Hehehehe!

It does tell you on the can not to do that ****. If I'm going to do it the lazy way and not remove the MAF from the tube, I'm going to blow it dry with a can of air before putting it back together and firing it up.

 

lol , Ahhhh, just use the compressor man , you can get carried away and still have plenty of air on reserve - Just throw a good Milton (or Ingersoll) water separator in between you and the tank somewhere and your good to go.

Compressors have a million uses don't they ? I stepped in dog sh^t a little while back and didn't quite get it clean enough with the garden hose. Shot a good slug of air into my cleats and there spotless !!

Butt, Uhh, keep in mind It's not always a good thing looking at what your sprayin

 

Just cleaned mine this morning. I'm over 100,000 and had the truck 3 years and never did it and doubt if the previous owner did. I did it the hard way and removed the sensor because I wanted to get a better look at it just because I was curious. I wanted to punch it when I left the house but wouldn't you know it was snowing and the roads already slushy. Maybe it's my imagination but with normal driving the engine did seem a tad more responsive. Imagination or not, from now on I will do it on a regular basis.

 

If I had a compressor, I'd use it.

 

I wouldnt suggest using compressed air, any amount of air that would knock loose oil and dirt would put a heck of vibration on that little wire. just my opinion, but thats a risk that I wont take. The spray does a damn good job, seeing that I could clean about 10,000 sensors with one can its a pretty good buy.

 

I can't see how a can of compressed air would be any worse than hitting it with the compressed air/liquid mixture that comes out of the can of cleaner. Now if you were to hit it with 150psi that might be different.

 

They were saying to use a Air compressor, what I am saying is the pressure isnt doing the work, the solvent is. Rub your hands in you engine compartment for a little while, then try to get it off with 120 psi of compressed air. Or take your MAF cleaner and spay your hands tell me what works better. Then figure the maf sensor is probably about as sensitive as your ear drum, and i wouldnt try to get the wax out of there with a can of air either. That thing is very sensitive and very important to the performance of your ride.

 

We aren't talking about cleaning the sensor with compressed air - we are talking about drying it off after hosing it down with the cleaner instead of waiting for it to evaporate by itself. I certainly won't get a rag anywhere near it to dry it off.

 

^^^ what he said

 

Better safe than sorry I always say. The stuff dries stupid fast, and it wont hurt plastic at all. There is no reason to risk the integrity of the wires with a can o air, or a compressor. Especially if someone doesnt know it isnt the most durable part on the truck. I would hate to see someone mess theirs up cause they got carried away trying to clean the thing is all. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pm-3...-oz-05110.aspx

 

Yea , you just keep your hands off the compressor - You definitely haven't a clue what your talking about or what your doing..

First of all, air doesn't "knock"the sh^t off the sensor. After you use a light duty penetrate and give it just a little time to start working - a little bit a compressed air to assist is your best friend.

2nd - Where the hell is all that dirt and oil coming from you speak off ? You know , wiping out the filter housing before you attempt to clean the MAF ain't such a bad idea.

What do you mean "any amount of air "??? WTF do think goes on inside there after you turn the key ???? Air freakin Flow, a good amount of it flies by that every second the motors running . I mean , what the hell do you think the MAF sensor does??

What the ..?? What the hells wrong with you ?? - they don't vibrate..

I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have 250,000 miles on my stock MAF sensor if I didn't know what I was doing ..

Listen to what other s are saying because your sure as hell not ready to dictate.

Oh and uhh - that's just my opinion..

 

ding,ding,ding,ding- and that's the end of round 1

 

easy bro, This post was started by someone who had never done this before. I just would hate to see someone, sticken there air nozzle in there trying to save 6.99. IF you want to take 80 grit to the thing I could give 2 dueces. Im not trying to question any post experts here, but come on the stuff takes all of seven seconds to dry, tell me why its a good idea to risk it at all. AIR flow and compressed air are very different, your are talking CFM to PSI. And as you put it second of all, if there is no dirt in there that I speak of why are we even cleaning the thing. I got nothin but love for ya, but just think of someone that reads a post to clean his maf and thinks he could just blast it with his compressor. Im not saying you are wrong, just trying to prevent anyone from screwing up there ride to work. We still tight Brew, cmon you cant stay mad at me, think of the kids.

 

shweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew!
got tense there for a minute
it'll be allright

 

I was all fired up and got ready to remove the bolts to clean the MAF and could not because right in the middle of the torque bolt theres this little piece of metal which keeps me from putting the star wrench to the bolt. Is anyone had this problem or do I need a speical torque wrench to get these bolts off? thanks I can't wait to get the maf cleaned. Never mind
"Tamper Proof Torx bits"