Sir,
I have had the computer cleared so many times it's really getting painful and I have never had any codes come up about the fuel system. The only thing that has ever come up is Lean condition bank 1 an 2 and misfire #1. I think that I have taken care of the lean condition by finding and replacing that bad vac. line between the plenum and the egr line. It was a small 90 degree line that was completly gone, no wonder the engine was running rough and had a lean condition Bank 1 and 2, Duh!! I have not yet put a gauge on the fuel rail and am going to attempt that today. I understand about the injectors that is the last thing I want to tackle. I am trying to rule out every possible cause for this. What I did yesterday with the egr led me to believe that it was the egr but I don't really know. I will try to describe what happened:
I removed the vacuum line from the EGR at idle state there was no vacumm being pulled thru the line if any was very little. I then applied the emergency brake full on and had my daughter run the idle up to around 1200 r's reconnected the vac line and the engine started to shake, I then brought the engine speed back to idle and the shaking stopped. I'm thinking that it may be a bad egr or regulator???
I appologize for being rude or stubborn. I am just trying to do and understand what is going on with my engine, many of the parts needed replacing anyway. I never had a situation like this before. This is all electronic stuff and it could be very painful finding out the problems. I also have a 72 Gran Torino sport(355ci)nascar specs. and a 55 ford mainline all original. I can understand these cars what you see is what you get, not alot of hidden electronics and gremlins.....
I really do apprieciate the advice and help you'all have given.
Thanks Much,
Charlie

 

Hey no problem, but i do think when you figure out the problem it will be the EGR....it's crazy how these trucks act alike cuz i had to fix that line with the 90 degree bend also, right at the bend it had a huge hole...I also feel your pain about buying so many parts for your truck cuz i have thousands invested into mine, alot more money than i wanted to spend haha...i even had to replace the engine, it's been one huge nightmare since i got the truck really but i love the damn thing and i dunno why haha...but i hope ya get your truck all fixed up...
Thanks,
Adam

 

What do you mean ask your own question?

 

Cool Adam,
I apprieciate it, yup i love the damn thing too ya know, rescued it from an aution house back in 2003 and never had any problems with it until now. the engine light has been on for sometime probably because that vac line was going and it really didn't have a bad effect until now, it's got 195600.... been all over and have drove the wheels off of it and still chuggin it actually runs better now that it ever has.
Thanks,
Charlie

 

Like i have a question i would like to get comments on, like how you started this whole conversation...

Yea theres something about them ya just love...im highly satisfied with my truck now....i can easily spank a 4.6 stock and i can run even with a stock 5.4 as i've raced both....im hoping to program it up maybe a mass air sensor and new throttle body...i don't feel like going internal with it thats when stuff gets pricy...i've put i think 40,000 miles on the truck since i got it only 2 years ago...

 

"new thread" is what your looking for. At the top left of the main page in the forum you want. If its an engine related problem or question then click on "engine" in the forums. Then near the top left click new thread

 

ok well collin im geussing your problem is fixed? if not then im puttin all my money on the EGR's when you plug up that vacuum line and everything is good that 95% of the time means bad EGR's hope everything works out!

 

It's starts to shake when I plug it into the egr.
I think it is oposite of what you are describing??
This is what I did to question the egr:
I removed the vacuum line from the EGR while parked and idling it ran smooth, there was no vacumm being pulled thru the vacuum line, and if there was any it was very little, couldn't feel the sucking on my finger. I then applied the emergency brake full on and had my daughter run the idle up to around 1200 r's, I then reconnected the vacuum line(I checked and there was vacumm on the line) to the egr and the engine started to "shake" like a miss in the motor or dead cylinder, I then brought the engine speed back to idle with the vacuum line connected to the egr and the shaking stopped. I'm thinking that it may be a bad egr not opening up or regulator

This is the same shake I get when I'm bring up the throttle thru the gears at very low speed up to around 40-45 or in overdrive, when I give it gas (there is more vacuum produced)the shaking quits, also in a free wheelin state it shakes alittle. I also have checked out the universal joints, rear end, tires and have gotten opinions about the torque converter. All that seems to be fine.
Also, I have had the computer cleared many times and then when the shutter/vibration starts the check engine light starts flashing and then stays on continuous. I am going to get the computer cleared again but i'm going to write down the codes and see what they mean when and if the check engine light comes back on when I clear the computer this time.

Does that make sense

 

You need to correct your thinking.
The more throttle opening, the less vacuum in the intake.
Put a vacuum gauge on and see this.
If the EGR is being opened a small amount, the lower vacuum supply would tend to close it up.
Is the EVR leaking too much vacuum by it? Either it is or is not!
I discribed the way the system operates. Did you get it or not believe it?
You have somewhat of a hard spot in your armor to get thru.

As they say in two way radio, over and out, 73s, QRT etc. and QSY up the board a ways.
Good luck.

 

10-4 over>>>>
It is a little confusing, but I think I understand now. I haven't messed with this kind of problem before it's kinda new to me.. I am dreaming about sensors hahahahaha!!! I'll see if some one has a gauge to test it with and I'll let you know how it goes. And see about the fuel pressure test at the rail just to make sure.
Thanks much,

 

This may be a weird question but, Where is the EVR located???

 

Follow the small hose from the EGR right back to the EVR.
It will have an electrical connector and another hose to intake manifold vacuum.
The hoses must be good and not reversed.
The EVR is a special design that passes vacuum to the EGR under command but lets 'air' back in to the EGR for release and may have a filter in it's housing.
It can become dirt plugged causing the EGR to close to slowly..

 

Mr. Bluegrass
MY very good friend,
You nailed the problem right on,
I thought about what you were saying about the vacuum line on the egr and removing it a plugging it up.
WELLLLLLL, on the way home from work today I stopped found something to plug the line with, and it runs smooth a glass all vibration gone low speed, mid speed in over-drive, any drive.
Now as I understand it that tells me that I have a bad EVR or EGR???
Hell I am afraid to take the ink pen!!! out of the tube it runs soooooooo gooood!!! smoother than it ever has. THANK YOU!!!!!
Absolutley superb!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please advise about the EGR or EVR.

Thanks very much,
BIG LEARNING LESSON
Charlie

 

Now that we got this far, either replace the EVR, or test how much vacuum is getting by it and if it is just dirty and sticking.
Blocking by disconnect from the EGR does tell you the EGR closes tight.
There is a remote chance the spring internal to the EGR may be weak or broken but highly unlikely.
Only results of running without a functioning EGR is a code and CEL lamp plus higher NOX emmissions.
Now the PCM can't test the 400 series routines and fails the first one it tries, then suspends all the rest of those tests.
No substitute for knowing all the dynamics involved.
This is why doctors do what they do and get well paid for it.

 

After I test the EVR for vacuum to see if it is bad or just dirty, Can you remove and clean the EVR or would it be better to just replace it?
What was the " value for the vacuum if it is good or what should I look for when I put the testor on it?
Also, What does the acronym "PCM" stand for? Is that the computer module? And is it good or bad that it suspends the tests?