Buy 5w-20 in bulk?

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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:10 AM
  #31  
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From: MI
Originally Posted by fairlaner
Be careful ... last time I stocked up on oil/filters (for my Jeep), my wife wrecked it two weeks later!
- Yea , that's gotta be bad luck ..
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 98Navi
Or you could just **** in the oil pan, urine makes about the same level of protection as Amsoil.

5w20 = 5 summer 20 winter wieght oil
5w30 = 5 summer 30 winter wieght oil

:

5 summer and 20 / 30 winter??? That right there should show you what he knows about oil!!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 07:58 PM
  #33  
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From: ft. laud., fla
Originally Posted by 98Navi
Or you could just **** in the oil pan, urine makes about the same level of protection as Amsoil.

5w20 = 5 summer 20 winter wieght oil
5w30 = 5 summer 30 winter wieght oil

You can do the rest of hte math. 5/20 costs more. I run 10w30 synthetic in mine, 110K miles no leaks no taps rattles or pings. Sams is the best place to buy in bulk, cases of mobil 1 usually run about $29-$32 here. Walmart sells the 5 quart jug for $26-$27, but there is usually some asshat who buys it all up, like me!
just at Costco, had Mobil1 10-30 6qt@$29.xx
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 10:05 PM
  #34  
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by Galaxy
5 summer and 20 / 30 winter??? That right there should show you what he knows about oil!!
Well then why don't you educate us further than the following?

Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:

At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot
The starting temp will be defined seasonally by the outdoor temp (unless you are plugged into a block heater) Colder air will lead to cooler intake charge temperatures and lower engine bay temps during winter, and vice versa in the summer. Hence why they say 5w30 with the W meaning winter

Point 4 in the following link should provide you some education
http://www.howstuffworks.com/framed....oil_facts.html

I believe, you have just been OWNED
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #35  
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by glc
Document this, please. That's just wrong. That's like saying that Citgo gas will foul your injectors because you don't like sending your money to Venezuela. Amsoil is no worse than any other 100% synthetic oil. Their multi-level marketing model and dealer evangelism may be offensive to people but that has nothing to do with the quality of the product.
As for this, we can regress back to the fact that Amsoil won't back their product up on toyota four cylinder engines. Norm likes to call them sludgemonsters. The reason they got this misnomer was that people are inherintly stupid and try to overextend motor oils life. Amsoil got tired of paying claims on that motor and put an * on it saying their bullchit 25K mile interval won't work on it. And as for the general concept of it, it was simply a stolen recipe from the US Army that was invented back in the 30's or something like that for army vehicles that weren't in places that were easily servicable. They dropped the program. Amsoil picked it up in teh early 70's (72 or 74 one I forget) and labeled it their own and with a little marketing over the years tout themselves as oil gods which they are not. Their limited liability exclusions and process for claims in iteself (which has been discussed here in extreme depth multiple times) makes it all but impossible to complete a claim unless your a lawyer or have months of free time to fight an endless battle. Why force yourself into such a dumb position when other companies, such as pennzoil, offer an unlimited warranty on your engine against oil related failures if you change your oil within 3500 miles for the lifetime of the car? No if's, and's or but's about it. I've got a customer with almost 600K miles on a Yukon and his motor is still under warranty from pennzoil, it just won't die! Find me a pushrod motor thats run amsoil for 600K miles thats still running..........
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:06 PM
  #36  
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You state one thing and then post a quote contradicting what you just said, thus proving my point for me! You stated that the first number (5) was the summer, or normal temperature viscosity and that the second number (20 or 30) was the winter. That is completely backwards as explained in the quote you included in your own message, and what I was saying in my post.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:11 PM
  #37  
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From: Atlanta, GA
Jesus you have to do all the work for some people.....you obviously didn't read point 4 on the link I provided, which is an extension on the exert I posted from it. I didn't post it all to keep from cluttering this thread, but since you are a lazy *** I will.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.
Translation, the season extremes should be the basis of the choice of the grade of oil you use. PWNED
 
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 09:06 AM
  #38  
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I'm not talking about any of the "quotes" you included in any of your post...they are correct and I don't need to read them as I already know that. I was simply giving you a hard time about your actual words in post #28, in which you have the descriptions of the two viscosity numbers backwards.
 
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