i dont think back in is going to be too hard. i can finger the hole pretty good if im on the creeper and i reach my right arm up and over from the drivers side.

 

well dropped the tranny off this mornin. the guy understands whats in front of it, behind it, and what pushes the skinny pedal often. told me no problem, he has to see me all the time especially if something happens to it.

big guy too.

he dont have a website but he does have a myspace with some pics. http://www.myspace.com/RODSCARS

lets see how this goes.

oh also, he recommended a derale 13720 $150 - derale link http://www.derale.com/electra-cool.html

 

psst, yay or nay on the derale cooler? i have a stocker up there now. i just worry about having room to place this derale one.

 

Yay. I have had one in service for a couple years and it is a big help.
I used two galvanized flat framing straps about 2" wide x 24" long to make a mount.
Bolt or screw the staps vertically to the upper and lower radiator supports in front of the condenser, and bolt the cooler to them. Plenty of space. Easy to run fluid hoses out of the radiator and back into the atf return line.

Does that price include the thermo controlled fan switch? You could use a relay with efans to trigger??

 

i will look into what it includes, it sounded like it was pretty much plumb, wire and go so i think it may include a switch. i cant use the location u did because i have my intercooler there. the best part of this is the fact i have the tow package, so part of my plumbing is done.

 

ok i picked up the derale, problem now is i thought i had more room for it than i do.
im gonna have to look into mounting it really close to the bottom of my heat exchanger lol.

the derale didnt come with anything except the fan attached to it lol. is there anythin wrong with wiring it up to be key on fan on?

 

Don't see why it wouldn't be a bad way to go. Only thing, is if the fan can handle it.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

That's the thermo switch that I am using with the cooler. If you use the switch you could just connect the fan via switch to the battery, add a fuse, and that would be it. I think it's too cold there in the Winter to have it run all of the time, and that would just wear out the fan anyway.

Also, when you plumb it, it should be the last in line before the return line to the trans.

 

i had a factory cooler, i assume its plumbed the correct way?

 

If you play in water you should use a relay that is wired to use the 87a wire. It will always be on till you flip the switch and then it will turn off. This way you can interrupt the power to turn it off in the water. All my e-fans are wired this way. I would also add a thermo switch like ONELOWF suggested.

Regrads

Jean Marc Chartier

 

yea I'd put them on a switch, once you get over 20mph you really dont need them on.

 

I just finished putting in a pair of perma-cool 14"s in my '97, and I'm using the Flex-a-lite variable speed controller for it. Everything is hooked up the way they say to, but with one small change--instead of the key-hot being hooked up, the key-hot instead goes to a switch run from the battery. I told my wife "under 40 mph only." I JUST finished putting the thing together yesterday AM, and then sent her on a 600 mile trip. She says everything worked fine.

I suggest 10ga wire for the main fan lines. The other lines, such as the key-hot and the A/C clutch sensor I ran 14ga, which is fine for it, as the controller just uses those to signal that the vehicle is running, or that the A/C is on. All the main power lines involving the fans are 10ga, and looks to be right.

I'm definitely going to be changing the mounts, though. I had to use the "through radiator" mounts to get her going, but when she comes back with it, I'm going to run metal straps down the rear of the radiator and mount them to those. I've read too many horror stories about those causing leaks, but other than that, I'm happy with the way it all turned out.

If I were to do it all over again, I'd have gotten the $26 wiring kit with the controller. I found that the switch, extra wire, connectors and wire nuts ended up coming to about that much, and I had to do all the work, whereas the wiring kit had the stuff already there, just hook it up and go. I'd have MAYBE saved a $ or two, and I'd have saved some time, as well.

Good luck.

 

I personally am too absent minded to rely on any maual switches, particularly for cooling, etc.
Another alternative would be to use a seperate relay with the low start efan as the signal to a relay, as long as you are still cooling the trans with the radiator.

I just connected the trans fan along with a 45,000 btu cooler, bypassing the radiator altogether.After driving in 100* traffic, and parking the truck, the fan was still running as it was connected directly to battery power. You see this in some vehicles. I pulled the fuse as the I am not sure yet how long it will run with the ign off and it may have to be changed?

 

Here is what you need. All in one install. http://www.derale.com/fan-mounted-oil-cool.html Add a switch to turn off for water crossings.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

aww, is there anything i could pick up from napa? dont want to wait for a "ordered" item to show up. brought home some stainless sheetmetal, about 18ga. i think it aughta support the cooler