I want to switch to synthetic
why not 0w20?
While I have years of experience with the Amsoil 0w30, and it is a great lubricant, why not try the newest Amsoil, 0w20?
Amsoil 0w20 is currently running in 3 of the rigs I take care of and the lab reports are excellent.
I guess the bonus is that it is a 20 weight oil, which is what the truck recommends.
Hey, FWIW, a police officer friend of mine drives a GMC truck, uses Castrol Syntec 5w30, and Wix filters. He changes the oil every 10k and the oil filter every 5K. In 14 years, and 2 trucks, he's never ever had an oil problem.
In fact, the only reason he got the second rig is because he hit a bigass deer with the first one, which had about 300K miles on it. His latest truck is a 2004 I think, and it already has 60K miles. He's changed the oil 6 times only.
Just FYI.
Amsoil 0w20 is currently running in 3 of the rigs I take care of and the lab reports are excellent.
I guess the bonus is that it is a 20 weight oil, which is what the truck recommends.
Hey, FWIW, a police officer friend of mine drives a GMC truck, uses Castrol Syntec 5w30, and Wix filters. He changes the oil every 10k and the oil filter every 5K. In 14 years, and 2 trucks, he's never ever had an oil problem.
In fact, the only reason he got the second rig is because he hit a bigass deer with the first one, which had about 300K miles on it. His latest truck is a 2004 I think, and it already has 60K miles. He's changed the oil 6 times only.
Just FYI.
I have kinda been watching this thread and was wondering.... Realisticly an average guy driving average roads and whatnot. How long could he strech his oil changes out to with synthitic? How often would he change his filter?
There are too many variables to be able to give you a definitive answer. Years ago, when I was selling Amsoil, the "rule of thumb" was (assuming use of Amsoil oil and filter) 1 year or 15k, with a filter change and topup at 6 months/7500. This was when the rule of thumb with dino was 3 months/3k. Amsoil was always ester-based, a lot of today's "synthetics" are group 3 dino-based. At that time, Mobil 1 was glycol-based.
You also have to keep in mind that extended oil change intervals is only one factor in the use of synthetics. Synthetics were/are "slipperier" than dino (which "can" give you marginal gas mileage improvements), flow better at low temps, and break down at a higher temperature. Cold starts were/are less likely to be "dry" as the higher film strength makes the oil stick around on the bearings etc. better after shutdown. However, today's dinos and semi-synthetics are a lot closer to full synthetics in all these factors than they used to be.
I use synthetic to get the extended performance (marginal as it may be), not necessarily to extend my change interval. I've driven 30k in the past year and I've been running synthetic and changing it about every 7 to 9k. If I were using Amsoil, I'd be pushing it farther than that, but I've been using Valvoline and Mobil 1.
You also have to keep in mind that extended oil change intervals is only one factor in the use of synthetics. Synthetics were/are "slipperier" than dino (which "can" give you marginal gas mileage improvements), flow better at low temps, and break down at a higher temperature. Cold starts were/are less likely to be "dry" as the higher film strength makes the oil stick around on the bearings etc. better after shutdown. However, today's dinos and semi-synthetics are a lot closer to full synthetics in all these factors than they used to be.
I use synthetic to get the extended performance (marginal as it may be), not necessarily to extend my change interval. I've driven 30k in the past year and I've been running synthetic and changing it about every 7 to 9k. If I were using Amsoil, I'd be pushing it farther than that, but I've been using Valvoline and Mobil 1.
I too am in Alberta and gearing up for winter. A couple weeks ago i did the swap to synthetic in my truck. I decided to go with royal purple and just got what the truck said (5w20 i think). Before the truck use to make a little bit of noise for the first second after you started it but ever since the swap it seems to be quiet.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic oil in my vehicles and always ha
ve. I still change my oil every 3k miles tho. Most will say you can go alot longer without changing it but its just added insurance to me. I know one thing I am never going to hear from my mechanic "well theres your problem, you changed oil too much."
ve. I still change my oil every 3k miles tho. Most will say you can go alot longer without changing it but its just added insurance to me. I know one thing I am never going to hear from my mechanic "well theres your problem, you changed oil too much."
Originally Posted by grayday
I run Mobil 1 synthetic oil in my vehicles and always ha
ve. I still change my oil every 3k miles tho. Most will say you can go alot longer without changing it but its just added insurance to me. I know one thing I am never going to hear from my mechanic "well theres your problem, you changed oil too much."
ve. I still change my oil every 3k miles tho. Most will say you can go alot longer without changing it but its just added insurance to me. I know one thing I am never going to hear from my mechanic "well theres your problem, you changed oil too much."
Fasteel, it will depend on your weather up there and your cold startup temps. If you have a normal startup temp of zero or below, use a PAO type synthetic or ester based. You won't find these at Walmart and not all synthetics are the same basestock. If you decide to use a synthetic and have these kinds of temps, you have a decision to make- stay in warranty or take a chance. Amsoils most popular oils are PAO based but are not API certified which is critical should you have an oil related failure in your engine. The oil is good, Amsoils claims are a little over the top though. If you use Amsoil, use their Ea oil filter and providing you don't put over 25,000 miles on it over the winter you should be fine. Royal Purple is a PAO basestocked oil but it is not for extended drains and frankly doesn't do well in analysis. That leaves Redline which is ester based. Redline is also not for extended drains but holds up fairly good in the 5w-30 rated oil. Otherwise, most of the standard 5w-20 oils will still pump at -35F but it will be like honey until it warms up. Not exactly ideal for the cams.
Since Norm reads these posts, do you have any info on the newer Signature Series? The website doesn't give much info and I just heard about these yesterday. I'd love to see a technical breakdown on these or even a VOA.
FWIW, I use Havoline 5w-20 in my 4.6 and change at 7500 miles. Analysis says there is still life in the oil and wear metals are below universal averages by a lot. I also don't have artic conditions but extreme heat is common.
Since Norm reads these posts, do you have any info on the newer Signature Series? The website doesn't give much info and I just heard about these yesterday. I'd love to see a technical breakdown on these or even a VOA.
FWIW, I use Havoline 5w-20 in my 4.6 and change at 7500 miles. Analysis says there is still life in the oil and wear metals are below universal averages by a lot. I also don't have artic conditions but extreme heat is common.
I have never used Amsoil myself though I have hear much about it. I got tired of trying to find a place around here to take my old oil so now I just go to the dealership and get it done. So I just use the 5w-20 synthetic blend motorcraft oil.
Last edited by dewalt17; Oct 2, 2007 at 11:27 PM.





