If your going to test compression - before you hook that up , unbolt the COP - Don't disconnect. - Clean up an old plug and install inside the COP . Throw a couple alligator clamps on a piece of wire . Connect one end to that big bolt protruding from the front of your motor over by your CPS. Connect the other clamp to your plug - fire up the truck - check the spark..See what, if anything is goin on there..

 

The answer to all 4 questions is no.
Reason is none of them could rarely be cylinder specific.
For one cylinder to have a problem , it has to be ;
Plug, coil, injector, PCM coil driver, or cylinder machanics and sometimes an air leak in the intake runner to that cylinder that may not upset other cylinders enough to be detected as a general lean code.
The cylinder detection is done on a rotation time basis and compaired to a table.
If rotation time goes above the limits "long enough" (number of times), a decision is made that it is a missfire (for whatever reason) and sets a code and lamp.
To go on a bit deeper, if it is an ignition failure, fuel is still being injected into the cylinder and pumped thru to the cats and detected there as possibily an increase in heating the cat. This possibility sets a flashing ses lamp telling you of the condition.
If a fuel injector blocks or fails in some way, a dry miss becomes the fault with no flashing lamp.
Either condition is a loss of power as detected by the monitor for that cylinder.
You just have to seperate out how the fault is occurring.
Often times people tend to think these things are more simple than they are because there is more than one action going on at the same time and the monitor can't tell specificlly which is the real problem.
Said using another example, when you go see your MD with a problem, he/she asks you questions then makes some observations in order to make a decision on how to make the treatment a fix but sometimes has to revisit it, if the wrong decision was made the first time.

 

what does it mean when the Check Engine light starts blinking?

 

That only one means one thing - MISFIRE !!!




Go to the Zone for a free reading - you have a code stored (even if you don't have a light on , the scanner will pick it up now)

The blinking light set a code for you..

 

I should have gone a bit further and said the flashing lamp is an extra warning not to keep driving the vehichle because the cats are burning the fuel that should have been combusted in the cylinder.
This can overheat the cats and distroy them, costing a lot more to replace than fixing a cylinder miss.
If that happens, the cats are no longer converting emissions to the low levels intended, and in violation of state law in most places, and federal law.
Some may disagree but even where there is no emissions law it is still a violatoin to alter a vehichle that was designed with these emission controls from the mfger even though it is rarely ever enforced because there is no enforcement to do so.

 

JBREW, would this code be different from the P0301 that I already have?

So have we decided that since I have a flashing CES light that it definatly is a misfire in #1 cylinder where I am not getting spark and therefore exhausting gas to the cats where it is being ignited there?

Since I have changed the plug, the COP boot, and the COP itself is it thought to be a valve spring problem?

Thanks guys for all your help, I would love to get this fixed, not driving the truck is not an option for me...work/school/kids/ etc....

-Chris

 

If you have no spark, check the voltage- make sure its not s short , if you have voltage required at the connector - replace COP.

That flashing cell is most likley 301 - specially if you tested for spark (I think that's what your saying- you did test and no spark right?)

Yea, trace the prob - that should be pretty easy on 1.

 

I have spark, I can see spark hitting the chassis with the coil and boot pulled off the plug.

Thats why this has me so stumped.

I have spark.
I have replaced the COP.
I have replaced the COP boot.
I have replaced the plug.
I have tested the injector.

I don't know what to test or replace next..

 

The COP failing under a load - COPs can be fine and pass Primary and secondary testing all day long and still be bad ....

That's because it's failing under a load. - If your injectors fine , then it's the COP most likey. If you purchased a new COP - theres still a pretty good chance it's bad.

Your not really suppose to move COP's around to test on other cylinders , BUT, in this case I would swap #1 with #2 , reset the PCM and wait until you get another blinking light and have the code read.

If it says PO302 - Then it's definitly the COP.

 

What the hell? So I'm just "OUT" the 50.00 from Autozone for a COP, since I KNOW they aint taking that one back if this scenario plays out to be true.

I'll swap the COP's tomorrow morning and see what that does.

thanks guys!

I'll write more when I know something else...

-Chris

 

They will refund your money...

COP's can and have been a drawn out PITA drama for quite a few people and me as well, way back when .

Personally seeing this as much as I have , when you start to have problems like this with your ignition system, chances are your COP system is getting tired and you seam to be at the beginning stages.

I suggest in the near future, after you fix this problem, replace all your COP's at the same time. That way you keep the integrity of your ignition system in tact. This is the best tune up for these motors and it's best to replace the plugs as well for the best results.

COP's are cheap ($96 for all 8 together) and come with a 1 year warranty if you know where to purchase.

Good Luck.

 

guys,

This morning (9/2) I'm chainging out the fuel filter (mostly because the truck has 115,000 on it and want to see what the inside of it looks like),

and, I'm checking the new spark plug that i put in for the correct gap (although its suppose to be gapped at the factory),

and, I'm swapping #1 COP and #2 COP and clearing the CES light to see if I get a P0302 code.

anyone else think of anything while im under the hood, it's beautiful outside and am not sweating my ***** off just yet.

-Chris

 

Guys!

What is the gap suppose to be for a 2001 4.6L F-150? I have .40 inches/ 1.0 mm on the one I have now.....

my bad, it's a Motorcraft Single Platinum plug..


-Chris

 

The gap should be on the sticker under the hood.

 

My Manual shows on the gap, I think I used .054, good luck: