Radiator Electrolosys (sp?) God &$%# Electric Fans
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From: DFW
the older craftsmans, used to come with a paper that said "Fluke internals" like around 5 years ago, dont know if they still do that or not, mine didnt have it.
let me ask my friend before you buy a new one
let me ask my friend before you buy a new one
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From: Seabrook,NH
Craftsman does not really make much, if anything. It is just a label. Danaher Forge makes the tools, Emerson Electric (Skil, Bosch, Ridgid etc) made the table saws and several other power tools. Murray/Noma made the mowers and tractors etc. Fluke made the test equipment etc....
Last edited by Norm; Apr 23, 2008 at 02:01 PM.
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From: MI
All Gr8 info above - good to know!! - For a time I thought DeWalt made a few Craftsmen saws. Until I found out DeWalt id Black and Decker. I recall seeing allot of DeWalt Chop saws at Sears at one Time. I still like the older DeWalt 12" Chop saw over any other I've used. Damn things are solid.
Glad to here "Fluke" might make there meters. I'm going to get me one of those.
Thanks for all the info fellas
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From: Eastern TN
Galaxy -
The problem is not related to the e-fans, battery, UFO's, etc.
Your radiator, along with the aluminum heads / cast iron block / fluids have all created a low power battery.
The voltage is not harmful, in and of itself, as long as it doesn't have a path to cause significant current flow. Think of a AA battery - it has a difference of potential, but nothing happens unless there is a path for the current to flow...
Did you check the rubber grommets that surround the radiator support posts ? If I remember correctly, the radiator is "suspended" at all contact points by rubber mounts / grommets. Check all around the radiator to be sure nothing conductive is contacting it.
If your radiator hoses have the metal inner spring, be sure it isn't touching at both ends (radiator and block).
Just a couple more ideas for things to check...
BTW jbrew - Fluke meters are really tough to beat. I've had mine for over 20 years now... Still works flawlessly !!!
The problem is not related to the e-fans, battery, UFO's, etc.
Your radiator, along with the aluminum heads / cast iron block / fluids have all created a low power battery.
The voltage is not harmful, in and of itself, as long as it doesn't have a path to cause significant current flow. Think of a AA battery - it has a difference of potential, but nothing happens unless there is a path for the current to flow...
Did you check the rubber grommets that surround the radiator support posts ? If I remember correctly, the radiator is "suspended" at all contact points by rubber mounts / grommets. Check all around the radiator to be sure nothing conductive is contacting it.
If your radiator hoses have the metal inner spring, be sure it isn't touching at both ends (radiator and block).
Just a couple more ideas for things to check...
BTW jbrew - Fluke meters are really tough to beat. I've had mine for over 20 years now... Still works flawlessly !!!
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OK...Coolant flush accomplished. Drained everything and flushed / topped off with distilled water and 1.5 gal of my favorite anti-freeze. Was initially (imediately after the refill) showing .18 vdc, but eventually creeped up to .22. This is down from the original .29 I had, but I give!!! I have (by all accounts and every method you and I both have come up with) completely ruled out an electrical problem. So what would be next?? Heck, I don't know what can be done next...if your goal was to completely eliminate it????????????????????
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Ever heard of RMI 25??? It's a liquid addative the radiator shop gave me to pour in the system and give it a try...but the description and all the listed benefits on the back of the bottle are no different than what's on a bottle of Watter Wetter. Ever heard of this product??
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From: So. Texas
RMI 25 is made by Radiator Services Specialists out of Australia. The MSDS shows napthalenes and triethanolamines. None of these should create any issues but the only thing I see it's going to do is provide a clean radiator- nothing else.Triethanolamines are a detergent made by Dow and you probably know what napthalenes are. I'm sure by now you've noticed I don't recommend additives. It would appear that you have solved the issue already. If it ain't broke- don't fix it.
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From: Florida
Jbrew- Great explanation.
galaxy-
You are doing everything right.
There has to be some contaminate hiding somewhere in the system to give that much voltage potential with distilled water.
All I can think of is to drain & refill it just with distilled water. Then test it.
Then add the antifreeze and test it again.
Then add the water wetter and test it again.
galaxy-
You are doing everything right.
There has to be some contaminate hiding somewhere in the system to give that much voltage potential with distilled water.
All I can think of is to drain & refill it just with distilled water. Then test it.
Then add the antifreeze and test it again.
Then add the water wetter and test it again.
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Update
Well, just for an update since it's been a few weeks. Remember...I did flush the whole system again with distilled water, added anit-freeze, and did not add any Water Wetter or any other additives. Checked for voltage again yesterday and I still have .26. Oh well...I don't know what else can be done. If it pops another hole in this radiator I'll just have to deal with it.
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Did the coolant system get flushed when the rad was replaced? If not do it. It has been charged and is now useless. BTW less than .3 volts is acceptable. Your .29 is at the very limit. Mine is .22 off and with all accessories running. It spikes to .32 when the engine is started. That is above the threshold. It needs to be corrected. I am in no great rush as it is only .02 over the limit.
FWIW
I have an extra ground from the engine front cover to the battery. I have a winch which runs a ground from the battery to the winch motor. I have also rewired the AC/Heater fan motor to run the speed control before the motor in the circuit. This allows any static electricity caused by the fan blades to go directly to ground and not through the heater core. Running a ground wire to the rad will only shorten the path that any stray electrical current has to run to go to ground. Expect to see a hole where the ground connects to the rad. Clean the alternator mount bolts to insure proper ground. Clean both the ground terminals at the starter. The one at the starter mount bolt and the one at the frame. I
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
__________________
00 F-150 XLT SC Flairside 4x4 5.4 w/5 spg, Hurst Short Throw, Sterling 9.75 LSD Rear Axle, Walbro 255l/hr fuel pump, Ford Motorsport 42 lbs injectors, 90mm MAF, Warn XD9000i, Posi-Lok, PA 3" Body Lift, Rancho RSX Reflex, BFG 305/70 R16 MT, Eagle Alloys 589 16x10, Borla Cat Back, JBA Ported Headers, Troyer Fan Kit,Gasket matched Intake manifold&Heads, Ported TB & Elbow,Troyer Performance Custom Tunes, ProCharger P-1SC @ 12lbs
FWIW
I have an extra ground from the engine front cover to the battery. I have a winch which runs a ground from the battery to the winch motor. I have also rewired the AC/Heater fan motor to run the speed control before the motor in the circuit. This allows any static electricity caused by the fan blades to go directly to ground and not through the heater core. Running a ground wire to the rad will only shorten the path that any stray electrical current has to run to go to ground. Expect to see a hole where the ground connects to the rad. Clean the alternator mount bolts to insure proper ground. Clean both the ground terminals at the starter. The one at the starter mount bolt and the one at the frame. I
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
__________________
00 F-150 XLT SC Flairside 4x4 5.4 w/5 spg, Hurst Short Throw, Sterling 9.75 LSD Rear Axle, Walbro 255l/hr fuel pump, Ford Motorsport 42 lbs injectors, 90mm MAF, Warn XD9000i, Posi-Lok, PA 3" Body Lift, Rancho RSX Reflex, BFG 305/70 R16 MT, Eagle Alloys 589 16x10, Borla Cat Back, JBA Ported Headers, Troyer Fan Kit,Gasket matched Intake manifold&Heads, Ported TB & Elbow,Troyer Performance Custom Tunes, ProCharger P-1SC @ 12lbs
