Thanks guys,

I gapped the spark plug to .54 mm. We'll see how that turns out.

so far the changes I made this morning from the original setup was:

Changed Fuel Filter

Swapped #1 and #2 COP (with the COP in #2 being the "New" COP)

Gapped the New Motorcraft platinum Spark Plug to .54mm instead of the factory .40

Cleared the CES codes (by taking the + off the battery for 10 minutes)

and, put Dielectric Grease on all connectors and boots...


Anything else?

About ready to go to church so let's see how this works and if it shoots me a code.. and if it is a code, i hope its a P0302 code so that I isolate the "New" COP from Autozone...

-Chris

 

Chris
when you gapped .054 instead of the facotry .040? Double check to see what your sticker says under you hood? Where is the 0.40 number coming from? The sticker under the hood? I would just double check to see what that sticker says under th hood. Good luck.

MP

 

satexas,

the .54 coms from the number under the hood. After looking, my sticker under the hood says .52 - .56mm on the plug gap.

The .40 was what the new spark plug was set at when I bought it.

-Chris

 

. I just changed all my cop's and plugs on my 01 f-150 screw 5.4L after chasing a misfire and it runs like a new truck. Hop you get yours figured out and running like new again.

MP

 

Well, you see often, one goes about this thinking there is a single issue and one fault.
The mind gets fixed and not looking at the bigger picture and so the party goes on until you begin to see the bigger picture.
Been there before.
Coils in these truck are a b*tch at times.

 

well guys!,

I think I have isolated the problem.

On my way to church this morning, less than 3 miles and the CES light predictably comes back on (predictable because the truck is still missing/sputtering/stuttering).

I just got back from AutoZone and I NOW HAVE A P0302 code! SWEEET! The misfire has went from #1 cylinder to #2 Cylinder (chasing the new COP that I replaced because #1 was giving me a misfire)

I am 98% positive it is the "NEW" COP that I bought 3 days ago.

The AutoZone guy informed me that at his mechanic job and there at the store people have been bringing them back because they were bad. He recommended just getting one from the ford dealer and to bring the COP back and get my 54.00 refund. VERY helpful guy.

How can these guys keep selling this model COP for Ford vehicles and Autozone/O'Reilley's etc keep selling them..?

I'll let you know how the truck runs with the next "New" COP from Ford.
Has anyone gotten one from NAPA? They are supposed to have a littler bit better grade of products aren't they?

Thanks guys!

-Chris

 

Hello, first post here. I bought a 98 F-150 with the 4.6l about 2 months ago and I'm having similar issues. I would have started my own thread, but felt this was very relevant and decided to post it here.

Not to take the focus away from Mr. Luttrell's issue, I am also getting a flashing check engine light. The check engine light has been on steady since I bought the truck, and the owner before me informed me that he took it to autozone to have it scanned and told me "cylinder 2 was running lean." I don't know how much I trust this fellow's information to be accurate, but it might be a good indication of where to start.

Just this morning the check engine light started flashing for the first time, and after checking my manual and reading this thread I also believe I have a misfire.

Again, after reading the thread I have some good ideas about where to start on this, however, I don't know what a "COP" is. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but can someone shed some light on this?

I plan on checking the injectors, checking the plugs, their gaps, and checking /replacing COP's as long as someone can tell me what they are. Any additional help or advice would be appreciated.

 

Snake,

A COP stands for Coil On Plug. It is the Black Round "Coil" that sits directly on top of the Spark Plug. Well, let me refrase that, it sits on top of the "Boot" (long rubber elephant trunk") that has a spring inside it that sits on top of the plug to deliver its spark.

They are not hard to replace. At least #1 and #2 aren't, but I'm sure #3,4,7,8 would be a B**tch to get to.

If you have the original ones you will notice they say MOTORCRAFT on top of them when looking on each side of the engine.

You can read through this post and see what I have done and take it from there.


-Chris

 

Ok, I did some poking around out there and figured out a few things. I definitely don't think it's the injectors, as I checked the injector on 1 and 2 to see if I could hear the clicking, and I could. I also tried unplugging them while the truck was idling, and there was a noticable drop in idle rpm. So this is probably not the problem.

Moving on, I took the plug wire off of the spark plug on cylinder 2. We stuck a screwdriver in the wire or COP while the engine was running and noticed we were getting spark. I don't know if this is a good indication or not if this is working properly, how much spark is something I unfortanetly don't know how to determine. I do know what a COP is thanks to your explanation and just plain sticking my head in there.

The one thing I am stumped on is how to get the plugs out. I was very surprised to find that deep hole where they are located. Is a special socket needed for this? What size socket do you need for the plugs? Any tips on how to get them out would be appreciated. It looks rather impossible but you made it sound pretty easy...

 

There is a spark plug socket that contains a rubber grommet in it that will allow you to pull the plug out. It is a 5/8th I believe.

You can not tell just by seeing if there is spark on the coil, because I have always had spark from each of the COP's , I'm sure it has something to do with the Voltage of the spark and not the spark itself when the COP goes bad....

-Chris

 

William , Glad you found the problem . Snake has a different ignition than you have .. He has "Coil Packs" 2 Four bank packs.

COP's are $12 apiece at this site and come with a one year warranty -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...mZ160094421008

These are the same COP's that you'll get at the dealership ..Quite a few people on this site order from Global..

 

jbrew, satexas, flareside, all who responded...

I sure would like to get my hopes up, but only changing out the COP will tell if it's really fixed.......

I'll keep you posted.... still, hats off.... F-150 online is a remarkeabley valueable site.....

-Chris

 

William, I recommend you replace all 8 COPs. When one goes, the rest are not far behind. For the price of less than 2 Ford COPs from the dealer, you can get a full set from Global.

 

Guys,

I am going to replace them all at the same time...

I think these are the ones off ebay (Global Automotive)that I need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...mZ160153725497

But, I do have a question. It lists a 2001 F-150 4.6L V8 , but what does the VIN = W mean?

-Chris

 

COP's are pretty versatile, those will work too -- DG508's - any DG508 will work . Mine came from a crown vic motor - So did my Type 3 injectors and wire harness .. All from one ebay transaction, The seller was parting out a Romeo 4six crate motor .. All that stuff for $165.00 and it was new.

Watch ebay for the deals , they have some good ones once in awhile..