throttle position sensor

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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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From: Alex Bay, NY
throttle position sensor

hey guys, I wanted to check and set my sensor voltage but I cannot for the life of me get those damned screws loose! And I slipped on one of them so I stopped and decided to ask here instead.

I also got the voltage to measure....I think...and it was bouncing all over like from 1-3volts and then down to 2.34 and hovering then bouncing a little....I'm not sure if its bad or if i just had bad connections, i didn't know the best way to really "tap" the wires so i kinda shoved pins in there and tried it, then used the multimeters probe tips which seemed to yield the best readings.

Anyways, can anyone point me in the right direction? If the TPS is bad, can i get one at NAPA or even can i get replacement screws for mine now it it is good and they end up getting mangled?

THANKS!
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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you shouldnt need to take the throttle plate off to test it. Its that what you are talking about? Or are you talking about the bolts that go through the TB into the elbow? make sure you are using a 6pt socket on those. Its what a 10mm?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 02:02 PM
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The sensor is held on my phillips head screws. #2 seemed to fit them the best. I am under the impression you need to loosen them to rotate the body and be able to "adjust" its voltage at idle.

D
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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From: DFW
take off the intake up until the throttle body, rotate the blade open and closed monitoring voltage. The part you adjust for the idle is the screw that stops the cable arm. Unless you are moving the sensor itself, then its the phillips screw as you are describing.

My best suggestion on screws is pushdown really hard on the screw even tho you are loosening it so it doesnt slip. Try some penatrating oil on them maybe.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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This might not be good because its a "sensor" so dont quote me on this but on other items when the screws wont come out ive put as much pressure on them with one hand and in the direction of taking them off then while doing that give them a few light taps with a heavy object, hammer, handle of jack, anything. Again, that is a sensor so that might not be a good idea, i dont know how fragile they are.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 12:54 AM
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From: NEVADA
Try a battery drill with a clutch. Be sure that the phillips tip is the best fit in the screw head. Last resort is to cut off the screw heads with a die grinder.
Before you do all of the above, check the voltage, it may be OK. You can use two safety pins pressed directly into the wires for a good connection.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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ok guys, I got a snap on thingy that you can attach a bit to and hit it with a hammer, it has a weight it in and i guess it really torques the bit and will break the locktite. A friend lent it to me and he said also try some heat if I'm not having any luck. Does anyone know what type of thread these are in case I need replacements?

Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 05:52 AM
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Ya those bolts have thread locker applied i think? The only way mine came out was by loosening them with a pair of small vise grips first to break the seal. Also you don't need to loosen the TPS for adjustment because there is no adjustment on them. You can make it adjustable by taking the brass inserts and drilling them out to give you adjustment.
Do an advanced search in the Lightning forums on adjusting the TPS for pics and further instructions on what the voltages are for the best throttle response. Do the voltage check first to see where it is at.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 06:40 AM
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http://www.muscularmustangs.com/tps.php
This is for a car, but the same as a truck... and the screws can be a SOB. Maybe try a "screwout" from Sears??
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 08:40 AM
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I replaced my TPS, but it wasn't screws. It was a #20 torx bit. And it was a beyottch. I almost stripped the torx. They are really long, and it doesn't come out easier once the locktite has been broken.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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The "screw-outs" from Sears work great. Another option, if the screw head is stripped, is to cut a slot in the head with a Dremel, and use a large-handle (for better mechanical advantage) flat-blade screwdriver.

Good luck.

Andy
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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ALright guys thanks for the suggestions! My friend lent me that snap on tool that has a cam in it, supposed to not strip or break the head but should "remove by high torque", supposedly. He also said the locktite should degrade with high heat application.

On a good note how do I know when I have a good connection with the multimeter? I keep getting unsteady readings. I think someone mentioned safety pins are good because of the loop in them to wedge the probes in.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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So does anyone know if I could change the screws to socket heads? (bolts)? Or is this a "special" thread type?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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From: NEVADA
Originally Posted by NYfordguy
On a good note how do I know when I have a good connection with the multimeter?
I'm trying to remember...... are there three wires? I think one will be a 5v source, and one a ground. Try finding the 5v and ground, and you can use the 5v (known voltage) to check you multimeter and connection set up.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Yea , those damn screws are a PITA if you don't go about it right from the get go. First of all , the screws will come loose right away with a light duty cordless impact - you would be shocked how well that works

You want the meter to read over .99 I believe - I haven't done mine yet . Theres a thread on it somewhere in the intake forum..

If the TPS has bushings (some don't , like Auto Zones) you can drill them out so there adjustable to achieve the correct meter reading..

I plan to do this in the near future.. I have that mod copied out in the shop , but I know it doesn't point out the correct wires to test. You should be able to figure that out I would think..

Good Luck
 

Last edited by jbrew; Dec 23, 2007 at 06:01 PM.
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