No holes in this frame. But they do have history of rusting from the inside out. This is actually a unibody car. '67 model Convert. I'll upload a pic or two to my Gallery.

 

nice, i got your cars lil bro.

67 fairlane gta

 

Fairlane?? Them are sweet too. The Galaxie is a 1967 Gal 500 convert, with 390 cid motor 3 speed auto trans, drum brakes all four corners very fun to drive, very unfun to stop. I do have a Disc conversion by Scarebird that I have yet to install. Will try to do it sometime this spring early summer. Only other thing I would like to do to it other than brakes is DUI distributor. HEI, only for a FORD! Then it should be a very cool driver. It won't ever be show quality, but I don't want a show car. Just something reliable, and fun to drive, that you don't see very often.

 

Well the plugs are changed, well seven of them anyway. #8, will have to be done by someone better than me. Problem is the spark plug boot ripped into two pieces as it came out. From what I can tell there is 3/4" of boot still on the plug. To make matters worse, in my efforts to push a socket over the top of the remaining boot, I pushed it down over the hex of the spark plug. Making it nearly impossible to get out. I have spent 6 hours changing plugs. 2.5 hours on 7 plugs and the remainder on #8, which still is not fixed. We have tryed using a screw driver to get between the boot and the plug, tried using needle nose (what a joke that was), and every other imaginable way to remove it, with no luck. This boot ripping happened on 3-4 other plugs, but this was the worst. No dielectric grease was used before, when the "Split Fire" plugs were installed. Every Boot was stuck to the plug in one way or another. Reinstalled the ripped boot for the time being. Hopefully it will get me for a while.

The Coil packs were easy enough. The Plug wires were easy, 'cept rerunning them, uff what a nightmare. The FORD wire hold downs were a nightmare to get open. Most of them are in the most inaccessable place they can be. After this, I have considered buying a GM truck, if I didn't think my dad would come back from the Dead and KICK MY A$Z. All in all wasn't horible, but still got one I need to get done.

Will be finishing the Oil and filter changes tomarrow. TOO tired tonight. I helped a buddy change brakes on his wifes car before we started on my truck. 9 hours of wrenching has me a bit wore out.

If anyone has any Idea how to get the remainder of boot out I am ALL EARS!!!

Sorry for the long post, I am tired and I ramble when I aget that way, see there I go again.

 

sounds like you need to try and cut it off. got a razor blade you can trim down and reach in with long needle nose? i think if you can cut it on one side enough you can split it off with something else and pull it up. if not run back outside and try squirting it a lil lube for overnight

yeah my fairlane gta (500 body) had disc's up front that my dad stole for his ranchero back in the day. had a 390 with auto that was never in it when dad bought it. i have to fix the dash and the front clip, the roof needs some lovin where someone bondo'd hard core and it'll be sound! well minus that f'n crack at the very back of the rear side windows, its a nice lookin 2dr hard top fairlane for sittin out in a field with cows for 25 - 30 years

 

JB weld a xacto blade ot a piece of coathanger wire. when it dries its a very long bendable razor. take your time and trim out the remainder of the boot. the jb weld will take a while to dry( "JB Quick" is faster but for full cure on either your are looking at an overnight kind of time) but using super glue or something else may leave you with an exacto blade floating around in your engine.

 

This is all a null point. The original problem I was out to fix is still there, and now I know I have more problems. UFF, am I getting frustrated. This may require an actual mechanic to fix.

I am starting to think I may have a blown head gasket, as the #4 plug had OIL all over it. And the tip / electrode was covered in oil, and was obvious it had not fired in a while. Another reason I wonder about head gasket is at cold the engine runs good / smooth at idle, under load it still shudders, but the warmer it gets the worse the problem gets. After the truck is warm it shudders at idle. The 45 minute drive to work and back gets pretty hairy by the time I get there. I think the only reason a code has not resurfaced yet, only about 2 miles of driving since new plugs, is it has not had time to fowl out yet. Truck still shudders from a dead stop, and with any kind of a load, the slightest of hills or throttle input. I am going to change the filters later today, afternoon, in the freezing range outside right now. I will double check all of the Plug connections then also.

I am actually worried that a new engine maybe in my near future. For the simple fact that I don't know what all is wrong with this truck. Either that or fix as cheaply as possible and get rid of it, but I hate to screw someone else like that. I could use a Focus for some fuel economy though. The worst part is 4 months ago I had a back up car, for just this situation, that had not been driven but maybe 3 times in the year prior, so we got rid of it. I knew it was going to happen though, it always does.

Sorry for the rant. If anyone has any ideas as to what could still be wrong. I am all ears. How can I check for a Head gasket gone / going bad? Compression check? Could it be a cracked piston, that just hasn't come apart yet?

 

Well that sucks - Before you go thru a compression test. - Theres a big stud on the front of the motor. Make a length of wire with alligator clips at each end. Take an old plug and put that in #4 boot. Connect the length of wire to the plug with the other end connected to that big stud bolt in front.

Start and confirm spark.


If you have spark , swap #4 injector with #1 injector. Does the fault move to #1? If so , you need an injector.

Make sure your wires are right - they are easy to mix up.

 

Wires are right, I triple checked them. And used the original coils to verify them again. I have yet to recieve a CEl again, but as stated have only drvien is 2-3 miles at best all of which is in town. Has only thrown codes in the past when out on the highway. Which seems weird to me.

I have a CODE reader. Auto X-Ray unit, from O'Reilly. Is it worth my while to take to a mechanic to have a diagnostic machine check it? I just don't want to spend the next month trying to diagnose this thing.

 

I cant find it now but there is an write somewhere on how to drive the truck to get it to cycle through all its tests and post codes sooner. One of the test invloves holding it at speed (~60-65 I think) for 3 minutes, you probably get the codes on freeways because thats when your comp finishes the last test.

 

Figures I remember where I found it after posting, read through this to get your comp through the full OBDII test set and get your codes.
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

 

Anfo,

Thanks for the link. The funny thing is that is almost to a T my driving style going to and from work.

I still think I have more wrong than the a Misfire. But I could be wrong.

 

You won't know until you perform those tests I described in detail earlier.

 

you'd be surprised how much 1 cyl misfiring can deceive you.

 

Hey Klitch!! - https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=314319