Well I haven't went that far yet but I've got a good start hahaha!!!
I'm just tryin to take all this in stride. Tryin to keep a sense of humor ya know.
But it is a little painful.
Thanks Much

 

What are you doing ? Causing your own pain - Guys , he didn't even check the fuel pressure yet?

I mentioned that in post 8 and then gave you and explanation below that ?

You ask for help , but ignore what you need to do? Like I said before , you need to check your pressure at the rail and the regulator. Leave your EGR and IAC alone - Their not doing anything wrong..

First thing that should have been done is rule out a possible fuel delivery problem..What are you going to check next , your muffler bearings?

You have to listen dude, if you truely want to fix the problem.

 

Sir,
Let me ask you a question if it is a fuel delivery problem. If I start from a dead stop and romp it and it runs perfect no missing cutting out stalling or just quitting on me because of lack of fuel. Do you still think it would be a fuel presure situation? I have replaced the fuel filter (which you did recommend in thread #8)but did not think it was a fuel presure problem. Excuse me. I will check the pressure at the rail and regulator now and I will get back to you "for shure". I want to rule out everything I possibly can before replacing any more parts.
BTW: When I check these items what should the nominal pressure range be??
And if it is not pressure or regulator problems? Well what would you suggest then? hmmm
BTW: All the parts I have replaced are past due for replacing as I said I do have 195660 miles on this truck and I resent the remark about the muffler bearings.
Thanks

 

Holey hell

Nevermind-----------------K

Handle it then.

Good luck

 

You said the original miss was at take off and "freewheeling" but you fixed that with the bad vacuum line and now it "vibrates" between 10 and 40... Hell, that could be a bad tire

 

You Didn't Answer My Question What Should The Pressure Be At The Rail???

 

Nope tires are spin balanced, I can be going down the road at around 45 while it is doing this vibration thing and take it out of gear and the vibration goes away. This vibration I am almost sure is coming from the engine. I did something last night that kinda directs me to the EGR. I put the parking brake on and put it in drive and had my daughter rev up the motor just a little maybe around 1500 rpm. I disconnected the vacuum line from the egr and it did have a vacuum on it, then I put the vacuum line back on the EGR and the engine started to shake a little. Does this mean that I have a bad EGR?
I drove the truck into work this morning and it ran smooth as silk, it seems as tho it only starts this shaking after it really warms up and it does this when I am in a stable speed in overdrive at about 40-50 mph.
After I replaced the bad vacuum line most of the miss or vibration went away there is something else that is causing this vibration and I will find it. The person that told me that it was a fuel pressure problem never answered my question on what the nominal pressure is at the rail. I really want to make sure that it is not a fuel delivery problem just to satisfy his opinion.
I did change out the fuel filter and then drove the truck same thing was happening no change. I guess some folks just have attitude.
His initial answer on thread #8 was:
Fuel Filter or Regulator maybe. You test the pressure @ the rail. You can check the regulator that way.

Always go through the fuel system first with this kind of problem , it's fairly easy to do ..If theres a pressure problem. Replace the filter and test again.
What are you doing ? Causing your own pain - Guys , he didn't even check the fuel pressure yet?

I mentioned that in post 8 and then gave you and explanation below that ?

You ask for help , but ignore what you need to do? Like I said before , you need to check your pressure at the rail and the regulator. Leave your EGR and IAC alone - Their not doing anything wrong..

First thing that should have been done is rule out a possible fuel delivery problem..What are you going to check next , your muffler bearings?

You have to listen dude, if you truely want to fix the problem.

Holey hell

Nevermind-----------------K

Handle it then.

Good luck


Thanks for your help
Charlie

 

All I see in the link is a speedo??? Bad video. Is this your answer on the fuel pressure?

 

Nope tires are spin balanced, I can be going down the road at around 45 while it is doing this vibration thing and take it out of gear and the vibration goes away. This vibration I am almost sure is coming from the engine. I did something last night that kinda directs me to the EGR. I put the parking brake on and put it in drive and had my daughter rev up the motor just a little maybe around 1500 rpm. I disconnected the vacuum line from the egr and it did have a vacuum on it, then I put the vacuum line back on the EGR and the engine started to shake a little. Does this mean that I have a bad EGR?
I drove the truck into work this morning and it ran smooth as silk, it seems as tho it only starts this shaking after it really warms up and it does this when I am in a stable speed in overdrive at about 40-50 mph.
After I replaced the bad vacuum line most of the miss or vibration went away there is something else that is causing this vibration and I will find it. The person that told me that it was a fuel pressure problem never answered my question on what the nominal pressure is at the rail. I really want to make sure that it is not a fuel delivery problem just to satisfy his opinion.
I did change out the fuel filter and then drove the truck same thing was happening no change. I guess some folks just have attitude.
His initial answer on thread #8 was:
Fuel Filter or Regulator maybe. You test the pressure @ the rail. You can check the regulator that way.

Always go through the fuel system first with this kind of problem , it's fairly easy to do ..If theres a pressure problem. Replace the filter and test again.
What are you doing ? Causing your own pain - Guys , he didn't even check the fuel pressure yet?

I mentioned that in post 8 and then gave you and explanation below that ?

You ask for help , but ignore what you need to do? Like I said before , you need to check your pressure at the rail and the regulator. Leave your EGR and IAC alone - Their not doing anything wrong..

First thing that should have been done is rule out a possible fuel delivery problem..What are you going to check next , your muffler bearings?

You have to listen dude, if you truely want to fix the problem.

Holey hell

Nevermind-----------------K

Handle it then.

Good luck


Thanks for your help
Charlie

 

Now that the horns (__) have been polished a bit, here are the ranges normally found.
Running motor can swing between 28 and 50 psi due to vacuum conditions the regulator sees.
No running motor, 35 to 45 psi, static.
And consider the gauge accuracy.

If you see a reaction to the blocking of the EGR line to the EGR, I would say the vacuum control regulator is allowing vacuum to pass when it should not.
The reaction you see is from the air entering the intake and not always from a bad EGR. This is why logic has to be applied in testing.
The EGR operates at vacuum levels between 3 and about 6", not full intake vacuum levels.
Note; That once the EGR has enough vacuum applied, the EVR has to open to air for it to release it's diaphram. If not, the open EGR will cause a problem even if it is to slow closeing due to the EVR leaking.
A leaking regulator allowing more than 1" may cause you a problem because the EGR has a calibrated spring that the vacuum has to overcome, to open the valve.
Simple to remove the hose from the EGR and plug it.
If your problem goes away, you got it. Replace the vacuum regulator (EVR).
With all this said, the EGR system should be easy to test out.
If nothing found, then you have a problem in some other area with plugs, ignition, or cylinder issues.

 

Hi,
That is good advice and i will check out the fuel pressure. thanks but on the other hand about the egr..
I am not disputing you at all. When I got the reaction is when I had the motor reved up to around 1200 rpm and then hooked the vacumm line back up to the EGR that is when the motor started to shake and when it went to idle motor got smooth.
there was no reaction when I had it loose from the egr and covered the end of the line. BTW it had what i thought was good vacuum at around 1200-1300 rpm it should have opened up the egr. Yes?
I hope I described it the right way.
Thanks

 

Hey who's to say it couldn't be a fuel delievery problem but im quite sure if it was then you would have a engine code thrown......I had the same exact stuff happening to his truck to my truck to a tee so i was just telling him what i think he should do the EGR is 60 bucks.....replace it if it don't work take it back off and get your money for it....i'd do that before i started replacing pricey injectors....

 

When you replaced the wires and/or the plugs did you put dielectric grease in the wire boots before reinstalling the boot to the plug?

If not go buy a tube of dielectric grease and remove the boot from each plug and load it up with the grease and reinstall. I went through a similar problem as you and when I used the grease it solved the problem 100%.

Seems that the spark traveling down the wire was jumping down the side of the boot (intermittently) and shorting out on the nut part of the plug!
The grease will keep this from happening. I have not had any problems since.

 

VERY GOOD!!!
I did not do that, I had heard that if you put the dielectric on the end of the wires before you connect it to the coil pack and the boots you would have better fire. I do that asa I get home, at work at present.
Thanks MUCH!!!

 

how do you make a post and i can't figure it out for the life of me...like how do you ask your own question?