5.4 Misses
Originally Posted by jbrew
Yea , best tune up for these trucks . Keeping the integrity of the ignition system is key . When the PCM sends that low voltage signal to each coil and they all react the same way - she performs as she should , you may have to hang on to something after 3600 RPMs - she really pulls with a healthy system.
Changing them all at once is the best thing to when they get old.
What happens with age is the windings begin to breakdown inside the coils and your truck will run like it's heavy,tired and constipated. ---Fact..
Good luck with her~

Changing them all at once is the best thing to when they get old.
What happens with age is the windings begin to breakdown inside the coils and your truck will run like it's heavy,tired and constipated. ---Fact..
Good luck with her~

Wow that kinda sounds how my truck has seemed lately.
I plan on getting those COP's and new plugs soon as I get the money together. Putting some extra OT in at work so I can.
Well I thought I found the bad one last night. Number 3 had a bunch of rust around it and the boot of the plug wire thingy was really covered with rust dust. I used a piece of fuel line to blow the rust out of the hole. Looked at it with a mirror and saw brown crap cooked to the top of the plug. Took the plug out and cleaned it up. Top of the COP had a very very small hole in it and a crack less than a quarter inch long. But this morning on the way in I could get it to miss. But I don't think it is missing as bad. I will leave it this way until I determine if it is missing half as bad or what.
I better just buy the whole damn set.
I better just buy the whole damn set.
OK, I'm going to order all new cops. Need to wait for my paypal account to get set up first.
Almost hate to ask.... but what plugs should I put in while I replace the cops? I think I put the autolite double platinum in a year ago or so.
Is there another ebay store or some place to get the plugs you recommend?
Thanks again for all the help.
Almost hate to ask.... but what plugs should I put in while I replace the cops? I think I put the autolite double platinum in a year ago or so.
Is there another ebay store or some place to get the plugs you recommend?
Thanks again for all the help.
I don't know of any that are cheap- But I definitely would swap those out for motor-craft in that truck..
I did the same thing you doing now in my 98 two years ago - you going to be surprised - Make sure you clean the MAF while your at it- that's IMPORTANT and like I said before, your truck is going to be responsive, feel light and pull like hell , specially after 3600 RPMS...
Clean you MAF too , here's how -
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/clean-...low-sensor.php
Some special care is to be taken with the plug changeout - Go to the top of the page and click on the "tech articles" - Matt has instructions in there that are pretty good - sept , go heavier on the grease..and seal the chambers when done.
I did the same thing you doing now in my 98 two years ago - you going to be surprised - Make sure you clean the MAF while your at it- that's IMPORTANT and like I said before, your truck is going to be responsive, feel light and pull like hell , specially after 3600 RPMS...
Clean you MAF too , here's how -
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/clean-...low-sensor.php
Some special care is to be taken with the plug changeout - Go to the top of the page and click on the "tech articles" - Matt has instructions in there that are pretty good - sept , go heavier on the grease..and seal the chambers when done.
Last edited by jbrew; Oct 3, 2007 at 03:36 PM.
JBREW:
You said to go heavier on the grease. I assume you mean the dialectric grease.
You also said to seal the chamber. What do you mean by that?
I looked at Matt's page. Good page. The plug pictured in that page looks really good. All of mine that came out a 70k or so had a white calcium like deposit on the ground electrodes. Any clue what that is?
What is the part number for the Motorcraft platinum plugs?
Thanks.
You said to go heavier on the grease. I assume you mean the dialectric grease.
You also said to seal the chamber. What do you mean by that?
I looked at Matt's page. Good page. The plug pictured in that page looks really good. All of mine that came out a 70k or so had a white calcium like deposit on the ground electrodes. Any clue what that is?
What is the part number for the Motorcraft platinum plugs?
Thanks.
Originally Posted by jeister
JBREW:
You said to go heavier on the grease. I assume you mean the dialectric grease.
You also said to seal the chamber. What do you mean by that?
I looked at Matt's page. Good page. The plug pictured in that page looks really good. All of mine that came out a 70k or so had a white calcium like deposit on the ground electrodes. Any clue what that is?
What is the part number for the Motorcraft platinum plugs?
Thanks.
You said to go heavier on the grease. I assume you mean the dialectric grease.
You also said to seal the chamber. What do you mean by that?
I looked at Matt's page. Good page. The plug pictured in that page looks really good. All of mine that came out a 70k or so had a white calcium like deposit on the ground electrodes. Any clue what that is?
What is the part number for the Motorcraft platinum plugs?
Thanks.
Prolly just old and you've had vac leaks in the past - were they all like that , if so - don't worry about it..
Seal the chambers between the boots and the head after the install- that way the will be protectected from getting wet for awhile.
Actually, if you install #10 and #8 o-rings over the boots , then seal - it will last for a long time..
Last edited by jbrew; Oct 3, 2007 at 05:30 PM.
Not to throw this too much off topic, but I took my 07 in this morning and they diagnosed it as having 2 bad injectors, not COP's like I thought I had reading this thread. I take it back tomorrow morning to have the work done (they didn't have any in stock??)
I'll report back once it's done.
I'll report back once it's done.
For OEM parts I recommend going to http://www.motorcraft.com/catalog.do for all your part info. Makes things easier. Between this and autozone it looks like the sp479's are the way to go for you. They are platinum plugs.
Originally Posted by dewalt17
For OEM parts I recommend going to http://www.motorcraft.com/catalog.do for all your part info. Makes things easier. Between this and autozone it looks like the sp479's are the way to go for you. They are platinum plugs.
Yup!! tho's are 22's

Don't over tighten the bushings - the COP must move on these - The ears can break off easily -

Don't get the CRC stuff - good idea , but it doesn't work well , get the permatex in the tube - get the big tube -

Tape this 7mm socket to the extension , or you'll loose it!! AND be fishing for it with a magnet -
Last edited by jbrew; Oct 3, 2007 at 06:03 PM.
I would check all these lines for flow , sometimes the elbows get pressed to far into the 1/4 inch lines and won't flow -

Pay special attention to the PCV elbow upon re assembly - it can develop pin holes and are a mother to get to when fully assembled, they plug in behind the IAC into the lower intake.

Don't forget about the MAF -

It's easy when all that crap is out of the way -

Pay special attention to the PCV elbow upon re assembly - it can develop pin holes and are a mother to get to when fully assembled, they plug in behind the IAC into the lower intake.

Don't forget about the MAF -

It's easy when all that crap is out of the way -
Last edited by jbrew; Oct 3, 2007 at 06:15 PM.
Thanks for all the help.
I cleaned the mass air flow sensor this spring.
I'll look at the elbows. I didn't realize they can be pressed in to far. What happens when the are pressed in to far? I did follow the PCV line to the back of the intake. Hard to tell if there is a hole in it or not. Maybe I can get a mirror back there. Does this pull out (pull straight back)? I'm afraid to pull on it if I'm not sure I can get it back in. You tell me what you think.
The original plugs had white deposits on the ground electrode. I have only taken one of the new autolites out (last night) because it looked so bad on the outside. This plug was a bit white too... just not a whole lot of deposits built up yet. White mean it is running lean.
What was next... oh yea... dialectric grease. I bought a tube of napa synthetic dialectric grease. Using a bunch inside the coil boot where it meets the spark plug.
Number 10/number 8 O-rings? One or both? Put this near the top of the rubber boot I assume to mate with the top of the spark plug "well" right? Too bad the stupid boot didn't do this already
What is that in the picture behind the throttle body? I don't recognize it. Is that the egr valve? Kinda afraid to crack that loose. If that is the egr valve, any tips for removing and cleaning?
I usually tape my extensions on so I can get them back off the plug and not leave the socket stuck to the plug.
I had a injector go bad before. Limps on startup but levels out once that cylinder is no longer flooded. It threw a code for cylinder 5. I moved the coil from 5 to 4 and the injector from 5 to 6, reset the code and waited for another code. The problem went to 6 so I replaced that injector.
Sorry for the long post, but you gave me a lot of info and I'm trying to cover it all.
Thanks.
I cleaned the mass air flow sensor this spring.
I'll look at the elbows. I didn't realize they can be pressed in to far. What happens when the are pressed in to far? I did follow the PCV line to the back of the intake. Hard to tell if there is a hole in it or not. Maybe I can get a mirror back there. Does this pull out (pull straight back)? I'm afraid to pull on it if I'm not sure I can get it back in. You tell me what you think.
The original plugs had white deposits on the ground electrode. I have only taken one of the new autolites out (last night) because it looked so bad on the outside. This plug was a bit white too... just not a whole lot of deposits built up yet. White mean it is running lean.
What was next... oh yea... dialectric grease. I bought a tube of napa synthetic dialectric grease. Using a bunch inside the coil boot where it meets the spark plug.
Number 10/number 8 O-rings? One or both? Put this near the top of the rubber boot I assume to mate with the top of the spark plug "well" right? Too bad the stupid boot didn't do this already
What is that in the picture behind the throttle body? I don't recognize it. Is that the egr valve? Kinda afraid to crack that loose. If that is the egr valve, any tips for removing and cleaning?
I usually tape my extensions on so I can get them back off the plug and not leave the socket stuck to the plug.
I had a injector go bad before. Limps on startup but levels out once that cylinder is no longer flooded. It threw a code for cylinder 5. I moved the coil from 5 to 4 and the injector from 5 to 6, reset the code and waited for another code. The problem went to 6 so I replaced that injector.
Sorry for the long post, but you gave me a lot of info and I'm trying to cover it all.
Thanks.
Jbrew:
Yes, please explain about the o-rings. First time I've seen them mentioned. Also, how does one specify the correct item? Do you have ID and thickness numbers, or P/N's to reference?
Also, I'm not sure about filling the holes with dielectric grease. It would be very difficult to get out of there when you needed to change plugs in the future, and by that time would be filled with grit and dirt. Granted it would help keep moisture out, but not sure of the trade-off.
Andy
Yes, please explain about the o-rings. First time I've seen them mentioned. Also, how does one specify the correct item? Do you have ID and thickness numbers, or P/N's to reference?
Also, I'm not sure about filling the holes with dielectric grease. It would be very difficult to get out of there when you needed to change plugs in the future, and by that time would be filled with grit and dirt. Granted it would help keep moisture out, but not sure of the trade-off.
Andy
I just got the O-ring kit - Sealing it off has been said before , just not that much. Bluegrass has the numbers / sizes I used what fit . The exact #'s - those are what I used..
You don't fill the chambers. I have the O-ring slid up high on the boot before install and then slide it down into the chamber flush to the top of the head , then grease - Not much grease is used , but it works great .
This was Bluegrass's innovation and it's a good one.
When driving in the rain , your going to have a mist inside the engine compartment no matter what you do , you can't prevent that - It can get heavy enough to compromise #4 and #8 depending how long you drive in it.
Moisture tends to pick on the weaker ones first tho , so , it's not just limited to the back two.. My theory anyway..
Anyway , It's worth the effort and by the time your ready for a plug change - it won't be grease anymore - what doesn't dissolve over time will transform into a rubbery plastic - peals off and isn't messy or full of foreign matter..
Think that covers it..
You don't fill the chambers. I have the O-ring slid up high on the boot before install and then slide it down into the chamber flush to the top of the head , then grease - Not much grease is used , but it works great .
This was Bluegrass's innovation and it's a good one.
When driving in the rain , your going to have a mist inside the engine compartment no matter what you do , you can't prevent that - It can get heavy enough to compromise #4 and #8 depending how long you drive in it.
Moisture tends to pick on the weaker ones first tho , so , it's not just limited to the back two.. My theory anyway..
Anyway , It's worth the effort and by the time your ready for a plug change - it won't be grease anymore - what doesn't dissolve over time will transform into a rubbery plastic - peals off and isn't messy or full of foreign matter..
Think that covers it..
Last edited by jbrew; Oct 4, 2007 at 02:12 PM.


