timing chain tensioner
timing chain tensioner
I recently bought a 04 F150 Supercrew FX4. After driving it for a whole 3 days, it went to the shop for a noise that sounded like a lifter tick. I was told it was a timing chain tensioner. Two weeks later, I am finally going to get this truck back. 2 ? Is this a common thing and 2 Ford charged me close to 2500 to fix it, did I get hosed?
Originally Posted by ditchdoc94
I recently bought a 04 F150 Supercrew FX4. After driving it for a whole 3 days, it went to the shop for a noise that sounded like a lifter tick. I was told it was a timing chain tensioner. Two weeks later, I am finally going to get this truck back. 2 ? Is this a common thing and 2 Ford charged me close to 2500 to fix it, did I get hosed?
Originally Posted by Cpt.Crunch
That's a bit pricey. I have the same problem with an 04 f150 5.4 liter. I was quoted a 10 hour job(at dealership) at shop rates ($68/hour) plus parts would be about $1000 -$1100. I've had 3 different mechanics look at it, 1 dealer and 2 independents and they have all come up with the same diagnosis. Before I fix mine I will have the price set. Let me know if the noise stopped.
Originally Posted by TNC
What made you take it in in the first place? Noise or something else. Just curious......
2 Ford dealerships say it will not harm the engine, however it bugs me enough to look into getting it fixed. Apparently it is the cylinders that hold the tensioners in place that are a problem.
Originally Posted by Cpt.Crunch
There is a rattle on startup that lasts one to two seconds. It was doing it once and a while, mostly after the truck had sat for an hour or more. Then the noise occurred almost every time I started the engine. The oil was fine, oil pressure was fine, manifold was ok, engine mounts were tight, etc. The noise is coming from the front of the motor in the area of the timing chain.
2 Ford dealerships say it will not harm the engine, however it bugs me enough to look into getting it fixed. Apparently it is the cylinders that hold the tensioners in place that are a problem.
2 Ford dealerships say it will not harm the engine, however it bugs me enough to look into getting it fixed. Apparently it is the cylinders that hold the tensioners in place that are a problem.
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Originally Posted by Tumba
what kind of oil filter are you useing?


The question is, will it do damage if left unrepaired?
ouch, expensive noise
Originally Posted by Cpt.Crunch
That's a bit pricey. I have the same problem with an 04 f150 5.4 liter. I was quoted a 10 hour job(at dealership) at shop rates ($68/hour) plus parts would be about $1000 -$1100. I've had 3 different mechanics look at it, 1 dealer and 2 independents and they have all come up with the same diagnosis. Before I fix mine I will have the price set. Let me know if the noise stopped.
This experiece shows why it is reccomended to use 5w20 blend oil and the 820s filter.
The 5w oil builds oil pressure faster taking up chain slack for less noise and faster lubrication.
The 820s filter controls drain back better and helps with the quick buildup of pressure at inital start.
Heavier oil weights, put to much tension on the chain guides and wear them too fast.
Cold weather makes this even worse with heavey oils.
With 5w20 oils, the startup pressures are in the 75 to 100 psi range depending on what pressures the oil pump bypasses at.
Heavey oil makes the bypass sluggish and may build higher pressure longer until the oil heats and begins to thin. During that time chain guide wear could be higher. Repeated over a long time interval and you may be lucky to not have a problem.
All that is needed is to keep a film of oil between sliding surfaces.
If not allowed to over heat and break down this film, heavier oils have no advantage. The fact that the 5 w 20 flows so easy, carries heat way from the sliding/bearing surfaces as well as being enough of a seperating film.
The blends have a higher breakdown temp as well as the full syns have even higher, but is it really needed?
Even dino oil, if staying in the 5w20 range, will still lube and cool.
Be wise and use what the mfger calls for to get the best overall relibality, cost and low wear.
Like anything else there are times things break reguardlees of what is used otherwise most everybody would buy the same make, if it never had any problems.
The 5w oil builds oil pressure faster taking up chain slack for less noise and faster lubrication.
The 820s filter controls drain back better and helps with the quick buildup of pressure at inital start.
Heavier oil weights, put to much tension on the chain guides and wear them too fast.
Cold weather makes this even worse with heavey oils.
With 5w20 oils, the startup pressures are in the 75 to 100 psi range depending on what pressures the oil pump bypasses at.
Heavey oil makes the bypass sluggish and may build higher pressure longer until the oil heats and begins to thin. During that time chain guide wear could be higher. Repeated over a long time interval and you may be lucky to not have a problem.
All that is needed is to keep a film of oil between sliding surfaces.
If not allowed to over heat and break down this film, heavier oils have no advantage. The fact that the 5 w 20 flows so easy, carries heat way from the sliding/bearing surfaces as well as being enough of a seperating film.
The blends have a higher breakdown temp as well as the full syns have even higher, but is it really needed?
Even dino oil, if staying in the 5w20 range, will still lube and cool.
Be wise and use what the mfger calls for to get the best overall relibality, cost and low wear.
Like anything else there are times things break reguardlees of what is used otherwise most everybody would buy the same make, if it never had any problems.


