i researched it and some have seen it in some models as early as 5,000miles and some not til 50,000-100,000 miles

it has the motorcraft 820s and 5w20 Ford Synth Blend
If it is indeed the slap than I wouldn't worry about it. Many on here have gone over 150,000+ miles with the slap. It isn't like the old days when piston slap meant that it was a ticking time bomb and that a rebuild was in the near future.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:41 AM
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Its not the time bomb issue i am worried about, i just dont want it sounding ragged when i crank it..


i dont see why it having a warranty i cant get it fixed
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe
I don't know if thats the case. My truck went its first 262k on Fram oil filters and the absolute cheapest 10/30 oil money (or lack there of) could buy. Its now at 295k and still going.

Wow , your the first one I ever seen get that many miles using a tin can with cardboard media without dry start prevention. And you did all this using oil that isn't even recommended.

Ford doesn't know sh^t - Motorcaft sucks - Use FRAM filters if you want it to last and what ever you do - DON'T use the manufacturers (Ford) recommended oil , just ignore them - They just want to screw you over - so use anything but
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 02:36 AM
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whoa whoa hey dude. dont get too testy, i've run pennzoil and fram for many years on my ranger and 4.6. that rangers still kickin. i just got tired of the 4.6 lackin any pony, which is common. i'll admit, i had more noise with fram on below freezing starts in the ranger. the 4.6 just made all sorts of noise.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Klitch
whoa whoa hey dude. dont get too testy, i've run pennzoil and fram for many years on my ranger and 4.6. that rangers still kickin. i just got tired of the 4.6 lackin any pony, which is common. i'll admit, i had more noise with fram on below freezing starts in the ranger. the 4.6 just made all sorts of noise.
jbrew is right- I used Fram MANY years ago and noticed the oil was always dirtier quicker with Fram. Didn't know all of the other WEAK points of Fram then- I do now. I can buy Motorcraft at Wally-World cheaper than Fram and have NO dry start and rattle-try that with Fram. The fact that some report going 250,000k using Fram is not a testament to the quality of inferior Fram but the quality of Ford that it would run that long using an inferior oil filter. I recently changed the oil and filter on my DIL's 99 Lexus RX300 after it had set for a few hours and you couldn't have RUNG a drop of oil out of that filter for a $1,000. It was BONE DRY!. Is that the filter you want on your vehicle? Not me. That son is a great kid but doesn't know much about cars and therefore buys Fram.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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"Wow , your the first one I ever seen get that many miles using a tin can with cardboard media without dry start prevention. And you did all this using oil that isn't even recommended."

No it's not. I've repeatedly mentioned I've got over 1 million miles, on three vehicles, with nothing but Fram filters. Oil, air, and fuel. YOU DON'T PAY ATTENTION. And constantly regurtitate the same misinformation. Quit playing internet mechanic and get some real life experience under your belt.

And post more pictures.

 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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Listen - Go ahead and stand against what the manufacturer suggests - be my guest, it your truck. Stupid is what stupid does and nobody knows that more than you. I sure don't and neither do the engineers who designs these trucks right. Go for it pal and search it out for yourself - I've done my time.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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brew i finally converted last year to MC filters, or purolator (same thing). but you'll play hell trying to get me off pennzoil, its cheaper price and imo quality. every vehicle here, over 15 on this property, roughly 10 run and get driven randomly on pennzoil.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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Yea Klitch - As far as Oil , brand isn't a big deal, but running the correct weight that's best for your motor should be applied. It's funny how a very few select people love to wrong the manufacturer.

Anyway, there's some significant differences in filters, plugs, valves and sensors. Air filters aren't really a concern, but oil filters and plugs are - There you should stick with quality because unfortunately there's the lack of out there. Stock engines should stick with OEM brands for best results, unless your positive a particular brand makes the cut. Mobile One for instance makes a quality oil filter or like you said Purolator/Motorcraft are one in the same.
Fram might work well on some motors , but seriously lack in quality. I can't believe some of the crap they make and get away with. You see that cut open filter test ? That did it for me . Shoot Fram PCV valve for these trucks is WAY OFF - I can't believe that could even get approved. Damn thing restricts enough air to cause problems, that could get serious if you run them long enough.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Wow , your the first one I ever seen get that many miles using a tin can with cardboard media without dry start prevention. And you did all this using oil that isn't even recommended.

Ford doesn't know sh^t - Motorcaft sucks - Use FRAM filters if you want it to last and what ever you do - DON'T use the manufacturers (Ford) recommended oil , just ignore them - They just want to screw you over - so use anything but
Just some info for you....

The early build mod motors were originally recommended and "designed" to run 10/30 in them all year round, then EPA stepped in with their BS and then Ford started recommending 5/30, a few more years passed and back came the EPA with more BS and Ford then started recommending 5/20 all on the same mod motors.

Also our trucks (2 valves anyways) do not really need the anti drain back valve. The anti drain back valve becomes important on vehicles with variable timing camshafts. Jst think of it this way, right after you change your oil do you hear chattering from a dry start while waiting for your oil pressure to build back up? i am yet to hear it on any mod motor. the reason being that all your bearings and evething else will still be lubed and should be ok until your ol pressure builds back up.

The anti drain back valve is nothing more than a little rubber flap that rarely seals properly. so if you leave your vehicle sitting for a while, its all gonna drain back through the filter anyway
 
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