It has been a couple of years, but I don't recall needing any special tools.

 

You'll need some special tools to lock the camshaft in place to keep it from turning when you remove the timing chain, should be available at most auto parts stores. There's also a special set of wrenches for removing the fan assembly, which you'll have to do in order to get the timing cover off. I'm having to replace a head on my 4.6. I didn't worry about the camshaft tool because I'm replacing a head, but the fan clutch wrenches was a must. You'll also need a puller to remove the crank pulley. You'll have to use the kind with the bolts that thread into the holes on the pulley, not the kind with the jaws. I've already got mine tore apart, but I can still take some pics and post if anybody wants any, and I can go into more detail about the steps involved if needed.

 

If you have the timing instructions, you don't need the camshaft tools. Those instructions are all over the 4.6 mustang/crown vic sites.

Even if you had the camshaft locks, I think it would be good to have the timing instructions in case something slipped or went wrong. Timing the modular engine is pretty straightforward.

 

since you're offering. i'd be interested

 

Since I've already got started, I won't be able to take pics of the tear down step by step(de de dee). But here's some pics of where I'm at now.


This is the engine in the truck now, just waiting for another head. I only had to replace the left side.


Here's the head I pulled.


See the problem? I know the pic is very bright, but there's a 1/4 in. hole just under the thermostat housing, and the waterway inside is eaten up pretty bad.


This is the inside of the waterway, can't really tell much, but it's like the aluminum has been eaten away and chunks have just come out. There's actually another hole on the inside but it just goes into the adjacent water jacket.

I got another set of heads off an 03 mustang today, same casting number. I'm havin to wait on the parts store to get all the gaskets I need and then I'll get started and document the reassembly the best I can. Anybody need any specific pics or info, just ask, I'll do my best.

 

Great Documentation!!

When you get the gaskets , you'll wanna double check them against you old ones or you may get set back on more time.

Ford moved the dowel pin locations around allot - Personally I have yet to get the right gaskets first time around..

 

Nope, I got it the first time. Felpro gasket, which is a lot thicker than the original, I hope that doesn't affect anything. I've gotten it bolted up and the timing chain back on, as soon as get done with everything else, I'll post the pics.

 

Ok, I'm not done, but here's a small update.


Got the head on, finally. I actually broke the bolt that holds the cam gear on trying to torque it down. Hayne's says between 81-95 ft/lbs and i was set on 90 and it snapped off. Had to get the bolt from the old head.


After I got the timing chain back on. It was tricky trying to lock the tensioner to install it.


And the timing cover. I ended up putting the bottom bolts that go into the oil pan in first, seemed to make it easier.


And finally some clean valve covers. You can really tell a difference between the new and old head. Tomorrow I'm gonna get all the lines and wires out of the way and run a wire brush over it to clean it up real good.

 

The cam gear bolts are Torque to Yield like the harmonic balancer bolt, and are the same PN. They should be torqued only once and then replaced with new.

 

Yea, def not doing that. Replacing my oil lines and shipping the pig... Thanks for the pics though.

 

here's how far i am..



anyone have a trick for getting out bolts 9 and 10 in the back of the intake manifold?

 

9 & 10 are easy - get that damn TB & Elbow out of the way

Hey , it's a good idea to replace these O-rings while your in there.. -

 

Check for damage around the water jackets - Carquest has this aluminum filler that works freakin awesome for head repairs like this -

 

9 and 10 are easy? the ones all the way up near the firewall? and also, is the TB gasket reusable?

 

Honestly , yes and the 5.4 has a little less room thean the 4six - I never had probs with em - But when I pull the manifold , I get everything out of the way - Hell , I remove the harness , fuse cradle (175amp) Throttle body definitly . I never use a gasket, - -elbow to manifold - Black RTV sealent works the best there..


I test w/propane - that RTV High Heat Black is some good chit - Never a leak..

Looks like your heater core lines are in the way - Push those tabs together, then push the line towards the wall and yank back -hard - they'll come off...