When you say fuel tester, do you mean fuel pressure gage? That would tell you if you have a pressure problem. Also when doing a fuel pressure test keep the gage connected for 20 or 30 mins after the engine is turned off to monitor any leak down of injectors. After the truck has sat for several hours does it smoke at start up?

 

I agree with Bluegrass probably the timing. If the timing marks were not lined up at #1 TDC and checked after each stage of re-assembly it is very possible the (and very easy) to get the timing off by 1 tooth.

 

I almost had a seizure when I read that, pls calm down before you type a message!

 

you need more info like wether it misses or sputters and etc.

 

What kind of noise is the engine making? Tick, knock, bang? Any idea where the noise is coming from? Regardless if you can get up to 160 at partial throttle then it is not a mechanical issue. 120 at WOT sounds like a TPS issue. As requested knowing which engine/tranny helps.

JMC

 

Sorry guys, I should have known better. 1998 F150 4.6 The noise sounds like valve tappets, I also am thinking I might be off by 1 tooth, left bank [driver side} seems to be the loudest. but again would the diagnostic scanner be able to see this,Ford dealer said it could use an injector cleaning,nothing else. Motor runs fine, no missing, no shake,starts perfect even in 10F temp. also at 95F, doesn't have any snap off the line ,or passing power, and noisy tapping and roaring. With the compression almost dead even I didn't think it could be the timing . There are no marks on the t/chains, the manual shows to count the links half way on the chain,21 ,mark links, ,one link on the crank t/mark and the other on the t/gear mark, not a good way to get both cam's timed right. No cam position reference either.

 

To check the cam timing you need to pull the front cover off. Pull the cam cover off and see what is loose or knocking. You may have a collapsed lash adjuster. bear in mind that these are interference engines. You may have already knocked a valve with the piston.

JMC

 

I am going to wait until I get the fuel pressure kit,it's a good one two guages ,tests high and low pressure and can clean with aerosol can. If that doesn't help I will tear it down to see what the cause is. When I did my first post I had just returned from an eye exam and I couldn't see very good, need new glasses. By the way the motor is a Windsor engine.

 

Look man, you need to quit pissing around. If you did your valve job then you **** up. If someone else did your valve job then you need to go back to them, have them fix it. If they try to charge you, tell them to eat a bowl of diks. Bluegrass is right on the money. I made the mistake of getting my cam off by one tooth on a four banger a few years ago and had the EXACT same problem you are having. Another 6 hours later I righted the mistake and she ran like a bat out of hell. Either you have a bad cam sensor (which I doubt) our you screwed your timing. How is the idle and response by the way?

 

Idle responce is pretty good,It will spin the wheels off the line and then start to go good until it seems to start loosing power, Lots of rev, but no punch.

 

does it seem like the tranny is slipping after a little bit when it looses power

 

If I take off peddle to the floor it doesn't want to up shift from 1st to second, trans fluid and filter changed in fall.

 

Hey sounds familiar. I'm having the same problem with my 98 4.6 4x4. I haven't had my engine apart or anything though. But I have changed the IAC, the EGR Valve, DPFE sensor, took off and cleaned the Throttle body intake(which was packed solid with carbon in the egr ports), cleaned MAF sensor, new wires, new plugs....ah, I think thats all. No, also replace o2 sensor on passenger side. The one before the cat. With all this. Still no power when put to the floor. Not like it should.

 

I had your problem with my 98 - New coils and injectors - it was a night and day difference . The truck felt 2000 lbs lighter after that. It was quick, snappy and when it got up to 3600 RPMS it puts you back in the seat. That was two years ago and it still halls a$$.

I purchased the coils and injectors NEW from ebay - Coils were $60 - Injectors were $65 - Best $125 I ever spent!!!

BTW - Make absolutly sure you have Motorcraft plugs in there or it doesn't matter what you do - it will always run like sh^t. Been there done that..

You need coil pacs - You can find those on ebay as well . I use COPs myself , here are the ones I purchased (they even came with new bolts).



New Type 3 injectors -

 

I did a fuel pressure test 26lb idle 32lb high rpm should be 30-45lb,I think the problem is when I pulled the gas lines up when they hooked on the motor when pulling it out,most likely streached and kinked them. Too cold to do it now as truck is too long to fit in garage and work around it,bummer,I have a heated garage too. I have 3/4" to clese the door.